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Mobil 1 ATF


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I read an old post where they stated that synthetic ATF may cause the trans plates to slip. I got a killer deal on Mobil 1 ATF and is it ok to use? We always have the boat loaded 2500 + and would like all of the protection I can get

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FWIW I have been using it ever since I got my boat. No issues that I am aware of.

Mobil One Full Synthetic ATF in the tranny

Royal Purple SAE 30 in the V Drive

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Yup...mine is a HH with 380HP, but a different beast than the newest HH that you have. Mine is basically the same 5.7L with a different cam, heads, etc...(not 100% sure all the differences)...whereas yours is the 6.0 or 6.2L 400 HP bad mutha! ;-)

I saw recently where Castrol came out with something called EDGE that is supposed to be great. The thing to keep in mind with oils is to assure that whatever oil your using is rated according to what Indmar requires. Basically, Marine grade oil is the same as Diesel grade oil (CJ...among other ratings as well, if I recall).

The debate is often brought up and re-lived on this forum, but conventional wisdom is to stick with the oil rating that Indmar recommends, brands may vary. Many people, including myself...use plain old Shell Rotella-T 15w40. Cheap, rated among the top oils out there, readily available nearly anywhere.

Not sure, but I would make sure that the VR1-40 is rated same as Marine, and it may well be...Dontknow.gif

Wave

I thought about Royal Purple all the way around but got a deal on Mobil 1. Do you also have the HH? I have gone with VR1 40 wt.

Edited by WaveMake'nLSV
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Wave,

You got me thinking so I looked at the qt of Valvoline VR1 sae 40 that I just did an oil change with and I cannot interput the API ratings

SM SL CD

What does that mean? Is it OK

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From Indmar:

*********

Indmar recommends (and uses at our factory) Pennzoil Marine 15W40 Motor Oil. If Pennzoil 15W40 Marine Oil is not available in your area, we suggest using 20W40 or 20W50 oil meeting the API specification of SJ/CG4 or better.

Synthetic oil that meets our requirement of 15W40and API rating of SJ/CJ4 is acceptable to use after 100 hours or operation with the recommended (not synthetic) oil. The use of synthetic oil does not alter the requirement for oil changes at 50-hour intervals.

*********

Someone else will chime in I assume, but the VR1 doesn't appear to meet the requirements.

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I read an old post where they stated that synthetic ATF may cause the trans plates to slip. I got a killer deal on Mobil 1 ATF and is it ok to use? We always have the boat loaded 2500 + and would like all of the protection I can get

C28, would you happen to know where I can find this old post? Thanks

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It was by 88skier here

http://www.themalibucrew.com/forums/index....l=Synthetic+ATF

Wave,

I have right at 118 hrs. VR1 is not a synthetic my HH has the stright 40wt lable for Penzcrap which I will not use. I will need to find out how the API ratings differ. I like the ida of 20-50 because we start and stop the engine so much and I have switched to Rotella 5-40 syn in the duramax

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Plus1.gif Duramax!!!!! ;-)

I run straigt 15/40 Rotella T in my Dmax. Used the full syn 5/40 once and switched back.

I still change at 5k intervals, so figure at those intervals, syn no benefit me much and 2x $.

How often you change in your Dmax?

Sry to hijack thread. ROFL.gif

Pretty much Rotella T in my ATVs, Dirt bike, boat, truck, etc....makes it Easy!

It was by 88skier here

http://www.themalibucrew.com/forums/index....l=Synthetic+ATF

Wave,

I have right at 118 hrs. VR1 is not a synthetic my HH has the stright 40wt lable for Penzcrap which I will not use. I will need to find out how the API ratings differ. I like the ida of 20-50 because we start and stop the engine so much and I have switched to Rotella 5-40 syn in the duramax

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According to blackstone 12,000 but if I am going on a trip towing the train (condo and boat) I always change it first. I added an additional oil and trans coolers for all of the desert and hills I climb

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Who is Blackstone? I might extend mine on out to 7500 or so. I just sort of use the oil meter and when it gets to 40-50%, then I just change it. Hit the Tranny filter about every other oil chainge and Fuel Filter every 10k.

What year is your Dmax?

According to blackstone 12,000 but if I am going on a trip towing the train (condo and boat) I always change it first. I added an additional oil and trans coolers for all of the desert and hills I climb
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WOW! What a beast! I have the 07 also, but was afraid of the new Dmax with emissions and now wish I would have gotten the new body style. Drool.gif

Oh well...will be trading trucks in the next year regardless and definitely getting a loaded down GMC Dmax/Charcoal Gray (if they ever make that color again).

Blackstone...I had actually Googled it after my post and I applied for an oil analysis kit. I will send mine off at 5K and see what they say.

