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Opinion on which to undo?


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This is the rear mount for a DD Response LXI. I have to replace the damper plate and need to remove this. I was wondering what would anyone suggest is the best way? There are 2 allen bolts set along the line of the arrow that I was thinking or removing and then raising the engine and gearbox together on an engine hoist. Any reason I should not do it that way? Thanks for any input.

post-5971-1236569406_thumb.jpg

Edited by colobuskier
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That or just pull the whole mount right off from the stringers.

You will have to make a tool to get at the lower of the two allens, it is very tight in there, usually too tight for a regular allen or allen/socket combo. I've used a cut off allen and a ratcheting wrench in the past.

-Chris

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Chris,

Thanks for the information. I was wondering about just taking the mounts straight off of the Stringers as another option. Glad to know that either will work. After that it looks pretty easy to pull the tranny with the bell housing and then replace the damper plate and slide it all back together. Any gotya's that I might need to be aware of? There's not a lot of information about how to do this that I can find. Thanks agin Chris.

Paul B.

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My one recommendation would be to consider marking some key positions as the engine will need to be properly aligned when reinstalled. A couple of scribe lines or punch marks might simplify the process greatly later.

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This is the rear mount for a DD Response LXI. I have to replace the damper plate and need to remove this. I was wondering what would anyone suggest is the best way? There are 2 allen bolts set along the line of the arrow that I was thinking or removing and then raising the engine and gearbox together on an engine hoist. Any reason I should not do it that way? Thanks for any input.

post-5971-1236569406_thumb.jpg

If you are hoisting while on the trailer, remember that when you raise the motor the springs on the trailer will unload some, so make sure you have enough capacity in your hoist. This can be a factor if your garage isn't too tall. You may want to unload the trailer springs first and work from a blocked trailer. That will also keep things from moving on the way back down.

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Chris,

Thanks for the information. I was wondering about just taking the mounts straight off of the Stringers as another option. Glad to know that either will work. After that it looks pretty easy to pull the tranny with the bell housing and then replace the damper plate and slide it all back together. Any gotya's that I might need to be aware of? There's not a lot of information about how to do this that I can find. Thanks agin Chris.

Paul B.

I've never repaired a bad damper plate just had to reassmble the whole thing when putting engines in, so I'm not sure what the easiest/ most efficent way is to do this job while in the boat.

I usually prefer to pull the mount off the tranny versus the stringers....makes realignment easier IMHO even though the bolts are a pain. I think you will find it easier to just pull the tranny off then the bellhousing instead of taking the housing and tranny together. There are couple threads in the side of the tranny you can put some bolts in and just to lift the tranny easily.

One you have that off should be an easy job, an impact gun will make it easier, and put threadlocker on the bolts going back in. I think its only 6 or 8 bolts IIRC.

I may suggest also dropping the tranny screen/filter and replacing that while you have access to the bottom of the transmission.

-Chris

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This is the rear mount for a DD Response LXI. I have to replace the damper plate and need to remove this. I was wondering what would anyone suggest is the best way? There are 2 allen bolts set along the line of the arrow that I was thinking or removing and then raising the engine and gearbox together on an engine hoist. Any reason I should not do it that way? Thanks for any input.

post-5971-1236569406_thumb.jpg

Are you out of your warranty or are you the first owner? I was thinking warranty is 36 months. As a 07 RLXI owner I don't like seeing you needing to replace a damper plate. How do you use your boat skiing or boarding? Do you have ballast? What were the symptoms or was it a complete failure. I have seen more than one or two being replaced whats up.

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Chris,

Thanks for the information. I was wondering about just taking the mounts straight off of the Stringers as another option. Glad to know that either will work. After that it looks pretty easy to pull the tranny with the bell housing and then replace the damper plate and slide it all back together. Any gotya's that I might need to be aware of? There's not a lot of information about how to do this that I can find. Thanks agin Chris.

Paul B.

I've never repaired a bad damper plate just had to reassmble the whole thing when putting engines in, so I'm not sure what the easiest/ most efficent way is to do this job while in the boat.

I usually prefer to pull the mount off the tranny versus the stringers....makes realignment easier IMHO even though the bolts are a pain. I think you will find it easier to just pull the tranny off then the bellhousing instead of taking the housing and tranny together. There are couple threads in the side of the tranny you can put some bolts in and just to lift the tranny easily.

