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Larger Through Hull?


Jimmypooh

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I was wondering if anyone has found a good through Hull fitting to use that would work with the Tsunami's 1-1/8" fitting. Also what shut-off valve did you use? I'm thinking about putting some plug and play in my VLX similar to what the Axis has now. I figured I would take advantage of the high flow of the Tsunami if I could.

My searches have brought back plastic fittings and ones that leave a part on the bottom of the hull such as here and here. Is that normal? If so wouldn't I need a fitting that has the correct threads on top to allow the Tsunami thread into it?

Edit: Does anyone know how well the integrated Bow Sac works on the 06 VLX?

tn_Integrated-Bow_W711.jpg

Edited by Jimmypooh
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I was wondering if anyone has found a good through Hull fitting to use that would work with the Tsunami's 1-1/8" fitting. Also what shut-off valve did you use? I'm thinking about putting some plug and play in my VLX similar to what the Axis has now. I figured I would take advantage of the high flow of the Tsunami if I could.

My searches have brought back plastic fittings and ones that leave a part on the bottom of the hull such as here and here. Is that normal? If so wouldn't I need a fitting that has the correct threads on top to allow the Tsunami thread into it?

Good question, I would like to know the answer to this also.

Edited by txwakejunkie
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Not sure what threads are on the pumps you're looking at, but a nice catalog is here

On page 16 you can even find the long lost 90 degree turndown exhausts, I have a set on order.

-Chris

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I was wondering if anyone has found a good through Hull fitting to use that would work with the Tsunami's 1-1/8" fitting. Also what shut-off valve did you use? I'm thinking about putting some plug and play in my VLX similar to what the Axis has now. I figured I would take advantage of the high flow of the Tsunami if I could.

My searches have brought back plastic fittings and ones that leave a part on the bottom of the hull such as here and here. Is that normal? If so wouldn't I need a fitting that has the correct threads on top to allow the Tsunami thread into it?

Edit: Does anyone know how well the integrated Bow Sac works on the 06 VLX?

tn_Integrated-Bow_W711.jpg

I am planning the same thing. I searched and could only find the W747 Fly High adapter to convert the 1-1/8" fitting on the pump to a 3/4". Here is my design: Malibu VLX Ballast Design (this shows the stock hard tanks as well)

I will use 3/4" thru hulls, 3/4" valves & the Fly High W747 adapter to connect the 1-1/8" inlet connection of the pump. I called Attwood to discuss this design, and they assured me that going with the 3/4" thru hull will not significantly impact the performance of the pump because the water is being forced through the thru hull because it is below the water line. With that pressure and the draw of the pump, there will be plenty of flow.

For the output, I will just use a very short 1-1/8" bilge hose connected to the 1-1/8" to 1" barb adapter to get to the 1" tubing I will use to connect to the Fly High quick disconnects to the bag.

For the drain side pumps, I will just do a similar type of connection on the input side of the pump - 1-1/8" hose to barb adapter to 1" hose - so that I can use the Fly High quick disconnects on the bag. I could use the W747 again, but it wouldn't be a quick disconnect.

I will drill new 1" thru hulls on either side of the boat for the new drains. I will put vented loops in the fill and drain lines to stop auto filling and draining (siphoning) of the bags.

My boat is at our place up north. I am going up next weekend to check out how many switches I have available. If I don't have 2, I will buy the stereo remote bracket that attaches under the dash and has 2 spots for switches. I will then buy the stereo remote and wire it to the stereo.

Something a little goofy on my boat ('07 VLX) is that the stock starboard and center tank fill pumps are on a tee sharing a single 3/4" thru hull. I plan on moving one to a new thru hull. Therefore, I will drill 3 new 3/4" thru hulls: (1) to move the center fill pump to it's own thru hull & (2) for the fill pumps for the bags, which will be the Fly High W707 750# put into the rear lockers.

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The Tsunami pump uses 1 1/8" straight taper threads, something that doesn't exist anywhere else. Your best option is to go with a 1" - 1 1/2" (depending on how many bags you will be filling off of it) brass scoop intake, and then use w747 to connect your Tsunami pumps to 3/4" NPT PVC fittings that go to the 1 1/2" thru-hull.

