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Dewinterizing, overheating, help!!


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Ok so I've been messing around with the BU. I suspected that my dealership didn't do a good winterizing my boat and I was exactly right, but that's another story.

I have changed the oil, tranny, and vdrive fluid. Replaced the impeller and cleaned out the cooler (yeah, the dealer didn't do that).

To change the oil I unhooked the intake and ran my garden hose into it, ran the temp up to 200 and I shut it down, cold water was constantly pouring back out of the hose, like it was just running up to the vdrive and then back out. So I just changed the oil, pulled the impeller, and cleaned the cooler. After that I thought I would be good. So I started it back up, it reached 200 in about 5 minutes and then I shut it back down. Water was still pouring right back out of the hose like it wasn't circulating.

The starboard exhaust was definately coming out with more pressure than port. It also had a considerable greater amount of vapor in it. Not sure what that indicates.

Please help!!

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It should not have gone up to 200, you may just have a big air pocket in the water system and the temp gauge hopefully was reading the steam temp not water.

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Ok so I've been messing around with the BU. I suspected that my dealership didn't do a good winterizing my boat and I was exactly right, but that's another story.

I have changed the oil, tranny, and vdrive fluid. Replaced the impeller and cleaned out the cooler (yeah, the dealer didn't do that).

To change the oil I unhooked the intake and ran my garden hose into it, ran the temp up to 200 and I shut it down, cold water was constantly pouring back out of the hose, like it was just running up to the vdrive and then back out. So I just changed the oil, pulled the impeller, and cleaned the cooler. After that I thought I would be good. So I started it back up, it reached 200 in about 5 minutes and then I shut it back down. Water was still pouring right back out of the hose like it wasn't circulating.

The starboard exhaust was definately coming out with more pressure than port. It also had a considerable greater amount of vapor in it. Not sure what that indicates.

Please help!!

Don't understand this part, why unhook the intake "hose" you mean. Are you not using a fake a lake plunger from the bottom of the boat? You need the impeller to be pushing water into the engine

Edited by 68Slalom
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You can't just squirt some water into the raw water intake hose and hope that it makes its way into circulation. :Doh: You need to feed water into the system via a "closed" type system (ie; fake-a-lake, flush pro, or something custom made). They feed the water in and don't allow in to run back out. The suction created by the raw water pump will suck air if allowed to, you need to eliminate the air entering the system.

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You can't just squirt some water into the raw water intake hose and hope that it makes its way into circulation. :Doh: You need to feed water into the system via a "closed" type system (ie; fake-a-lake, flush pro, or something custom made). They feed the water in and don't allow in to run back out. The suction created by the raw water pump will suck air if allowed to, you need to eliminate the air entering the system.

I understand what you are saying but I did everything according to a popular winterization guide posted on here about winterizing a Monsoon. So on these fake a lake systems, where does the water go once the engine is full? I guess I'll just have to take her to the lake for a dip!!

Edited by nemire12
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that sounds about right, your pulling air into the system and it's not cooling the engine down. Do you have a boat launch close that you can back to boat down into and fire it up? that would probably be the easiest thing to do. Or pull off the intake hose and shove a garden hose into it, hose clamp it tight and that should be able to run the engine at idle speeds.

If the boat still overheats your thermostat could be stuck closed from sitting over the winter, it's rare but i see it happen every once in a while.

-Paul

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So on these fake a lake systems, where does the water go once the engine is full?

:unsure: The engine doesn't technically get "full" as the water is leaving the engine via the exhaust system. You need to continually pump water into the engine while it is running.

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Ok so I've been messing around with the BU. I suspected that my dealership didn't do a good winterizing my boat and I was exactly right, but that's another story.

I have changed the oil, tranny, and vdrive fluid. Replaced the impeller and cleaned out the cooler (yeah, the dealer didn't do that).

To change the oil I unhooked the intake and ran my garden hose into it, ran the temp up to 200 and I shut it down, cold water was constantly pouring back out of the hose, like it was just running up to the vdrive and then back out. So I just changed the oil, pulled the impeller, and cleaned the cooler. After that I thought I would be good. So I started it back up, it reached 200 in about 5 minutes and then I shut it back down. Water was still pouring right back out of the hose like it wasn't circulating.

The starboard exhaust was definately coming out with more pressure than port. It also had a considerable greater amount of vapor in it. Not sure what that indicates.

Please help!!

I do it the same way that you were attempting to do it: unhook the hose from the raw water intake, shove a garden

hose down 10 or 12 inches, and then turn the water on. I then crank the engine. It doesn't really require

much water flow, so if you have the hose turned on at a rate higher than needed, the [cold] water will, in fact, run back

out of the hose and spill over into the bilge. The fact that the raw water hose dives downward towards the v-drive

should ensure that, with the garden hose inserted and water flowing, the system is sufficiently "closed," the column

of water from the tip of the garden hose up to the proximal end of the raw water intake hose providing the seal.

