Attention 383 Hammerhead Owners

[lib135]

That's what we do at Bake's, we just made a couple wedge blocks to drive the trailer onto so all the oil drains to the side of the oil pan.

I've heard of people doing that too, makes sense but its just as easy to to drive the trailer on blocks to tilt the motor over more.

-Paul

Can you clarify which side of the trailer you drive up on blocks?

[G-Mack]

Left side wheels. Also dropping the trailer Tongue as far as possible helps. Putting a quart of oil in after you got as much as you can out will chase the remainder out of the pan... trust me it works awsome.

[WakeGirl]

The problem with some boats is that just jacking one side isn't enough, you have to drop the front jack all the way as well. The placement of the drain on the pan was perfectly horrific on my boat, & because of it I was the one that came up with chasing remaining oil. It was soooooo much easier than all of the jacking up & down, at least for me.

[G-Mack]

The problem with some boats is that just jacking one side isn't enough, you have to drop the front jack all the way as well. The placement of the drain on the pan was perfectly horrific on my boat, & because of it I was the one that came up with chasing remaining oil. It was soooooo much easier than all of the jacking up & down, at least for me.

Woops sorry forgot the props... Wakegirls oil chaser idea is in the simple idea that works great category

[WakeGirl]

I'm still irritated by that design flaw, I guess that's probably the reason for my post. And I don't even own the boat anymore! I'm not sure if that's something that Indmar fell down on or Chevy, but it's easily one of the Stoopidest things that I've seen on any Malibu. I mean really, how hard should it be to get the freaking oil drain location right?

[Malibuguru0515]

I do believe the drain is on the side of a performance engine for a reason. Clearance clarance. Just like any dry sump engine, less clearance the better for street that is. GM doesn't give a sxxx about the marine industry.

I've been working on these for years now, I feel there are a few issues. Oil burning. And oil pressure issues.

I think the low oil alarms are a result of a highly sensitive oil pressure sender and crappy oil filters restricting oil flow. Try a longer higher quality oil filter. Penzoil filters are good junk.

In 2005 the 383 were solid, no oilmpres alarm, no oil consumption. I do believe in 2006 Indmar went to a 3wire oil sender. I could be wrong too, I sometimes get my years mixed up. Low oil alarm is a non- concern to me. It would be nice if Indmar could build a 5 sec buffer into oil Pressure fault code. So a .5sec low oil reading would not trip an alarm,

Oil consumption issues. Yes the 383 is crappy for that, I was told that was a result from improper break in. Probably true in some cases. IMO the other half is GM crap ..

My 0.02$

[Malibuguru0515]

Ps, the motor was built for a shifting auto transmission. Not prolonged high rpm operation,

Owners manual states change your oil every 25 hrs for severe operation. Heavy surf or wake included.

I don't agree, just think it's a not our fault clause.

[TDubya]

Emailed last night and got response this morning first thing. New dipstick on its way. Thanks for the prompt professional service. Send them the six numbers that are on your dipstick when you contact them.

TW

[roboinsb]

Hello new to the forum.

I have a 05 sun scape with the wake setter scheme. It has burned oil from day one, got the dip stick and has always been serviced by the dealer. The dealer informed me not to worry its normal. The well of the boat has always been oily to the touch again no worries. Well the first trip of the season checked the oil added a quart (was typically burning 1 - 11/2 quarts per 4 month season. I'm getting ready to go this weekend checked the oil level two quarts low, i remembered when I drained the hull the water was sure oily. the entire well of the boat all the way up to the mid ship ballast very oily. After reaching down by the bell housing and bring up a hand full of oil I have this sick feeling in my gut that the rear main seal have been leaking for years and is now completely shot! I am going to contact Indmar tomorrow but I think totally hosed. I'm so bummed has anybody had problem with the rear main seal with the hammerhead?

[VLX BOARD NUTS]

We have always used synthic oil in our Malbiu Boats and never had any issues up here in Cental ALberta Canada. We run Mobil 5w-50 and change oil every 50 hours of engine run time. We also run full synthic oil in the trans once again Mobil one.

Never have run out of oil and never have had a low oil psi problem.

Only question I have is most CHEWV engines run at least 5- 6 litres of oil in them. Can not find in the book anywhere what the capacity is suppose too be for this HH 383. I have been runnig @ least 5 litres in it and the dipstick always says over full. The bad part of that is if it is actually over full you can cause leakage from the front and rear engine seals when the boat is not running and the oil level is too high.

[rkloeppel]

I am finally able to say that when I switched to straight 40 weight oil the motor spotted using oil.

I was using about a quart every 10 hours....that has stopped.

The motor has 78 hours on it now.

[nuttyskier2002]

Does anyone know where Indmar procures their 383 HH engines from? Do they assemble these engines with off the shelf parts or are they the same as the crate engines available at GMPP?

[Falko]

I would expect they come from GMP, but I do not know.