Contact me if you need a source for any of this stuff.

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The Tsunami pump uses 1 1/8" straight taper threads, something that doesn't exist anywhere else. Your best option is to go with a 1" - 1 1/2" (depending on how many bags you will be filling off of it) brass scoop intake, and then use w747 to connect your Tsunami pumps to 3/4" NPT PVC fittings that go to the 1 1/2" thru-hull.

Contact me if you need a source for any of this stuff.

Will the W747 not thread directly to the 3/4" thru hull? I am planning on using the exact same thru hulls that Malibu uses, which are really just garboard drains. I don't have any of the W747 to see if it will thread directly to the thru hull. Anyone tried this?

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Yes, the W747 will thread directly into the standard bilge drain thru-hull fitting that Malibu uses. You'll want to use a 3/4" brass ball valve before the fittings and pump so that if anything happens (the pump housing cracks for example) you have a way to shut off the flow of water.

The only reason I recommended a scupper thru-hull is that they will allow for more flow if you have multiple pumps connected to one source (not a problem in your case), and because they fill better at speed without air-locking.

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Edit: Does anyone know how well the integrated Bow Sac works on the 06 VLX?

tn_Integrated-Bow_W711.jpg

Jimmy, does your boat have qMLS installed or standard seating in the bow? I'm assuming it doesn't have the bow ballast tank if you're considering the Open Bow Sac, in which case it should work really well. You won't be able to quite fill the bag, but it will allow you get as much weight as possible in the available area under the seats, which is exactly what you want.

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I was wondering if anyone has found a good through Hull fitting to use that would work with the Tsunami's 1-1/8" fitting. Also what shut-off valve did you use? I'm thinking about putting some plug and play in my VLX similar to what the Axis has now. I figured I would take advantage of the high flow of the Tsunami if I could.

My searches have brought back plastic fittings and ones that leave a part on the bottom of the hull such as here and here. Is that normal? If so wouldn't I need a fitting that has the correct threads on top to allow the Tsunami thread into it?

Edit: Does anyone know how well the integrated Bow Sac works on the 06 VLX?

tn_Integrated-Bow_W711.jpg

I am planning the same thing. I searched and could only find the W747 Fly High adapter to convert the 1-1/8" fitting on the pump to a 3/4". Here is my design: Malibu VLX Ballast Design (this shows the stock hard tanks as well)

I will use 3/4" thru hulls, 3/4" valves & the Fly High W747 adapter to connect the 1-1/8" inlet connection of the pump. I called Attwood to discuss this design, and they assured me that going with the 3/4" thru hull will not significantly impact the performance of the pump because the water is being forced through the thru hull because it is below the water line. With that pressure and the draw of the pump, there will be plenty of flow.

For the output, I will just use a very short 1-1/8" bilge hose connected to the 1-1/8" to 1" barb adapter to get to the 1" tubing I will use to connect to the Fly High quick disconnects to the bag.

For the drain side pumps, I will just do a similar type of connection on the input side of the pump - 1-1/8" hose to barb adapter to 1" hose - so that I can use the Fly High quick disconnects on the bag. I could use the W747 again, but it wouldn't be a quick disconnect.

I will drill new 1" thru hulls on either side of the boat for the new drains. I will put vented loops in the fill and drain lines to stop auto filling and draining (siphoning) of the bags.

My boat is at our place up north. I am going up next weekend to check out how many switches I have available. If I don't have 2, I will buy the stereo remote bracket that attaches under the dash and has 2 spots for switches. I will then buy the stereo remote and wire it to the stereo.

Something a little goofy on my boat ('07 VLX) is that the stock starboard and center tank fill pumps are on a tee sharing a single 3/4" thru hull. I plan on moving one to a new thru hull. Therefore, I will drill 3 new 3/4" thru hulls: (1) to move the center fill pump to it's own thru hull & (2) for the fill pumps for the bags, which will be the Fly High W707 750# put into the rear lockers.

