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Prop Reman


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Anyone had a prop re-manned for a good price? I don't want someone to bang it straight and file it down. I want documentation on balancing and all that. Who does decent work out there? Thanks for any leads.

Give this place a call and set it up. Depending on how bad the prop is will affect the price. I have sent several to them and they do great work and are great to deal with. Local in the SE too!! Thumbup.gif

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If you have an ACME I'm pretty sure you can send it back to them and they will reman it.

I sent a prop to Acme once and they did an OK job, but I really thought that my local shop did a better job for a price that was as good or better.

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Another vote for not being happy with a prop I sent to Acme. Performance it seems fine. Cosmetically my 10 year old could have done a better job. One thing to note after talking with them afterward: Acme doesn't actually do anything with it other than act as the middleman to send it out to a shop that repairs it to their specs. Their explanation.....you don't send your car back to the assembly factory for repair. Being in the auto biz, I guess that made sense to me. So point is, if they are just going to send it out, then I can do the same. I sent a prop t these guys and it turned out good: Link.

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If you have an ACME I'm pretty sure you can send it back to them and they will reman it.
If you have an ACME I'm pretty sure you can send it back to them and they will reman it.

I sent a prop to Acme once and they did an OK job, but I really thought that my local shop did a better job for a price that was as good or better.

Another vote for not being happy with a prop I sent to Acme. Performance it seems fine. Cosmetically my 10 year old could have done a better job. One thing to note after talking with them afterward: Acme doesn't actually do anything with it other than act as the middleman to send it out to a shop that repairs it to their specs. Their explanation.....you don't send your car back to the assembly factory for repair. Being in the auto biz, I guess that made sense to me. So point is, if they are just going to send it out, then I can do the same. I sent a prop t these guys and it turned out good: Link.

A big NO for sending it back to ACME. I made the mistake of dropping it off at their factory in Big Rapids on my way back from the lake. They do NOT do repair work, they farm it out. Second, it took a quite long time for them return the prop back to me. Good thing I was done for the season.

I sent another prop (hey, my lake is shallow Dontknow.gif ) out to tacomapropeller.com with a decent turn-around. They use prop scan. Find a shop that does uses Prop Scan or MRI.

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Guess I didn't put a price on what it cost me the last time I sent one to performance propeller. It had a couple of bent ears and it cost me $135 which included shipping. Turn around was about 7 days.

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I appreciate all the info, maybe I'll give Eric a call, if I could get the damn thing off!! I've got a cheap 2 arm puller and wd40. I put a good amount of tension on it with the puller and then whacked it with an oak rod and a hammer, no budge. I heard heating it up might help but I didn't think that was a good idea with all the wd40 leaking down at the time.

I also noticed some spider cracking around the "shaft holder or stabilizer" (not sure what it's called exactly, you should know what I mean). I would imagine it came from the impact, I don't remember it being there before. So much for the idea that the prop will bend before any damage to other stuff. Any ways, I guess I would have to post some pics for ya'll to help me assess the extent of the damage, I don't think it's real serious but a few opinions never hurt.

Thanks

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Even when using a prop puller, it takes a lot of tension to break the prop loose from a tapered shaft. Do not use heat, and I don't know that the WD40 is helping any. Loosen the nut a turn or two & try using your two jaw puller and a brass drift between the hammer and prop. (Less lose of energy than with the oak) bu it still might not break loose. As a member, perhaps you could swing a new prop & puller on the group buy. The "strut" is the name for the prop shaft support. How badly bent is you prop & is Nibral or Stainless Steel?

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Are you hitting the puller or the prop. Once the tension is on, you'll have the best luck hitting the puller with the hammer. You don't really want the blow of the hammer being the force that knocks the prop off (IE, by hitting the prop). Hitting the puller (or shaft) puts a nice vibrating ring through it that will break it free. If you use heat, keep it well away from the strut. I don't know if they are all like this, but I know mine has plastic material in there as a bearing. If your strut is damaged, you should also probably have the shaft looked at by a pro. A new prop won't solve much if there's a slight bend in the shaft.

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So I looked up that prop puller and figured out how it worked. Then a light bulb went off and I thought, hey, my 4" C clamp kind of looks like that. So I got the prop off finally, filed it down and I'm not sure what I'm gonna do with it. I still might give Eric a call.

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