One you have that off should be an easy job, an impact gun will make it easier, and put threadlocker on the bolts going back in. I think its only 6 or 8 bolts IIRC.

I may suggest also dropping the tranny screen/filter and replacing that while you have access to the bottom of the transmission.

-Chris

Chris,

Thanks for the information. Taking the tranny off on its own does sound easier, and I was defenitely going to do the threadlock on the damper plate bolts. Any idea about the torque setting for them? Also I assume that the section of the tranny were the cooler hoses are connected to comes off with the tranny in one unit (Once the hoses are disconnected). Once again thanks for any info. I have done many auto tranny in and outs but this is just a little different beast. BTW I have about 10ft of lift space above the boat so trailer rising shouln't be an issue. However for anyone else following this thread thats great info to be aware of. Things like that are why I support the site. Guess I need to gat a filter from Ski-dim.

Paul B.

Edited by colobuskier
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Someone else will have to step up with a real torque spec all I can give you is "pretty tight".

Pull the tranny cooler versus breaking the hoses, save yourself the mess.

-Chris

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Someone else will have to step up with a real torque spec all I can give you is "pretty tight".

Pull the tranny cooler versus breaking the hoses, save yourself the mess.

-Chris

Real torque spec is 30 ft/lbds according to skidim. They do not stock the filters for this tranny. Anybody had any luck finding these? I also agree with pulling the tranny cooler back to the heads to save the mess.

As for the newness of the boat. The number of hours on the engine do not allow the 36 months warrenty to be applied. I have seen this point argued in other threads. Unfortunately life is to short to waste time fighting the issue. If you look at the warrenty info there is a hours on the motor piece. Most people will probably not have that problem but I do. I can easily replace the damper plate. Thanks for the support everyone.

The failure mechanism is just a slight raspy noise when engaging the drive. It is getting louder and longer. I narrowed it down to coming from the bellhousing area. It is like the little chirp you get just as the tranny engages only sometimes there while idling in gear. I had another thread on this late last year and finally decided to replace the damper plate. I will see if this fixes the problem.

Edited by colobuskier
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somewhat related..

i think i've got a leaky rear main seal to i may be in the mood to yank the trans and bell housing soon, too.

safety asside, an oily bilge is more than i can cope with.

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hey guys, my name is James and I just joined the site today thought I might be able to help. first let me tell you that I am a certified Malibu tech. in houston tx. I have been working at Darryl Moore's Marine for the last 4 years. (in the biz for 14 years total)I just recently started my own service shop working primarily on wake boats and performance boats fountain's,formula's,baja's etc.

back to your drive dampner i have had to replace several due to the fact that these boats usually have such a load on them that the springs start to get alot of slop in their glands and I have seen them explode and shoot pieces thru the bellhousing pretty nasty just make sure that you get the new type that indmar has been sending to the dealers for replacment I don't know the part# off the top of my head but i can get it. if you have it now it will look like a traditional dampner but the springs will have a casing rivetted over them thus making them stronger, haven't seen any fail yet.

as for getting the tranny back, just undo some of the interior hold down screws you may have to remove the any crossmembers over the trans. even the motor box frame, as every boat can be slightly different. once that is done undo the shaft coupling pull it back

now the part that sucks take a long 9/16 box end and if you have an air ratchet get a 9/16 shallow socket hold the wrench and stick your hand in the hole on each side near the mounts hold backup on all 3-4 bolts and remove them.

on top of the trans there is a threaded hole its (fine thread) you can attach a lifting chain there with a couple of large washers

then lift the engine and trans both with the front mounts untouched. lift high enough to clear the couplers but don't go much farther unless you have to.

now take some 2x4's about 2' in length and 2 4x4's about 8" in length and block the engine by putting the 4x4's long ways against the stringers then put the 2x4's across them that may work in your boat but you may have to change the wood around to get it right, just watch really good when lowering that nothing gets smashed especially the oil drain fitting on the bottom of the oil pan also spread some shop rags across the wood for a softer contact.

you can leave the chain connected you"ll need it.

the trans lines, take a white out marker or something and mark 1 of the lines then disconnect them get a wrench on the fittings as a backup.

there will be a little oil come out , drain it in a container then tie the lines to some thing higher, not the chain just out of the way.

unbolt the scatter shield two bolts 1 on each side

then un bolt the bellhousing, taking note where the bolts go especially the ecm and relay mount bracket.

slide the trans back enough to get the dampner unbolted

bolt the new one on at 30lbs. or so I usually just use an 3/8 impact but don't go postal on them,but a torque wrench just makes the motor spin.

then reassemble the way you took it apart.

also by lifting the motor this way the engine will be the closest to being alligned when put back together it may even be perfect.

spray the strut bearing with wd40 and spin it when trying to slide the shaft back makes it easier.