How much do you think this will cost you? Everything looks good really good. The only thing I'm not excited about is the vented loops cost nearly the same as the pumps on wakeside. That seems a little out there. I did find some 1-1/2 for a little less on some other sites. I wonder if those could be used?

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Pricing will depend on where you order the parts from, including the bags and pumps, plan on spending somewhere around $1000 for everything. Vented loops do not need to be used on the drain hose, for that side of the bag putting a large (10" diameter) loop in the hose is sufficient to prevent siphoning.

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Edit: Does anyone know how well the integrated Bow Sac works on the 06 VLX?

tn_Integrated-Bow_W711.jpg

Jimmy, does your boat have qMLS installed or standard seating in the bow? I'm assuming it doesn't have the bow ballast tank if you're considering the Open Bow Sac, in which case it should work really well. You won't be able to quite fill the bag, but it will allow you get as much weight as possible in the available area under the seats, which is exactly what you want.

I assume by qMLS you mean the front MLS? I don't have the front MLS, no. I wish I did or wish that you could retro fit the boat with the OEM hard tank. I've been told it's not possible. I assume I have standard seating. How would I know the difference? Does the standard front ballast fit below the floor or just under the seats? Maybe that is where I'm confused. Currently I have room under the front seats (for anchor, vests, and such).

Thanks for the help so far!

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I was wondering if anyone has found a good through Hull fitting to use that would work with the Tsunami's 1-1/8" fitting. Also what shut-off valve did you use? I'm thinking about putting some plug and play in my VLX similar to what the Axis has now. I figured I would take advantage of the high flow of the Tsunami if I could.

My searches have brought back plastic fittings and ones that leave a part on the bottom of the hull such as here and here. Is that normal? If so wouldn't I need a fitting that has the correct threads on top to allow the Tsunami thread into it?

Edit: Does anyone know how well the integrated Bow Sac works on the 06 VLX?

tn_Integrated-Bow_W711.jpg

I am planning the same thing. I searched and could only find the W747 Fly High adapter to convert the 1-1/8" fitting on the pump to a 3/4". Here is my design: Malibu VLX Ballast Design (this shows the stock hard tanks as well)

I will use 3/4" thru hulls, 3/4" valves & the Fly High W747 adapter to connect the 1-1/8" inlet connection of the pump. I called Attwood to discuss this design, and they assured me that going with the 3/4" thru hull will not significantly impact the performance of the pump because the water is being forced through the thru hull because it is below the water line. With that pressure and the draw of the pump, there will be plenty of flow.

For the output, I will just use a very short 1-1/8" bilge hose connected to the 1-1/8" to 1" barb adapter to get to the 1" tubing I will use to connect to the Fly High quick disconnects to the bag.

For the drain side pumps, I will just do a similar type of connection on the input side of the pump - 1-1/8" hose to barb adapter to 1" hose - so that I can use the Fly High quick disconnects on the bag. I could use the W747 again, but it wouldn't be a quick disconnect.

I will drill new 1" thru hulls on either side of the boat for the new drains. I will put vented loops in the fill and drain lines to stop auto filling and draining (siphoning) of the bags.

My boat is at our place up north. I am going up next weekend to check out how many switches I have available. If I don't have 2, I will buy the stereo remote bracket that attaches under the dash and has 2 spots for switches. I will then buy the stereo remote and wire it to the stereo.

Something a little goofy on my boat ('07 VLX) is that the stock starboard and center tank fill pumps are on a tee sharing a single 3/4" thru hull. I plan on moving one to a new thru hull. Therefore, I will drill 3 new 3/4" thru hulls: (1) to move the center fill pump to it's own thru hull & (2) for the fill pumps for the bags, which will be the Fly High W707 750# put into the rear lockers.

How much do you think this will cost you? Everything looks good really good. The only thing I'm not excited about is the vented loops cost nearly the same as the pumps on wakeside. That seems a little out there. I did find some 1-1/2 for a little less on some other sites. I wonder if those could be used?

West marine has the vented loops for a third of what bakes wants for them.

