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2005 Wakesetter VLX - V-Drive & Manual Wedge Issues


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I'm new to the sight and this is my first post.

I'm about to buy a 2005 Wakesetter VLX and while having it checked out, I was told it had a leak in the V-Drive area. ($600.00 fix)

Dealer (who was NOT trying to sell me new / alternative boat told me to look at 2006 or newer because 2005's had issues witht eh V-Drive and with the manualk wedge breaking.

Anybody heard of these issues and how significant are they?

Thanks much in advance for the replies.

DRP

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Definitely a significant problem with the manual wedge breaking in 2004. I don't know about 2005. If the wing is bolted to the strut with three bolts per side instead of two, it should be ok. I'm calling shenanigans on the V drive leak. My boat had 850 leak-free hours on it when I sold it.

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The only problem I've heard about with the wedge was bolts being loose and backing out then of course it would bend.

If the bolts are secure the wedge shouldn't have a problem correct ?

My wedge is fine, but I have checked the bolts after I heard that some others came loose and caused damage.

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The only problem I've heard about with the wedge was bolts being loose and backing out then of course it would bend.

If the bolts are secure the wedge shouldn't have a problem correct ?

My wedge is fine, but I have checked the bolts after I heard that some others came loose and caused damage.

The bolts on my wedge did not come loose.............they snapped. Then the "super strong" replacement bolts snapped. The three bolt wing is way better.

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I have nearly 400hrs on my '05 VLX and had one small leak on the bottom of the V-drive. It is fix that a person with moderate mechanical skills can fix.

The v-drive case has a removable cover plate on the bottom side that some times leak if the old gasket becomes dry and cracks. Remove the cover plate and clean up the surfaces and real it with a form in place gasket seal.

Luckily I have never had any issues with my wedge bolts snapping or becoming loose. However I do look over the wedge and bolts every time I put the boat in/out of the water.

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I have nearly 400hrs on my '05 VLX and had one small leak on the bottom of the V-drive. It is fix that a person with moderate mechanical skills can fix.

The v-drive case has a removable cover plate on the bottom side that some times leak if the old gasket becomes dry and cracks. Remove the cover plate and clean up the surfaces and real it with a form in place gasket seal.

Luckily I have never had any issues with my wedge bolts snapping or becoming loose. However I do look over the wedge and bolts every time I put the boat in/out of the water.

Thanks Woody (and to everyone else who replied to me, appreciate it) Re: Removable cover plate on bottome of V-Drive, this is exactly the issue (after further discussion with repair guy). He said the $600 repair cost is because they need tolift out floor and lift up gas tank to get to it. Does this sound right? I consider myself moderate reapir person. Question is, how to do I get to the cover plate without moving floor and gas tank???

Now, unfortunately, my next post will deal with my broken wedge... :-(

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I have nearly 400hrs on my '05 VLX and had one small leak on the bottom of the V-drive. It is fix that a person with moderate mechanical skills can fix.

The v-drive case has a removable cover plate on the bottom side that some times leak if the old gasket becomes dry and cracks. Remove the cover plate and clean up the surfaces and real it with a form in place gasket seal.

Luckily I have never had any issues with my wedge bolts snapping or becoming loose. However I do look over the wedge and bolts every time I put the boat in/out of the water.

Thanks Woody (and to everyone else who replied to me, appreciate it) Re: Removable cover plate on bottome of V-Drive, this is exactly the issue (after further discussion with repair guy). He said the $600 repair cost is because they need tolift out floor and lift up gas tank to get to it. Does this sound right? I consider myself moderate reapir person. Question is, how to do I get to the cover plate without moving floor and gas tank???

Now, unfortunately, my next post will deal with my broken wedge... :-(

He is ripping you off.

The floorboard and the gas tank do not need to come out of the boat to reseal the v-drive. You can do the repair with the gas tank and floor in place.

Pull the center rear cushion and you have access to the v-drive. You just have to be work somewhat blind, but you just need to remove the 4-6 bolts (I can't remember the exact amount) and the bottom plate just comes off. After the plate comes off, clean the area/surface very well and use a form in place anaerobic gasket maker by permatex (PX # 51813). It costs about $12.

I re-sealed my in just 2 hours.

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I have nearly 400hrs on my '05 VLX and had one small leak on the bottom of the V-drive. It is fix that a person with moderate mechanical skills can fix.

The v-drive case has a removable cover plate on the bottom side that some times leak if the old gasket becomes dry and cracks. Remove the cover plate and clean up the surfaces and real it with a form in place gasket seal.

Luckily I have never had any issues with my wedge bolts snapping or becoming loose. However I do look over the wedge and bolts every time I put the boat in/out of the water.

Thanks Woody (and to everyone else who replied to me, appreciate it) Re: Removable cover plate on bottome of V-Drive, this is exactly the issue (after further discussion with repair guy). He said the $600 repair cost is because they need tolift out floor and lift up gas tank to get to it. Does this sound right? I consider myself moderate reapir person. Question is, how to do I get to the cover plate without moving floor and gas tank???

Now, unfortunately, my next post will deal with my broken wedge... :-(

He is ripping you off.

The floorboard and the gas tank do not need to come out of the boat to reseal the v-drive. You can do the repair with the gas tank and floor in place.

Pull the center rear cushion and you have access to the v-drive. You just have to be work somewhat blind, but you just need to remove the 4-6 bolts (I can't remember the exact amount) and the bottom plate just comes off. After the plate comes off, clean the area/surface very well and use a form in place anaerobic gasket maker by permatex (PX # 51813). It costs about $12.

I re-sealed my in just 2 hours.

Thanks again, Woody. I'll give it a try. (I also found a VERY mechanically inclined friend who offered to help.) It looks like I will keep a close eye on it and try to make it through the season. Will do the repair then. Thanks again for the help.

DPR

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