But, it is important that water flows up past the thermostat, through the bypass, through the exhaust manifolds,

and out through the rubber flap (in my case) exhaust ports until the temperature rises enough for the

thermostat to open and allow water to circulate through the block. So, what's important to note is not

whether water is back flowing from around the garden hose, but whether water is spilling out of the

exhaust. If it doesn't, then shut her down: either the impeller, for whatever reason, is not pulling enough

water, or there is some obstruction downstream of the impeller preventing water circulation through the

exhaust system.

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Yeah like Srab said, that's basically how I did it, not sure why the problem was, I didn't hold my tongue right I guess. So anyways, I headed to the lake, ran her for 1/2 hour, stuck between 160 and 170 the whole time. Big load off my mind!!

This is the first time I've had the boat on the water, I hit a frickin rock after 3 minutes!! It skinned up the prop a bit but the boat didn't shudder or run rough. As soon as I heard the bang the boat shut off and I about threw up!!! I should be able to file it down and look good as new.

Now I have another potential problem, I have a constant water leak some where around where the shaft enters the vdrive unit. Is this normal, acutally now that I think about it, maybe when I hit that rock, I may have cracked a seal or something.

Any advise??

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Regarding your prop: If you need to do more than just file a roughened edge you are likely to end up with an out of balance prop. Even minor vibration caused by a slightly out of balance prop will cause your strut bearing to wear prematurely. Have the prop fix by a prop shop.

Regarding your leak: Most likely culprit is the shaft log (where the drive shaft enters the hull). This shaft seal uses packing material that is basically a waxed rope. As the rope wears you tighten the outer adjusting nut so that you achieve a drip rate of 1 drip ~ every 10 seconds. After sitting for a while the packing material will dry out and shrink a bit causing excessive leaking the first few times out on the water until the material rehydrates.

Edited by NorCaliBu
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Regarding your prop: If you need to do more than just file a roughened edge you are likely to end up with an out of balance prop. Even minor vibration caused by a slightly out of balance prop will cause your strut bearing to wear prematurely. Have the prop fix by a prop shop.

Regarding your leak: Most likely culprit is the shaft log (where the drive shaft enters the hull). This shaft seal uses packing material that is basically a waxed rope. As the rope wears you tighten the outer adjusting nut so that you achieve a drip rate of 1 drip ~ every 10 seconds. After sitting for a while the packing material will dry out and shrink a bit causing excessive leaking the first few times out on the water until the material rehydrates.

the leak appears to be coming from up higher on the shaft towards the vdrive unit. It looks like there's two different places where it is linked together. Also when I changed the vdrive fluid, it looked like pepto bismol and someone suggested water entry. I wonder if raw water cooling the vdrive unit is somehow passing into the fluid and/or leaking out the shaft exit. I have no idea if this is even possible, I'm just throwing ideas around. Maybe I can get a pic of where I think it's coming from. Appreciate the help!!

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No problem. If the water is entering at the shaft then you need to adjust the packing gland. Water in the V-Drive unti is a different issue (and a more serious issue). You have to figure out where it came from. Wish I could help you but I'll a slalom dog and have 0 experience with V-Drives. Someone else is gonna have to step up on this issue.

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After sitting for a while the. . .material will dry out and shrink a bit causing excessive leaking the first few times out. . .until the material rehydrates.
Wish I could help you but . . .Someone else is gonna have to . . .

Perhaps you should listen to what you're saying, Michael. . .

After sitting for awhile, your material has dried out. Not sure, in your case, that it CAN be rehydrated. I'm sure you wish you could help him out, but let's just see if you get over your excessive leaking first, shall we? Tease2.gif

ROFL.gif

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After sitting for awhile, your material has dried out. Not sure, in your case, that it CAN be rehydrated. I'm sure you wish you could help him out, but let's just see if you get over your excessive leaking first, shall we? Tease2.gif

Shocking.gif A talking dipstick!! That's not something you see everyday. :lol:

Jack, don't worry about my packing material. It's just fine...but it's nice (or kinda wierd) to know you concerned about it. Yuk.gif

Edited by NorCaliBu
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You should be careful with this! If your engine doesn't have water in the system, I"m not sure that your temp reading will be accurate! I haven't tried it with our '06 but we had a problem with a bad impeller in my friends much older one. The temp reading was fine, but if you touched the exhaust manifolds they were HOT HOT HOT. We decided this was because there was no water to read the temperature of. So, you may be running even higher than 200.

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You should be careful with this! If your engine doesn't have water in the system, I"m not sure that your temp reading will be accurate! I haven't tried it with our '06 but we had a problem with a bad impeller in my friends much older one. The temp reading was fine, but if you touched the exhaust manifolds they were HOT HOT HOT. We decided this was because there was no water to read the temperature of. So, you may be running even higher than 200.

That is interesting, I'll check that next time, thanks.

Edited by nemire12
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