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I was supprised at how long you can go between changes. Mine even tested good at 12,000 but I changed it anyway I guess old habbits are hard to break

I love he new style, the interior is just fun to look at. I added the edge just to watch my EGT and PPE did a very good job with the tuner

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Not sure you can do it on the new engines, but I am running a Hypertech on setting 3 and 4" catback straight pipe (no muffler). Amazing how noisy it ISN'T. Sounds deep and thoaty, kind of like a 6.0L with duals but with ATTITUDE.

Sorry to hijack your thread, guess we should have PM'd mostly. You have tweaked my interest in the Synthetics again. Going to switch to Rotella T 5w40 and THEN run the test at 5k or so just to see where I am.

Thumbup.gif

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To answer the OP's question, DO NOT use synthetic transmission fluid in the transmission. I have been told the same thing by SkiDIM, PCM and a well respected marine transmission rebuilder. Wet clutch boat transmission such as the Borg Warner Velvet Drives and PCM Power Plus are very different animals than automotive transmissions. They are more closely related to wet clutch transmissions used in motorcycles. Synthetic is just too slippery- manufacturers will tell you that they have seen greatly reduced transmission life on boxes that had synthetic in them. Give them a call and ask.

As far as engine oil goes, most here will be fine running just about anything. Go with synthetic if you want, but dont extend the change interval- you should stick to the 50 hr/ once a season changes recommended by the manufacturer. You'll spend more on synthetic, but it is good stuff- Amsoil, Royal Purple, Mobil1 are all good- M1 arguably being the best value as its pretty good stuff and not too expensive.

Those who are running older flat tappet cam motors in their boats need to be much more careful. That would include any Ford (302 or 351w) of any year, as they never went roller in their marine blocks. Chevy didnt go roller in the 350 until sometime around 1996-1997, I believe- so make sure you know what you have in yours before choosing an oil. FT engines need oils that contain more zinc and phosphorus than the newer automotive oils- since all modern engines are full roller, the API keeps reducing the allowable amount of these heavy metals that can be contained. Therefore it is not safe to assume that any oil recommended by the manufacturer 10+ years ago is safe to use, as the formulations have changed. These heavy metals are important to have in a FT because they stick to the metal on metal contact patches between the cam and lifters. Oils that still contain these higher levels of ZDDP include all flavors of Valvoline Racing VR1 and Rotella (but just the straight weights, not the mult-vis). There are a few heavier blends of M1 that have higher zinc levels as well- but not all do. Personally, I run VR1 in 20w50 in my Fords. Dad runs either M1 or Castrol in his '03 Vortec 350.

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To answer the OP's question, DO NOT use synthetic transmission fluid in the transmission. I have been told the same thing by SkiDIM, PCM and a well respected marine transmission rebuilder. Wet clutch boat transmission such as the Borg Warner Velvet Drives and PCM Power Plus are very different animals than automotive transmissions. They are more closely related to wet clutch transmissions used in motorcycles. Synthetic is just too slippery- manufacturers will tell you that they have seen greatly reduced transmission life on boxes that had synthetic in them. Give them a call and ask.

As far as engine oil goes, most here will be fine running just about anything. Go with synthetic if you want, but dont extend the change interval- you should stick to the 50 hr/ once a season changes recommended by the manufacturer. You'll spend more on synthetic, but it is good stuff- Amsoil, Royal Purple, Mobil1 are all good- M1 arguably being the best value as its pretty good stuff and not too expensive.

Those who are running older flat tappet cam motors in their boats need to be much more careful. That would include any Ford (302 or 351w) of any year, as they never went roller in their marine blocks. Chevy didnt go roller in the 350 until sometime around 1996-1997, I believe- so make sure you know what you have in yours before choosing an oil. FT engines need oils that contain more zinc and phosphorus than the newer automotive oils- since all modern engines are full roller, the API keeps reducing the allowable amount of these heavy metals that can be contained. Therefore it is not safe to assume that any oil recommended by the manufacturer 10+ years ago is safe to use, as the formulations have changed. These heavy metals are important to have in a FT because they stick to the metal on metal contact patches between the cam and lifters. Oils that still contain these higher levels of ZDDP include all flavors of Valvoline Racing VR1 and Rotella (but just the straight weights, not the mult-vis). There are a few heavier blends of M1 that have higher zinc levels as well- but not all do. Personally, I run VR1 in 20w50 in my Fords. Dad runs either M1 or Castrol in his '03 Vortec 350.

That was a lot of info...to which I think I understand, but I'll throw this out to make sure:

Since I have a 325 Monsoon engine in my 1998 Echelon, would Mobil1 Synthetic 15-50 be okay to use? I checked the ratings and they all exceed the requirements for the engine. It's a very good price for Syn.

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