AND WATCH OUT FOR FINGER PRINTS!!! lol

let me know if you have any more ? thats why I am here. James

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hey guys, my name is James and I just joined the site today thought I might be able to help. first let me tell you that I am a certified Malibu tech. in houston tx. I have been working at Darryl Moore's Marine for the last 4 years. (in the biz for 14 years total)I just recently started my own service shop working primarily on wake boats and performance boats fountain's,formula's,baja's etc.

back to your drive dampner i have had to replace several due to the fact that these boats usually have such a load on them that the springs start to get alot of slop in their glands and I have seen them explode and shoot pieces thru the bellhousing pretty nasty just make sure that you get the new type that indmar has been sending to the dealers for replacment I don't know the part# off the top of my head but i can get it. if you have it now it will look like a traditional dampner but the springs will have a casing rivetted over them thus making them stronger, haven't seen any fail yet.

as for getting the tranny back, just undo some of the interior hold down screws you may have to remove the any crossmembers over the trans. even the motor box frame, as every boat can be slightly different. once that is done undo the shaft coupling pull it back

now the part that sucks take a long 9/16 box end and if you have an air ratchet get a 9/16 shallow socket hold the wrench and stick your hand in the hole on each side near the mounts hold backup on all 3-4 bolts and remove them.

on top of the trans there is a threaded hole its (fine thread) you can attach a lifting chain there with a couple of large washers

then lift the engine and trans both with the front mounts untouched. lift high enough to clear the couplers but don't go much farther unless you have to.

now take some 2x4's about 2' in length and 2 4x4's about 8" in length and block the engine by putting the 4x4's long ways against the stringers then put the 2x4's across them that may work in your boat but you may have to change the wood around to get it right, just watch really good when lowering that nothing gets smashed especially the oil drain fitting on the bottom of the oil pan also spread some shop rags across the wood for a softer contact.

you can leave the chain connected you"ll need it.

the trans lines, take a white out marker or something and mark 1 of the lines then disconnect them get a wrench on the fittings as a backup.

there will be a little oil come out , drain it in a container then tie the lines to some thing higher, not the chain just out of the way.

unbolt the scatter shield two bolts 1 on each side

then un bolt the bellhousing, taking note where the bolts go especially the ecm and relay mount bracket.

slide the trans back enough to get the dampner unbolted

bolt the new one on at 30lbs. or so I usually just use an 3/8 impact but don't go postal on them,but a torque wrench just makes the motor spin.

then reassemble the way you took it apart.

also by lifting the motor this way the engine will be the closest to being alligned when put back together it may even be perfect.

spray the strut bearing with wd40 and spin it when trying to slide the shaft back makes it easier.

AND WATCH OUT FOR FINGER PRINTS!!! lol

let me know if you have any more ? thats why I am here. James

James,

Glad to have you aboard the crew. Thanks for sharing your experience and knowledge. I will not be able to get to the tranny for a few weeks but I wanted to know how much of a job it was going to be. Seems like it's pretty straight forward once you get help from this site on what's the best way to do things. I will post a picture of the damper plate I have versus the one I take out so that people can see what it's all about. Thanks again to eveyone that has responded.