The 383 concept is a bastardized engine to begin with. Drag racers started building this engine years ago to get more cubes out of a standard 350 block. The 383 is a 350 block with a 400 crank. This only worked with the older engines because the cranks were for a 2pc rear main. The concept caught on as the 383 makes a bunch of torque with its long stroke and more displacement. Why didn't they continue with a standard 400 small block? The cylinders were bigger and therefore the cylinder walls touched creating Siamese walls with little cooling between them. GM started making the smaller journal 400 cranks with 1-pc rear main seal configuration for this purpose. The standard 350 block had to be modded slightly to clear the rotating journals, but little else was done.

As for the oil consumption, I've heard there is a bit of an issue with these stroked engines at the lower position of the piston creating more lateral force on the upswing having an effect on ring seating at that spot. I don't know how true that is.

As for the low oil pressure, I've seen this in a couple boats I've owned and it always occurs when the boat is pitched back and running for a bit like that. My presumption is the oil drain back is limited in this manner as only a couple of drains get used as the oil is sitting in the back of the lifter bay, not distributed around like it would be at flat cruising speed. I think it would be helpful if Indmar were to put a larger sump on these boats or enlarge those drain areas. But I do get concerned with starving the front lifters as well, but that hasn't seemed to be a problem with longevity with these boats.

[Sharpel]

I too have experienced momentary low oil pressure warnings from time to time, primarily when making hard turns. I have the new dipstick and that did help, but I think I am going to switch to a higher viscosity oil to try and slow down the amount that gets burned up.

[nuttyskier2002]

I did some research as to the origin of the HH383. It starts as a ZZ383 directly from GM's Performance catalog. The ZZ383 is available as a crate engine (minus any marine conversion equipment). This engine is a collection of high performance parts which are also available in the same catalog. It comes with a forged steel crankshaft, powered metal rods, 4-bolt main block, a performance high lift camshaft and fast burn aluminum heads. Nothing I've come across says anything about the oil pump GM used during assembly.....but I wouldn't be surprised to find that it's a high volume pump. These (high volume pumps) are known for causing oil pressure issues by pumping all of the oil into the upper part of the engine. High volume pumps should only be used when excessive bearing clearances are required (racing). But then.........the ZZ383 is somewhat of a racing engine. GM's spec is 425 HP @ 5400 RPM.

Basically, there are 3 different oil pumps that can be used on the small block Chevy engine........they are: stock Z28 type; high volume; and the big block type. Yes the big block pump will fit and has been used but not recommended unless you have excessive bearing clearance and a large capacity oil pan.

Years ago I built a 327 CI Chevy engine for my 1959 Chris Craft Capri. I used a big block pump for this engine. I did not run this engine hard (max RPM under load was about 4600). Oil pressure was good when cold and and just starting out. After running (skiing) for a while the pressure would drop as described by all here. I added an extra quart and it did help. But I do believe the root of my problem was the larger capacity oil pump.

[MLBurns]

What I don't understand is why they didn't change the oil pan. A 7 quart marine oil pan from Summit is $300. Seems like a simple fix to a big problem. If I ever pull my motor out it will go back with a bigger pan.

Edited May 2, 2013 by MLBurns

[Falko]

I always figured a good design for marine oil pan would be one that is continuously pitched from one end to the other without the drop down in the oil sump end. That dog leg is in the oil pans for a crossmember in a car, we don't have that. What we do have is engines that run more pitched to front or back and that should be taken into consideration.

[nuttyskier2002]

I need a favor from someone who owns a 2006 Malibu with the HH383. Can you please look at your knock sensors (I think there are 2) and tell me if they are the 1 wire type or the 2 wire type. Also I believe the location is the same as earlier engines (screwed into the block drains on either side of the block just above the oil pan rail). Thanks in advance for the help!

[mcbean7]

Nutty,

We are heading out tomorrow so I'll take a look at the knock sensor location and wiring for you.

[WakeGirl]

Nutty,

We are heading out tomorrow so I'll take a look at the knock sensor location and wiring for you.

They're right where he described, with the block drains on either side of the engine down low. You may have to remove the panels in the compartments to see them.

[mcbean7]

Thanks WG. Yes, they are located right where Nutty described, one on each side. Also, there are two wires going to it, a black and a white wire.

I took pics but can't seem to load them on here (I'm responding from a phone).

[mcbean7]

OK. Had to get on the desktop to make this happen. Here are the pics of the knock sensors (I believe). Hope this is what you are looking for Nutty. If not, let me know and I will try again.

[WakeGirl]

Cool. BTW, slight hijack, but how's she running?

[nuttyskier2002]

Thanks MC and WG! That's exactly the information I was looking for! I suspected they were of the 2 wire type (as the pinout diagram of the J2 connector on the MEFI 5 controller suggested) but just wanted to be sure. I'm trying to determine how easy it is and the cost to convert the 350 LCR to an HH383 (same year). Larry Englebert of Indmar gave me a few pieces of information to go on. I'm going to have to add these knock sensors to my harness.

Oh......sorry for the threadjack!

Edited May 5, 2013 by nuttyskier2002

[WakeGirl]

Wicked. That's a project that you need to keep us updated on.