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Heatercraft heater core


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I've got a 300H heatercraft boat heater and the core is leaking. I saw a post once that this core matches up to an automotive core (maybe a mustang)I can get at the parts store. I can't find the post does anyone know if that is true before I cough up $175 to heatercraft?

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The basic configuration is a Ford heater core. It's hard to find the large one from a local auto parts store, but you can find a shorter one there, usually very cheap. You would have to make a blocker panel to compensate for the difference. If you don't like that idea, take your core to a radiator shop and they should be able to solder the core. In my experience, once they start leaking, unless due to rubbing on something, you are just buying some time as the core will start to leak elsewhere. I have chased leaks around with the solder gun for a while. The real culprit is the harshness of the water that runs through them, or a force failure due to freezing.

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Yea, I just replaced mine last spring. It was (if I remember right) a 89 Mustang core. I just pulled the heater out, removed the core from the box, took it to Napa & they had it in a couple minutes. I think I paid $29 for it.

Doesn't get much simplier than that..... and I live 10 minutes from Heatercraft.

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I replaced mine from SkiDim early last season and had no trouble since. In 2004/2005 they had some bad cores, they claim.

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Yet another reason to stay current on the postings' here, I just had my core rebuilt for $100. If I would have read this thread I would have been at the auto parts store buying a new mustang core...

-Dave

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Yea, I just replaced mine last spring. It was (if I remember right) a 89 Mustang core. I just pulled the heater out, removed the core from the box, took it to Napa & they had it in a couple minutes. I think I paid $29 for it.

Doesn't get much simplier than that..... and I live 10 minutes from Heatercraft.

Do you get prices at cost $$ that is really cheap Thumbup.gif

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Some tips with heater cores, don't rebuild them. You'll only save $20-40 from purchasing a new, and the repairs seem to last a year or so and they start to leak again.

Heater craft did change their heater core 2 years or so ago, they were having problems with them back in 05 having a weak seal. The newer unit is supposed to promote more heat exchange and last longer. In my opinion it does do a better job. With that said make sure you order the "wrap" (metal housing the core is in) the new heater cores do not fit in the old wraps.

Sorry Bake's wasn't able to help you with your project, We stock the heater cores as well.

-Paul

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Yea, I just replaced mine last spring. It was (if I remember right) a 89 Mustang core. I just pulled the heater out, removed the core from the box, took it to Napa & they had it in a couple minutes. I think I paid $29 for it.

Doesn't get much simplier than that..... and I live 10 minutes from Heatercraft.

Do you get prices at cost $$ that is really cheap Thumbup.gif

Oh, I lied.... it's $39.... assuming my memory was right about it being an 89 Mustang core. I brought the old core in & it took the guy like 2 minutes to cross reference it. .

Napa heater core.

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When I replaced the one in my former Supra a few years back I was told by whoever I spoke with at HeaterCraft that an automotive core won't hold up as long as the marinized version. Supposedly HC does something, some kind of lining or some such, to make it hold up to raw water. Anyone else heard that?

An automotive core has the advantage of having antifreeze with an anti corrosive running through it. The heater core in a boat doesn't so something has to be done to it so it doesn't corode out on you in raw water. That's what I was told anyway. I think I gave like $110 for the new core mounted in the housing, all I did was take the fan off the old one, put it on the new one, and mount it up. Pretty simple.

Ed

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When I replaced the one in my former Supra a few years back I was told by whoever I spoke with at HeaterCraft that an automotive core won't hold up as long as the marinized version. Supposedly HC does something, some kind of lining or some such, to make it hold up to raw water. Anyone else heard that?

An automotive core has the advantage of having antifreeze with an anti corrosive running through it. The heater core in a boat doesn't so something has to be done to it so it doesn't corode out on you in raw water. That's what I was told anyway. I think I gave like $110 for the new core mounted in the housing, all I did was take the fan off the old one, put it on the new one, and mount it up. Pretty simple.

Ed

I would totally agree with that although I don't know what they would do different unless they are doing some kind of conversion coatings that is done by immersion or pumping through the cores itself. Another benefit to going closed loop cooling system Biggrin.gif

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  • 8 months later...

