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Stock Ballast Pumps


Tao of Wake

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I really wish you guys would get this all sorted out so I can add some 750's to the rear of my 09 LSV. I just need something easy and simple that pumps and drains from me sitting happily in my seat! Is that to much to ask for! haha

I know exactly how to do that. Do you have the gumpshion to drill that pretty new boat.? or better yet just pull your stock tanks and add custom sacks now that would be sweet.

you forgot the "my friends" at the end of that phrase. :)

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I really wish you guys would get this all sorted out so I can add some 750's to the rear of my 09 LSV. I just need something easy and simple that pumps and drains from me sitting happily in my seat! Is that to much to ask for! haha

I know exactly how to do that. Do you have the gumpshion to drill that pretty new boat.? or better yet just pull your stock tanks and add custom sacks now that would be sweet.

Id rather not drill if I dont have to. Thats why I'm hoping you guys come up with a way to tie in some fat sacs into the existing system and use the lines already there. I'm sure its gonna take a while to fill everything with stock pumps, but oh well it beats having to throw a pump over the side to fill a bag. The best ive read so far still requires a little extra effort to get the last couple of inches of water to drain out of the sac into the hard tank.

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I really wish you guys would get this all sorted out so I can add some 750's to the rear of my 09 LSV. I just need something easy and simple that pumps and drains from me sitting happily in my seat! Is that to much to ask for! haha

I know exactly how to do that. Do you have the gumpshion to drill that pretty new boat.? or better yet just pull your stock tanks and add custom sacks now that would be sweet.

Id rather not drill if I dont have to. Thats why I'm hoping you guys come up with a way to tie in some fat sacs into the existing system and use the lines already there. I'm sure its gonna take a while to fill everything with stock pumps, but oh well it beats having to throw a pump over the side to fill a bag. The best ive read so far still requires a little extra effort to get the last couple of inches of water to drain out of the sac into the hard tank.

did you look at the pic that ronnie had drawn up for this set up? I think i am going to do mine that way, it looks like the easiest way.

post-5306-1226414584.jpg

Edited by txwakejunkie
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I really wish you guys would get this all sorted out so I can add some 750's to the rear of my 09 LSV. I just need something easy and simple that pumps and drains from me sitting happily in my seat! Is that to much to ask for! haha

I know exactly how to do that. Do you have the gumpshion to drill that pretty new boat.? or better yet just pull your stock tanks and add custom sacks now that would be sweet.

Id rather not drill if I dont have to. Thats why I'm hoping you guys come up with a way to tie in some fat sacs into the existing system and use the lines already there. I'm sure its gonna take a while to fill everything with stock pumps, but oh well it beats having to throw a pump over the side to fill a bag. The best ive read so far still requires a little extra effort to get the last couple of inches of water to drain out of the sac into the hard tank.

did you look at the pic that ronnie had drawn up for this set up? I think i am going to do mine that way, it looks like the easiest way.

post-5306-1226414584.jpg

A couple concerns that I have read about this design:

1. The fat sac may fill faster than the hard tank since the pump is actively pumping the water into the fat sac but it is just draining from the fat sac to the hard tank. In another post, someone mentioned that replacing the 1" tubing between the two increases the flow, but is it enough? The concern is that if the fat sac fills faster than the hard tank, is there a danger of collapsing the hard tank due to the weight? It seems that Cervelo does not think so. I don't know if I would take the chance.

2. The added water pressure in the hard tank due to the connection with the fat sac pushes water out the drain line. Others have installed a ball valve in the drain line to alleviate this.

It does seem like a pretty good design otherwise. I just would like some real world experience as to the fill speed of each tank - pumping into the fat sac and draining into the hard tank and how full the fat sac gets before the hard tank fills - and some actual data on the weight support of an empty hard tank. This design was supposed to alleviate the siphoning effect out the vent line. I also commented that possibly changing the vent line from 3/4" to 1" hose may correct this. I don't believe the siphon would hold since it is pushing out a 3/4" port into a 1" hose. The siphon would break because the 1" hose would not remain completely filled with water. Lastly, I am trying to avoid any manual steps, and adding the ball valve to the drain line would be manual. I could always add the DC valve, but it would be costly. As liljohn commented, the cost of the design may exceed just drilling holes and adding pumps. I am SLOWLY moving that way!