Link to comment
Edit: Does anyone know how well the integrated Bow Sac works on the 06 VLX?

tn_Integrated-Bow_W711.jpg

Jimmy, does your boat have qMLS installed or standard seating in the bow? I'm assuming it doesn't have the bow ballast tank if you're considering the Open Bow Sac, in which case it should work really well. You won't be able to quite fill the bag, but it will allow you get as much weight as possible in the available area under the seats, which is exactly what you want.

I assume by qMLS you mean the front MLS? I don't have the front MLS, no. I wish I did or wish that you could retro fit the boat with the OEM hard tank. I've been told it's not possible. I assume I have standard seating. How would I know the difference? Does the standard front ballast fit below the floor or just under the seats? Maybe that is where I'm confused. Currently I have room under the front seats (for anchor, vests, and such).

Thanks for the help so far!

Sorry, I should have been more specific. Yes, qMLS is what Malibu called the four (quad) ballast upgrade on the VLX. Unfortunately it's not retrofittable on the '05-'08 VLX because that boat uses a different deck mold for boats that have the bow ballast option. If your boat has the tank in front you lose all of the storage space under the front seats, and the bow becomes a playpen style arrangement with four removable cushions and a carpeted trim panel over the ballast tank. You definitely have the standard walk-through style bow seating which has storage under the seats and can be turned into a playpen arrangement with the included filler cushion.

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I was wondering if anyone has found a good through Hull fitting to use that would work with the Tsunami's 1-1/8" fitting. Also what shut-off valve did you use? I'm thinking about putting some plug and play in my VLX similar to what the Axis has now. I figured I would take advantage of the high flow of the Tsunami if I could.

My searches have brought back plastic fittings and ones that leave a part on the bottom of the hull such as here and here. Is that normal? If so wouldn't I need a fitting that has the correct threads on top to allow the Tsunami thread into it?

Edit: Does anyone know how well the integrated Bow Sac works on the 06 VLX?

tn_Integrated-Bow_W711.jpg

I am planning the same thing. I searched and could only find the W747 Fly High adapter to convert the 1-1/8" fitting on the pump to a 3/4". Here is my design: Malibu VLX Ballast Design (this shows the stock hard tanks as well)

I will use 3/4" thru hulls, 3/4" valves & the Fly High W747 adapter to connect the 1-1/8" inlet connection of the pump. I called Attwood to discuss this design, and they assured me that going with the 3/4" thru hull will not significantly impact the performance of the pump because the water is being forced through the thru hull because it is below the water line. With that pressure and the draw of the pump, there will be plenty of flow.

For the output, I will just use a very short 1-1/8" bilge hose connected to the 1-1/8" to 1" barb adapter to get to the 1" tubing I will use to connect to the Fly High quick disconnects to the bag.

For the drain side pumps, I will just do a similar type of connection on the input side of the pump - 1-1/8" hose to barb adapter to 1" hose - so that I can use the Fly High quick disconnects on the bag. I could use the W747 again, but it wouldn't be a quick disconnect.

I will drill new 1" thru hulls on either side of the boat for the new drains. I will put vented loops in the fill and drain lines to stop auto filling and draining (siphoning) of the bags.

My boat is at our place up north. I am going up next weekend to check out how many switches I have available. If I don't have 2, I will buy the stereo remote bracket that attaches under the dash and has 2 spots for switches. I will then buy the stereo remote and wire it to the stereo.

Something a little goofy on my boat ('07 VLX) is that the stock starboard and center tank fill pumps are on a tee sharing a single 3/4" thru hull. I plan on moving one to a new thru hull. Therefore, I will drill 3 new 3/4" thru hulls: (1) to move the center fill pump to it's own thru hull & (2) for the fill pumps for the bags, which will be the Fly High W707 750# put into the rear lockers.

How much do you think this will cost you? Everything looks good really good. The only thing I'm not excited about is the vented loops cost nearly the same as the pumps on wakeside. That seems a little out there. I did find some 1-1/2 for a little less on some other sites. I wonder if those could be used?

