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XPC Shaft seal "dripless"

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I am going to change next time to a Gor Tex from Discount Inboard Marine Skidim.com under shaft seals. I was told thy work very well. Dontknow.gif I have not used one yet.

Have any other Crew used one??????

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Has anyone used the dripless shaft seal from OJ?? Is it worth the hassle of putting it on??? They claim it is quieter.... Dontknow.gifDontknow.gif

I know someone who used tge PSS dripless which has been around for a while and I believe is similar, he claims it works well but doesn't feel it's worth it. I for one don't mind the conventional packing because my boat doesn't sit in the water over night, mine doesn't leak too much and I can't hear it at all.

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M3Fan (Joel) put one in this spring. He has documented the process on Fifteen Off

I put the GoreTex nearly dripless packing in last spring. It took a little while to let it settle in and a lot less pressure than the packing I replaced. It seems to work fine. The hardest part was getting the old packing out - it was hard as a rock. I used some dentist type picks, but they make a corkscrew like pick that may have made it easier.

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Thanks for the link wienerdog. Let me add a couple of comments to my review of the installation- installation of the seal itself is very simple. However, taking the single-taper driveshaft out of the boat is NOT easy! This project nearly put me over the edge. I also upgraded the strut bearings to the OJ XPC strut bearings while the shaft was out, which are made of a hard plastic material called Vesconite rather than rubber/brass. The XPC shaft seal certainly has less drag on the driveshaft than a conventional stuffing box setup. All that's touching the shaft is a pair of graphite lip seals. That combined with the new strut bearings allows my prop to spin freely by hand, even with the boat sitting on the trailer- if you spin the prop hard by hand, it will actually turn a few revolutions before stopping.

OJ's tech support is fantastic- those guys really went the extra mile to make sure my installation was as smooth as possible. Ironically although I'm getting zero water from the shaft seal I still get water in the bilge from my rudder packing (which I'll tackle next year) and from skiers climbing in and out of the boat.

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  • 5 months later...

Has anyone else installed the dripless seal at teh shaft? Has anyone used the new goretex packing at the rudder? With the new packing at the shaft (goretex), what kind of drip count shoudl you shoot for?

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Can anyone provide any advice or links for removing old bearings yourself? Is that wise, or not? Thanks.

Removing the bearings is not too hard technically but it is frustrating to be lying under the boat sawing for a half hour or more, contorted around the trailer supports and whatnot. Use either a hand hacksaw or a Sawzall (carefully) and saw the bearings straight through, stopping when you hit the strut. I'd suggest sawing at the top of the bearing (12 o'clock position) since the strut has the most meat there in the event that you saw through the bearing and into the strut. Once one cut has been made down the length of the bearing, it no longer has an interference/press fit to the strut and can be pulled out easily by bending up a corner of the bearing with a punch and removing with some needle nose pliers. They might even just slide out by hand. A length of threaded rod, a few nuts, and some fender washers make a terrific press for installing the new bearings.

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Is the sawing procedure used in lieu of, or with, the bearing/strut puller?

Thanks for chiming in! How are those new bearings working?

No need for the bearing puller. Once the cut is made, tension releases and they come right out. New bearings are still working fine since I installed them last year. I have about 70 hours on them so far.

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