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I really wish you guys would get this all sorted out so I can add some 750's to the rear of my 09 LSV. I just need something easy and simple that pumps and drains from me sitting happily in my seat! Is that to much to ask for! haha

I know exactly how to do that. Do you have the gumpshion to drill that pretty new boat.? or better yet just pull your stock tanks and add custom sacks now that would be sweet.

Id rather not drill if I dont have to. Thats why I'm hoping you guys come up with a way to tie in some fat sacs into the existing system and use the lines already there. I'm sure its gonna take a while to fill everything with stock pumps, but oh well it beats having to throw a pump over the side to fill a bag. The best ive read so far still requires a little extra effort to get the last couple of inches of water to drain out of the sac into the hard tank.

The method I have shown originaly is proven. My dealer has done it 20+ times and I have talked to a few people that have it. They all love it.

the only part that is manuel is the 2 fill valves. There is no drilling needed. cheap and easy. and most important simple.

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I really wish you guys would get this all sorted out so I can add some 750's to the rear of my 09 LSV. I just need something easy and simple that pumps and drains from me sitting happily in my seat! Is that to much to ask for! haha

I know exactly how to do that. Do you have the gumpshion to drill that pretty new boat.? or better yet just pull your stock tanks and add custom sacks now that would be sweet.

Id rather not drill if I dont have to. Thats why I'm hoping you guys come up with a way to tie in some fat sacs into the existing system and use the lines already there. I'm sure its gonna take a while to fill everything with stock pumps, but oh well it beats having to throw a pump over the side to fill a bag. The best ive read so far still requires a little extra effort to get the last couple of inches of water to drain out of the sac into the hard tank.

The method I have shown originaly is proven. My dealer has done it 20+ times and I have talked to a few people that have it. They all love it.

the only part that is manuel is the 2 fill valves. There is no drilling needed. cheap and easy. and most important simple.

liljohn - Where will you put the valves to make them easily accessible?

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I really wish you guys would get this all sorted out so I can add some 750's to the rear of my 09 LSV. I just need something easy and simple that pumps and drains from me sitting happily in my seat! Is that to much to ask for! haha

I know exactly how to do that. Do you have the gumpshion to drill that pretty new boat.? or better yet just pull your stock tanks and add custom sacks now that would be sweet.

Id rather not drill if I dont have to. Thats why I'm hoping you guys come up with a way to tie in some fat sacs into the existing system and use the lines already there. I'm sure its gonna take a while to fill everything with stock pumps, but oh well it beats having to throw a pump over the side to fill a bag. The best ive read so far still requires a little extra effort to get the last couple of inches of water to drain out of the sac into the hard tank.

The method I have shown originaly is proven. My dealer has done it 20+ times and I have talked to a few people that have it. They all love it.

the only part that is manuel is the 2 fill valves. There is no drilling needed. cheap and easy. and most important simple.

liljohn - Where will you put the valves to make them easily accessible?

I am making a carpeted panel to go over the tranny and under the seat cusion I will have both valves and both drain switchs on on it with labels so other people in the boat( or that purchase) can use it with out asking 50 queshtions. the key with this is leaving enough slack in the hose to still service the v-drive unit.

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I really wish you guys would get this all sorted out so I can add some 750's to the rear of my 09 LSV. I just need something easy and simple that pumps and drains from me sitting happily in my seat! Is that to much to ask for! haha

I know exactly how to do that. Do you have the gumpshion to drill that pretty new boat.? or better yet just pull your stock tanks and add custom sacks now that would be sweet.

Id rather not drill if I dont have to. Thats why I'm hoping you guys come up with a way to tie in some fat sacs into the existing system and use the lines already there. I'm sure its gonna take a while to fill everything with stock pumps, but oh well it beats having to throw a pump over the side to fill a bag. The best ive read so far still requires a little extra effort to get the last couple of inches of water to drain out of the sac into the hard tank.

The method I have shown originaly is proven. My dealer has done it 20+ times and I have talked to a few people that have it. They all love it.

the only part that is manuel is the 2 fill valves. There is no drilling needed. cheap and easy. and most important simple.

liljohn - Where will you put the valves to make them easily accessible?

I am making a carpeted panel to go over the tranny and under the seat cusion I will have both valves and both drain switchs on on it with labels so other people in the boat( or that purchase) can use it with out asking 50 queshtions. the key with this is leaving enough slack in the hose to still service the v-drive unit.