With the sacs, hoses, pumps, thru hulls, valves, etc. my total is $940 (not including shipping). With skicrave's suggestion to just use a large loop in the drain hose, though, I can cut off $52 ($26/1" vented loop) bringing the total down to $888. I am also waiting for the group buy that will be announced soon on the sacs & pumps.

Yes, you could use the 1-1/2" vented loops, but you would just have to adapt the 1" hose to 1-1/2" using some barb adapters and 1-1/2" hose. It probably would end up costing the same in the end. I found the 1" vented loops at boatfix.com for just over $26.

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Yes, the W747 will thread directly into the standard bilge drain thru-hull fitting that Malibu uses. You'll want to use a 3/4" brass ball valve before the fittings and pump so that if anything happens (the pump housing cracks for example) you have a way to shut off the flow of water.

The only reason I recommended a scupper thru-hull is that they will allow for more flow if you have multiple pumps connected to one source (not a problem in your case), and because they fill better at speed without air-locking.

Thanks for the info. Yes, I already have a 3/4" SS ball valve on my parts list for each thru hull. Malibu didn't put one on the port side pump, so I am adding one there as well.

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I would be very hesitant to use any of those fittings in a below the waterline application. Call me paranoid, but I just want the durability of metal down there.

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I would be very hesitant to use any of those fittings in a below the waterline application. Call me paranoid, but I just want the durability of metal down there.

+1

Metal all the way, with a nice shut off valve....

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So did we decide that the through hull with the small metal piece that screws on the bottom is OK or normal?

through-hull-fitting-187378.jpg

or is it better to go with the Malibu standard

PumpThruHullLG.jpg

I assume the drag isn't really going to matter any. I would actually think the Malibu version is not as good because it doesn't protect the raw edge of the cut fiberglass. The benefit however is that you can screw the ball valve directly into it.

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I would be very hesitant to use any of those fittings in a below the waterline application. Call me paranoid, but I just want the durability of metal down there.

I agree, but I can't find any metal 1-1/8" threaded adapters that fit the Tsunami pump! So, the only plastic fitting I will have below the water line (other than the pump itself) is the W747 adapter.

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I would be very hesitant to use any of those fittings in a below the waterline application. Call me paranoid, but I just want the durability of metal down there.

I agree, but I can't find any metal 1-1/8" threaded adapters that fit the Tsunami pump! So, the only plastic fitting I will have below the water line (other than the pump itself) is the W747 adapter.

It doesn't need to fit the pump does it? It needs to fit the ball valve. I suppose you could sweat it on the ball valve like you would in a house.

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So did we decide that the through hull with the small metal piece that screws on the bottom is OK or normal?

through-hull-fitting-187378.jpg

or is it better to go with the Malibu standard

PumpThruHullLG.jpg

I assume the drag isn't really going to matter any. I would actually think the Malibu version is not as good because it doesn't protect the raw edge of the cut fiberglass. The benefit however is that you can screw the ball valve directly into it.

The ring that screws on would actually go inside the boat. The smooth mushroom head would be on the outside of the boat (on the bottom of the hull).

The Malibu one does protect the raw edge of the cut fiberglass on the bottom of the hull. The flange sits on the bottom with the threads going up through the hull. The threads are actually tapered toward the flange. This is done on purpose to get a snug fit for the plug (again, this is just a garboard drain that you would typically screw in a T-plug from the inside of the boat).

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I would be very hesitant to use any of those fittings in a below the waterline application. Call me paranoid, but I just want the durability of metal down there.

I agree, but I can't find any metal 1-1/8" threaded adapters that fit the Tsunami pump! So, the only plastic fitting I will have below the water line (other than the pump itself) is the W747 adapter.

It doesn't need to fit the pump does it? It needs to fit the ball valve. I suppose you could sweat it on the ball valve like you would in a house.

Somehow you need to connect the pump to the ball valve. The only fitting that I have found that screws onto the 1-1/8" input port of the Tsunami is the T747 adapter from Fly High. If you don't use that, you have to rig something with hoses. I have seen others just force a 1-1/8" hose onto the input of the pump, but I would rather not do this for the fill pump as it wouldn't be as secure and it is below the water line. I will do this for the drain pump, but that isn't below the water line.

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