Link to comment
hey guys, my name is James and I just joined the site today thought I might be able to help. first let me tell you that I am a certified Malibu tech. in houston tx. I have been working at Darryl Moore's Marine for the last 4 years. (in the biz for 14 years total)I just recently started my own service shop working primarily on wake boats and performance boats fountain's,formula's,baja's etc.

back to your drive dampner i have had to replace several due to the fact that these boats usually have such a load on them that the springs start to get alot of slop in their glands and I have seen them explode and shoot pieces thru the bellhousing pretty nasty just make sure that you get the new type that indmar has been sending to the dealers for replacment I don't know the part# off the top of my head but i can get it. if you have it now it will look like a traditional dampner but the springs will have a casing rivetted over them thus making them stronger, haven't seen any fail yet.

as for getting the tranny back, just undo some of the interior hold down screws you may have to remove the any crossmembers over the trans. even the motor box frame, as every boat can be slightly different. once that is done undo the shaft coupling pull it back

now the part that sucks take a long 9/16 box end and if you have an air ratchet get a 9/16 shallow socket hold the wrench and stick your hand in the hole on each side near the mounts hold backup on all 3-4 bolts and remove them.

on top of the trans there is a threaded hole its (fine thread) you can attach a lifting chain there with a couple of large washers

then lift the engine and trans both with the front mounts untouched. lift high enough to clear the couplers but don't go much farther unless you have to.

now take some 2x4's about 2' in length and 2 4x4's about 8" in length and block the engine by putting the 4x4's long ways against the stringers then put the 2x4's across them that may work in your boat but you may have to change the wood around to get it right, just watch really good when lowering that nothing gets smashed especially the oil drain fitting on the bottom of the oil pan also spread some shop rags across the wood for a softer contact.

you can leave the chain connected you"ll need it.

the trans lines, take a white out marker or something and mark 1 of the lines then disconnect them get a wrench on the fittings as a backup.

there will be a little oil come out , drain it in a container then tie the lines to some thing higher, not the chain just out of the way.

unbolt the scatter shield two bolts 1 on each side

then un bolt the bellhousing, taking note where the bolts go especially the ecm and relay mount bracket.

slide the trans back enough to get the dampner unbolted

bolt the new one on at 30lbs. or so I usually just use an 3/8 impact but don't go postal on them,but a torque wrench just makes the motor spin.

then reassemble the way you took it apart.

also by lifting the motor this way the engine will be the closest to being alligned when put back together it may even be perfect.

spray the strut bearing with wd40 and spin it when trying to slide the shaft back makes it easier.

AND WATCH OUT FOR FINGER PRINTS!!! lol

let me know if you have any more ? thats why I am here. James

James,

Glad to have you aboard the crew. Thanks for sharing your experience and knowledge. I will not be able to get to the tranny for a few weeks but I wanted to know how much of a job it was going to be. Seems like it's pretty straight forward once you get help from this site on what's the best way to do things. I will post a picture of the damper plate I have versus the one I take out so that people can see what it's all about. Thanks again to eveyone that has responded.

Hey it's not really that big of a deal just remember where it all came apart from and label if you are not comfortable with memory and pics are your best friend the hardest part is unbolting the mounts you will probably get you first fiberglass splinter under the nail mmmm let me know how it goes.

Good luck.

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boatfloater247 pretty much explained how we do it at Bake's by tilting the motor and blocking up the backside. Don't worry about trying to keep the motor aligned, it's going to get goofed up just about no matter how you go at it so plan on doing a engine alignment no matter what. At least on a direct drive it's fairly easy to re-align since the coupler is exposed. Factory spec is .003" for alignments but we typically can get them to .001"

It's not a very difficult job it just takes a lot of labor. If you are mechanical and can get a extra helping hand you should be able to complete the job in a day. Wish you luck!

If you have a hard time finding parts, drop me a e-mail and i can help you out: [email protected]

-Paul

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  • 1 month later...

Just an update:

Put in the new damper plate lined up the prop shaft and went to the lake. For the first few minutes the thing made a horrible knocking noise and I was thinking that something was terribly wrong. Thinking nothing ventured nothing gained I let it idle for about 10 mins. The noise came and went and came and went. I then decided to run it slowly through the course a few times. (20 mph) and the noise went away. I have run several sets 10+ (30 mph) through the course and everything appears to be OK. Just wondering if anybody else has had this same experience with this fix. I also cleaned the tranny screen and refilled with brand new tranny fluid.

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somewhat related..

i think i've got a leaky rear main seal to i may be in the mood to yank the trans and bell housing soon, too.

safety asside, an oily bilge is more than i can cope with.

about that rear main seal. gm motor manual says and shows a jtool for setting the new seal.

i figured it would be a metal od that was a press fit (think wheel bearing inner seal).

got the part and i was real wrong. darn thing may be all plastic!

is there an alternative method if i can't get my mits on the jtool?

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