Drain switches? I thought you were putting new drain pumps on the fat sacs and drilling new vent/drain lines in the side of the boat?

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I really wish you guys would get this all sorted out so I can add some 750's to the rear of my 09 LSV. I just need something easy and simple that pumps and drains from me sitting happily in my seat! Is that to much to ask for! haha

I know exactly how to do that. Do you have the gumpshion to drill that pretty new boat.? or better yet just pull your stock tanks and add custom sacks now that would be sweet.

Id rather not drill if I dont have to. Thats why I'm hoping you guys come up with a way to tie in some fat sacs into the existing system and use the lines already there. I'm sure its gonna take a while to fill everything with stock pumps, but oh well it beats having to throw a pump over the side to fill a bag. The best ive read so far still requires a little extra effort to get the last couple of inches of water to drain out of the sac into the hard tank.

The method I have shown originaly is proven. My dealer has done it 20+ times and I have talked to a few people that have it. They all love it.

the only part that is manuel is the 2 fill valves. There is no drilling needed. cheap and easy. and most important simple.

liljohn - Where will you put the valves to make them easily accessible?

I am making a carpeted panel to go over the tranny and under the seat cusion I will have both valves and both drain switchs on on it with labels so other people in the boat( or that purchase) can use it with out asking 50 queshtions. the key with this is leaving enough slack in the hose to still service the v-drive unit.

Drain switches? I thought you were putting new drain pumps on the fat sacs and drilling new vent/drain lines in the side of the boat?

yes I am adding new drain pumps for the baggs but they Y into the existing drain and vent lines in my drawing I show that with check valves but after talking with the dealer I found out you dont need the checks as the force of water takes the easy path I.E. out of the boat..

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yes I am adding new drain pumps for the baggs but they Y into the existing drain and vent lines in my drawing I show that with check valves but after talking with the dealer I found out you dont need the checks as the force of water takes the easy path I.E. out of the boat..

liljohn - Sounds good. So, you will need a total of 4 diverter valves. I just checked at the Bakes site, and these are $46 each! That's $184 just for the valves. Wow! I would probably do the same thing with tying in the bow sac to the center tank, so I would need a total of 6 of these valves. It wouldn't be that much more just to buy the thru hulls and pumps, and this would definitely be quicker! BTW, I did find a nice switch panel that would probably be very easy to mount. I was thinking I could re-route the existing switches to this one to make this the "ballast control panel".

Paul - What is the threaded fitting side on the stock MLS hard tanks? I saw that you have some elbows that are 3/4" barb by 1" threaded and they are "used with Malibu's MLS systems". Does that mean that the ports on the hard tanks are 1"? Have you seen any performance increase by running 1" hose from the pump to the hard tanks? Also, have you seen any difference by splitting the 2 fill pumps - starboard and center - to their own thru hull pick ups? Right now, there is a single 3/4" thru hull that is split to the two pumps. It seems that this design would decrease the flow rate to the two tanks if you try to fill both at the same time (I think this is typical). I don't want to drill a new thru hull if there is no appreciable difference, though.

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yes I am adding new drain pumps for the baggs but they Y into the existing drain and vent lines in my drawing I show that with check valves but after talking with the dealer I found out you dont need the checks as the force of water takes the easy path I.E. out of the boat..

liljohn - Sounds good. So, you will need a total of 4 diverter valves. I just checked at the Bakes site, and these are $46 each! That's $184 just for the valves. Wow! I would probably do the same thing with tying in the bow sac to the center tank, so I would need a total of 6 of these valves. It wouldn't be that much more just to buy the thru hulls and pumps, and this would definitely be quicker! BTW, I did find a nice switch panel that would probably be very easy to mount. I was thinking I could re-route the existing switches to this one to make this the "ballast control panel".

Paul - What is the threaded fitting side on the stock MLS hard tanks? I saw that you have some elbows that are 3/4" barb by 1" threaded and they are "used with Malibu's MLS systems". Does that mean that the ports on the hard tanks are 1"? Have you seen any performance increase by running 1" hose from the pump to the hard tanks? Also, have you seen any difference by splitting the 2 fill pumps - starboard and center - to their own thru hull pick ups? Right now, there is a single 3/4" thru hull that is split to the two pumps. It seems that this design would decrease the flow rate to the two tanks if you try to fill both at the same time (I think this is typical). I don't want to drill a new thru hull if there is no appreciable difference, though.