Reviving this somewhat old thread (and very old topic :) ) .

My latest core is leaking again. I've been through the original heatercraft, a replacement from them, and 2 auto cores. It seems like once I started skiing at the local ski pond, the cores are breaking down much more quickly. When I was on the public lakes, the core lasted much longer. The water at the ski lake is particular nasty, so not much care free maintenance over the past 8 years or so. I even shut off the water to my core for 1/2 the season (hmmmm.....wonder in hindsight if that is making it worse, even though I blow out the water ***gently*** when I turn the valves off)

I can go the napa route again for another two seasons for about $35 +/ $5, or the heatercraft route for $110. Last time I made my decision, the new heatercraft cores had only been out a year, so I wasn't ready to fork over the bigger bucks without proof they were holding up better.

EDIT: Just tracked down my receipts and maintenance log. The latest core from Napa lasted 4 years for me, more than I thought.

So, my question to all those who bought the heatercraft new cores in 2006 (after the revised core)....Are they still holding up?

Edited by Addictedto6
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Seems odd that they would just start leaking after a year or two. No chance of a freeze problem there?

The last couple of boats I've had I install a pair of radiator flush Ts from a Prestone flush kit in the heater hoses at their lowest point in the bilge. In the Vride, they are towards the back of the engine, on the passenger side. I reach down, pull the caps & the heater core drains in the bilge in seconds. It's a regular thing in the spring & fall when we ride but temps will freeze occasionally. We've already seen 39 degrees a few days ago.

But not today. Headed for 90 today. And we'll have to get on the water to deal with it too. Rockon.gif

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Nope, no freezing problem. The rare occasion that it gets that cold here the boat is back home in the garage. As I mentioned, I have shutoff valves to the heater and drain mine when I am not using it (even in the summer).

The water in the private lakes is pretty harsh, so not really that surprised it lasted 4 years.

I was actually off on my history as I thought I had bought 2 cores from Napa. Only 1 (just feels like it was yesterday...time flies!). The other Napa core I was thinking about was the one I tracked down for a friend at the lake.

My history

Mar 1999 - Dec 2003 original heatercraft core

Dec 2003 - Jun 2005 Replacement from heatercraft (at a large discount - I think it was a test core for them):

Jun 2005 - Sep 2005 Repair attempt $30 (WASTE of Money!)

Sep 2005 - Sep 2009 Napa Auto Core $29

skier92, I used Napa 660-3100 for my 2 outlet heater. Pretty good match for me. Some folks on the site have reported that the Napa cores don't match anymore due to a slight redesign. Also, Heatercraft changed their housing (late 04-05?), so if you have a newer heater that part number won't work for you.

I don't have a problem buying a new core from heatercraft IF that core is really going to last longer than a Napa core. But I haven't heard any official field reports confirming that yet, which is what I was hoping to get!

Ps. Baddog, We had one cool morning about 2 weeks ago. It's going to be close to 100 degrees most of the week, so how's that heat for you. :biteme:Tease2.gifBiggrin.gif

Edited by Addictedto6
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I've been through 3 cores on my 99 RLX. The leaks have always been tiny pin holes. The last one... maybe 4 years ago was different and is still going strong (knock on wood). I was told the leakage is due to a water chemistry thing, which autos don't have since they are filled with antifreeze.

Here's another thing. Heatercraft told me to add a valve to shut off the flow when not using the heater during the hot summer months (I haven't done this yet). I didn't realize this, but your heater is heating all summer, you're just not using the fan. Anyway, reducing the flow when not in use may help get more hours out of a core.

One thing I wish they would do is to design these to drain better when winterizing. You can't get the last bit of water out without "pumping" antifreeze through.

Deke

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One thing I wish they would do is to design these to drain better when winterizing. You can't get the last bit of water out without "pumping" antifreeze through.