wait a second why do you need six diverter valves? you only need 2 for the rear and one for the front if thats the method you use.. see diagram below..

post-3478-1226429127_thumb.jpg

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yes I am adding new drain pumps for the baggs but they Y into the existing drain and vent lines in my drawing I show that with check valves but after talking with the dealer I found out you dont need the checks as the force of water takes the easy path I.E. out of the boat..

liljohn - Sounds good. So, you will need a total of 4 diverter valves. I just checked at the Bakes site, and these are $46 each! That's $184 just for the valves. Wow! I would probably do the same thing with tying in the bow sac to the center tank, so I would need a total of 6 of these valves. It wouldn't be that much more just to buy the thru hulls and pumps, and this would definitely be quicker! BTW, I did find a nice switch panel that would probably be very easy to mount. I was thinking I could re-route the existing switches to this one to make this the "ballast control panel".

Paul - What is the threaded fitting side on the stock MLS hard tanks? I saw that you have some elbows that are 3/4" barb by 1" threaded and they are "used with Malibu's MLS systems". Does that mean that the ports on the hard tanks are 1"? Have you seen any performance increase by running 1" hose from the pump to the hard tanks? Also, have you seen any difference by splitting the 2 fill pumps - starboard and center - to their own thru hull pick ups? Right now, there is a single 3/4" thru hull that is split to the two pumps. It seems that this design would decrease the flow rate to the two tanks if you try to fill both at the same time (I think this is typical). I don't want to drill a new thru hull if there is no appreciable difference, though.

wait a second why do you need six diverter valves? you only need 2 for the rear and one for the front if thats the method you use.. see diagram below..

I misunderstood. I thought you were going to put the diverter valve on the drain lines as well to choose which you wanted to drain. When I read your last post again, I see that you are only tying the two drain lines together using the Y adapter. My bad. I didn't see the Y adapters at Bakes. What is the cost on those?

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They have them there just not on the site yet. My goal is to make a complete list of parts and photo the install to make it easy on every one. who follows. it is a time consuming install but easy and not worth having the dealer do. give paul a call he can get you a price on the Y. there pretty cheap.

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They have them there just not on the site yet. My goal is to make a complete list of parts and photo the install to make it easy on every one. who follows. it is a time consuming install but easy and not worth having the dealer do. give paul a call he can get you a price on the Y. there pretty cheap.

That sounds like an amazing idea. Sounds like that will give me something to take to my dealer once i break something... "Heres what I was trying to do....... Please fix it". Ive got a feeling you guys are a little more hands on than I am, but I gotta learn somehow.

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They have them there just not on the site yet. My goal is to make a complete list of parts and photo the install to make it easy on every one. who follows. it is a time consuming install but easy and not worth having the dealer do. give paul a call he can get you a price on the Y. there pretty cheap.

That sounds like an amazing idea. Sounds like that will give me something to take to my dealer once i break something... "Heres what I was trying to do....... Please fix it". Ive got a feeling you guys are a little more hands on than I am, but I gotta learn somehow.

lmao... ROFL.gif Calexan If you can turn a screw driver and pull the trigger on a drill we can get your baggs plumbed in before the winter is over. Besides doing it your self will give you a smile every time someone says hey thats a nice install. When your dealer says that just smile back and say thanks.

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yes I am adding new drain pumps for the baggs but they Y into the existing drain and vent lines in my drawing I show that with check valves but after talking with the dealer I found out you dont need the checks as the force of water takes the easy path I.E. out of the boat..

liljohn - Sounds good. So, you will need a total of 4 diverter valves. I just checked at the Bakes site, and these are $46 each! That's $184 just for the valves. Wow! I would probably do the same thing with tying in the bow sac to the center tank, so I would need a total of 6 of these valves. It wouldn't be that much more just to buy the thru hulls and pumps, and this would definitely be quicker! BTW, I did find a nice switch panel that would probably be very easy to mount. I was thinking I could re-route the existing switches to this one to make this the "ballast control panel".

Paul - What is the threaded fitting side on the stock MLS hard tanks? I saw that you have some elbows that are 3/4" barb by 1" threaded and they are "used with Malibu's MLS systems". Does that mean that the ports on the hard tanks are 1"? Have you seen any performance increase by running 1" hose from the pump to the hard tanks? Also, have you seen any difference by splitting the 2 fill pumps - starboard and center - to their own thru hull pick ups? Right now, there is a single 3/4" thru hull that is split to the two pumps. It seems that this design would decrease the flow rate to the two tanks if you try to fill both at the same time (I think this is typical). I don't want to drill a new thru hull if there is no appreciable difference, though.

wait a second why do you need six diverter valves? you only need 2 for the rear and one for the front if thats the method you use.. see diagram below..

I misunderstood. I thought you were going to put the diverter valve on the drain lines as well to choose which you wanted to drain. When I read your last post again, I see that you are only tying the two drain lines together using the Y adapter. My bad. I didn't see the Y adapters at Bakes. What is the cost on those?

liljohn -

Has your dealer heard of anyone having the siphoning/draining issues reported here and here? Based on your dealer's design, I would expect this to happen if you use a larger bag like the 750#. That is, if the top of the water in the bag is higher than the drain port on the side of the boat, the column of water out the drain line of the bag will push the water out. And then the siphon takes hold and drains the bag! Will you just be sure not to fill the bag completely or install a ball valve on the drain line? Or nothing?

I would think this could also happen on the vent line from the bag as the boat rocks and some water gets pushed out the line. It could create a siphon and drain the bag.

Just wanted to hear if anyone with this design has encountered this, too.

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Has anyone timed how long it takes to fill each ballast tank in a Wakesetter VLX (preferrably 04-08) with just the stock equipment - pumps, lines, tanks? I will be making modifications to my boat this winter, including upgrading lines and pumps, and just wanted a baseline to compare to. It is full winter here in Michigan, so I won't have a chance to drop the boat in the water to get this info before I do the upgrades.

I am also very interested to know if there is any performance hit due to the starboard and center pumps sharing the same 3/4" thru hull? That is, when you fill both tanks at the same time, does it fill each slower than if you filled them individually? It would seem that there would be a degradation in fill time, but just remembering back to last summer, I am not sure there was. I usually surf, so I typically fill one of the rear tanks and the center, so it is difficult to gauge based on this. I have filled all 3 at the same time, though, and it seemed as though both rear tanks finished at about the same time. If you don't have actual data, just your recollection would be great!

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Has anyone timed how long it takes to fill each ballast tank in a Wakesetter VLX (preferrably 04-08) with just the stock equipment - pumps, lines, tanks? I will be making modifications to my boat this winter, including upgrading lines and pumps, and just wanted a baseline to compare to. It is full winter here in Michigan, so I won't have a chance to drop the boat in the water to get this info before I do the upgrades.

I am also very interested to know if there is any performance hit due to the starboard and center pumps sharing the same 3/4" thru hull? That is, when you fill both tanks at the same time, does it fill each slower than if you filled them individually? It would seem that there would be a degradation in fill time, but just remembering back to last summer, I am not sure there was. I usually surf, so I typically fill one of the rear tanks and the center, so it is difficult to gauge based on this. I have filled all 3 at the same time, though, and it seemed as though both rear tanks finished at about the same time. If you don't have actual data, just your recollection would be great!

i think both rear tanks would fill in the same amount of time as they are filled by separate pumps. I am not sure of the fill times but i do know they fill way quicker than a 750 fills using a 1200 gph tsunami that you throw over the side of the boat.

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Has anyone timed how long it takes to fill each ballast tank in a Wakesetter VLX (preferrably 04-08) with just the stock equipment - pumps, lines, tanks? I will be making modifications to my boat this winter, including upgrading lines and pumps, and just wanted a baseline to compare to. It is full winter here in Michigan, so I won't have a chance to drop the boat in the water to get this info before I do the upgrades.

I am also very interested to know if there is any performance hit due to the starboard and center pumps sharing the same 3/4" thru hull? That is, when you fill both tanks at the same time, does it fill each slower than if you filled them individually? It would seem that there would be a degradation in fill time, but just remembering back to last summer, I am not sure there was. I usually surf, so I typically fill one of the rear tanks and the center, so it is difficult to gauge based on this. I have filled all 3 at the same time, though, and it seemed as though both rear tanks finished at about the same time. If you don't have actual data, just your recollection would be great!

Im not sure what you mean here, all my pumps have there own inlet. You have two pumps on one inlet?