Deke

Be sure that your core is installed so that the inlet/outlets are on the bottom. When I bought my boat, it came with a stereo system with a Kicker sub down by the driver's feet. The first spring I owned it, I installed the flush Ts in the heater lines, drained it & hardly anything came out. That core froze & started leaking. So I had to pull the sub, and noticed the core was installed with the inlet/outlets on the top.... and the core full of water. I installed a Napa heater core in it, reoriented it so it would drain properly, and have had no issues to date. Maybe a valve in that setup is next.

FYI, I've now replaced Heatercraft heater cores with Napa cores in 3 different boats now. One this spring, my new boat about a year & a half ago & my old boat like 6 or 7 yrs ago. All are going fine now.

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I was told up here to disconnect both hoses when winterizing and blow the core out with your mouth. Dont use air pressure as the core cant take too much. It works good,, I did it this year..Yes,,Already!!

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Be sure that your core is installed so that the inlet/outlets are on the bottom. When I bought my boat, it came with a stereo system with a Kicker sub down by the driver's feet. The first spring I owned it, I installed the flush Ts in the heater lines, drained it & hardly anything came out. That core froze & started leaking. So I had to pull the sub, and noticed the core was installed with the inlet/outlets on the top.... and the core full of water. I installed a Napa heater core in it, reoriented it so it would drain properly, and have had no issues to date. Maybe a valve in that setup is next.

FYI, I've now replaced Heatercraft heater cores with Napa cores in 3 different boats now. One this spring, my new boat about a year & a half ago & my old boat like 6 or 7 yrs ago. All are going fine now.

Great suggestion on the heater mount. I've been lightly blowing air through (with my mouth) when I shut it off, but am sure that does not get all water out. I'll see if I can spin the mount (my outlets I believe are on the side).

I think I am just going with Napa again. The heatercraft core would have to last more than 13 years for it to be worth the extra coin (assuming I will get a min of 4 years out of a Napa core again).

Edited by Addictedto6
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Nope, no freezing problem. The rare occasion that it gets that cold here the boat is back home in the garage. As I mentioned, I have shutoff valves to the heater and drain mine when I am not using it (even in the summer).

The water in the private lakes is pretty harsh, so not really that surprised it lasted 4 years.

I was actually off on my history as I thought I had bought 2 cores from Napa. Only 1 (just feels like it was yesterday...time flies!). The other Napa core I was thinking about was the one I tracked down for a friend at the lake.

My history

Mar 1999 - Dec 2003 original heatercraft core

Dec 2003 - Jun 2005 Replacement from heatercraft (at a large discount - I think it was a test core for them):

Jun 2005 - Sep 2005 Repair attempt $30 (WASTE of Money!)

Sep 2005 - Sep 2009 Napa Auto Core $29

skier92, I used Napa 660-3100 for my 2 outlet heater. Pretty good match for me. Some folks on the site have reported that the Napa cores don't match anymore due to a slight redesign. Also, Heatercraft changed their housing (late 04-05?), so if you have a newer heater that part number won't work for you.

I don't have a problem buying a new core from heatercraft IF that core is really going to last longer than a Napa core. But I haven't heard any official field reports confirming that yet, which is what I was hoping to get!

Ps. Baddog, We had one cool morning about 2 weeks ago. It's going to be close to 100 degrees most of the week, so how's that heat for you. :biteme:Tease2.gifBiggrin.gif

No big deal. I see 100 degrees all the time now. Only problem is that the 100 degrees is in the block water. Only way I'll get to 100 the rest of the year.

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I replaced my original heatercraft core in my 03 sportster with a new one from SkiDim. The core looked totally different (way better) and haven't had a problem since.

I changed one thing in my winterization last year and will continue to do so. I too blew the core out with my mouth and used to add RV antifreeze but if I did not get all the water out the Rv stuff would probably be diluted too much and could freeze. So I now take off both hoses, blow it out with my mouth and add Ethyl Glycol (car antifreeze) to the core. If it mixes with a bit of water no big deal. BEFORE I start the boat in the spring on the hose I blow out the antifreeze again into the original jug and use it again. I run the boat on the hose for quite a while collecting the exhaust water in pails until the water runs clear from the RV antifreeze in the block.

I haven't had a problem with the core leaking since (knock on wood)

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