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yes I am adding new drain pumps for the baggs but they Y into the existing drain and vent lines in my drawing I show that with check valves but after talking with the dealer I found out you dont need the checks as the force of water takes the easy path I.E. out of the boat..

liljohn - Sounds good. So, you will need a total of 4 diverter valves. I just checked at the Bakes site, and these are $46 each! That's $184 just for the valves. Wow! I would probably do the same thing with tying in the bow sac to the center tank, so I would need a total of 6 of these valves. It wouldn't be that much more just to buy the thru hulls and pumps, and this would definitely be quicker! BTW, I did find a nice switch panel that would probably be very easy to mount. I was thinking I could re-route the existing switches to this one to make this the "ballast control panel".

Paul - What is the threaded fitting side on the stock MLS hard tanks? I saw that you have some elbows that are 3/4" barb by 1" threaded and they are "used with Malibu's MLS systems". Does that mean that the ports on the hard tanks are 1"? Have you seen any performance increase by running 1" hose from the pump to the hard tanks? Also, have you seen any difference by splitting the 2 fill pumps - starboard and center - to their own thru hull pick ups? Right now, there is a single 3/4" thru hull that is split to the two pumps. It seems that this design would decrease the flow rate to the two tanks if you try to fill both at the same time (I think this is typical). I don't want to drill a new thru hull if there is no appreciable difference, though.

wait a second why do you need six diverter valves? you only need 2 for the rear and one for the front if thats the method you use.. see diagram below..

I misunderstood. I thought you were going to put the diverter valve on the drain lines as well to choose which you wanted to drain. When I read your last post again, I see that you are only tying the two drain lines together using the Y adapter. My bad. I didn't see the Y adapters at Bakes. What is the cost on those?

liljohn -

Has your dealer heard of anyone having the siphoning/draining issues reported here and here? Based on your dealer's design, I would expect this to happen if you use a larger bag like the 750#. That is, if the top of the water in the bag is higher than the drain port on the side of the boat, the column of water out the drain line of the bag will push the water out. And then the siphon takes hold and drains the bag! Will you just be sure not to fill the bag completely or install a ball valve on the drain line? Or nothing?

I would think this could also happen on the vent line from the bag as the boat rocks and some water gets pushed out the line. It could create a siphon and drain the bag.

Just wanted to hear if anyone with this design has encountered this, too.

siphoning is not an issue loop the lines under gunnel and add one of these( http://www.bakesonline.com/searchresult.aspx?CategoryID=526 ) at the top of the line. It wii create an air gap and break the siphon.

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That anti siphon valve is pretty cool. My fill hose is 1". Who makes those? I need the 1" version.

I've seen them by Forespar and Marelon. Here is the 1" version and here is a 1" version with an integrated check valve.

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Has anyone timed how long it takes to fill each ballast tank in a Wakesetter VLX (preferrably 04-08) with just the stock equipment - pumps, lines, tanks? I will be making modifications to my boat this winter, including upgrading lines and pumps, and just wanted a baseline to compare to. It is full winter here in Michigan, so I won't have a chance to drop the boat in the water to get this info before I do the upgrades.

I am also very interested to know if there is any performance hit due to the starboard and center pumps sharing the same 3/4" thru hull? That is, when you fill both tanks at the same time, does it fill each slower than if you filled them individually? It would seem that there would be a degradation in fill time, but just remembering back to last summer, I am not sure there was. I usually surf, so I typically fill one of the rear tanks and the center, so it is difficult to gauge based on this. I have filled all 3 at the same time, though, and it seemed as though both rear tanks finished at about the same time. If you don't have actual data, just your recollection would be great!

Im not sure what you mean here, all my pumps have there own inlet. You have two pumps on one inlet?

Yes. My starboard rear and center fill pumps are on a tee pulling water from the same 3/4" inlet. I'm going up to our place this weekend, so I'll get a picture of this.

Edited by kernaltao
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Has anyone timed how long it takes to fill each ballast tank in a Wakesetter VLX (preferrably 04-08) with just the stock equipment - pumps, lines, tanks? I will be making modifications to my boat this winter, including upgrading lines and pumps, and just wanted a baseline to compare to. It is full winter here in Michigan, so I won't have a chance to drop the boat in the water to get this info before I do the upgrades.

I am also very interested to know if there is any performance hit due to the starboard and center pumps sharing the same 3/4" thru hull? That is, when you fill both tanks at the same time, does it fill each slower than if you filled them individually? It would seem that there would be a degradation in fill time, but just remembering back to last summer, I am not sure there was. I usually surf, so I typically fill one of the rear tanks and the center, so it is difficult to gauge based on this. I have filled all 3 at the same time, though, and it seemed as though both rear tanks finished at about the same time. If you don't have actual data, just your recollection would be great!

Im not sure what you mean here, all my pumps have there own inlet. You have two pumps on one inlet?

Yes. My starboard rear and center fill pumps are on a tee pulling water from the same 3/4" inlet. I'm going up to our place this weekend, so I'll get a picture of this.

That seems like it would be a problem for sure. I think i would put both rear tanks on the tee and have the center on its own.

I never pull the plug in the rear by the tranny so i am going to add a pump there to fill my 750. then add a pump to the 750 to drain out of the same thru hull as the rear tank vent, with some one way valves to keep from having backflow.

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Has anyone timed how long it takes to fill each ballast tank in a Wakesetter VLX (preferrably 04-08) with just the stock equipment - pumps, lines, tanks? I will be making modifications to my boat this winter, including upgrading lines and pumps, and just wanted a baseline to compare to. It is full winter here in Michigan, so I won't have a chance to drop the boat in the water to get this info before I do the upgrades.

I am also very interested to know if there is any performance hit due to the starboard and center pumps sharing the same 3/4" thru hull? That is, when you fill both tanks at the same time, does it fill each slower than if you filled them individually? It would seem that there would be a degradation in fill time, but just remembering back to last summer, I am not sure there was. I usually surf, so I typically fill one of the rear tanks and the center, so it is difficult to gauge based on this. I have filled all 3 at the same time, though, and it seemed as though both rear tanks finished at about the same time. If you don't have actual data, just your recollection would be great!

Im not sure what you mean here, all my pumps have there own inlet. You have two pumps on one inlet?

Yes. My starboard rear and center fill pumps are on a tee pulling water from the same 3/4" inlet. I'm going up to our place this weekend, so I'll get a picture of this.

That seems like it would be a problem for sure. I think i would put both rear tanks on the tee and have the center on its own.

I never pull the plug in the rear by the tranny so i am going to add a pump there to fill my 750. then add a pump to the 750 to drain out of the same thru hull as the rear tank vent, with some one way valves to keep from having backflow.

I use that thru hull to change the oil (run drain tube out that hole). If you have your dealer change your oil, they may do the same thing, so you may want to check with them.

When I go up north this weekend, I am going to see if I can mount the center pump in the drain plug by the bilge (in the floor at the center of the boat by the driver's seat). I remember this is quite tight, but I am hopeful! I am thinking of splitting the output to 3 valves: 1 to the center tank, 1 to the port bow fat sac and 1 to the stbd bow fat sac. I am putting 350# ski locker sacs in the bow - 1 on each side. Again, I'm worried space may be too tight, though, to get the pump and valves in the floor access. If I can, it will be sweet, though, as I wouldn't have to run new pumps, drill any thru hulls, or run new switches. I just open the hatch and choose which tank I want to fill.

I think I am going with liljohn's design with a few tweaks: I will upgrade the fill pumps for faster fills. I will create the valves with PVC rather than purchasing the $45 diverter valves. I can make the same thing for about $15. I will put a tee on the drain port of the hard tank and run the drain line from the fat sac to this. That way, the same pump will drain both the hard tank and the fat sac. Also, while filling, I will leave both valves open so that water is pushed to both the hard tank and the fat sac. The water going into the fat sac will actually drain into the tank through the drain line into this tee, so the hard tank will fill first. When the hard tank is full, the water will take the path of least resistance, which will be into the fat sac. It won't start venting until the fat sac is full. I will tie the vent lines from both together through the same thru hull, though, so the hard tank can vent, if needed. I will do a similar setup with the bow sacs, but since there are two, and I may want to drain them independently, so I will put valves in each drain line coming from the sacs. Again, I am hoping to get these valves in the floor access for easy accessibility.

With this design, I won't have to mess with the valves for the rear fill unless I only want to fill the hard tanks and not the fat sacs. When filling or draining the bow sacs, I will just need to open the hatch and use the valves to determine which I want to fill/drain. The center tank will always drain when the pump is activated, but the sacs will drain into the tank. In effect, the sacs will drain first and then the hard tank. That way, I can keep the center tank full and just empty one of the sacs (for example, when switching sides for surfing).

I have an updated design I am working on. When I think it is complete (after inspecting the boat this weekend), I will post it.

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