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winterization list


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Do you know where that winterization checklist went that used to be stickied up at the top of the pages? I even searched for it and can't find it anymore.

Any help is appreciated.

thank you

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Do you know where that winterization checklist went that used to be stickied up at the top of the pages? I even searched for it and can't find it anymore.

Any help is appreciated.

thank you

I'm in the middle of a rather large & lengthy winterization article & I was going to include that as part of it. So it's down at the moment. But here's the complete list, until I get the article finished.

* Change fuel filter - arrow on filter pointing towards engine, away from gas tank

* Add fuel stabilizer - run engine for 10 minutes

* Change engine oil and filter

* Fog engine

* Drain engine block and all cooling lines

* Clean out transmission cooler screen

* Clean flame arrestor

* Blow out heater core with compressed air

* Add LowTox antifreeze to all lines

* Crank engine for a couple of seconds

* Change transmission fluid

* Change v-drive oil

* Grease steering cable and rudder

* Remove battery & check water level

* Remove ballast bags and dry

* Pour antifreeze in rear ballast tanks

* Scrub bilge and rinse with fresh water

* Clean & apply teak oil to swim platform

* 303 all vinyl

* Wash and wax boat and trailer

* Polish stainless steel & polished aluminum pieces

* Vacuum & shampoo carpet

* Windex & RainX glass

* Turn the steering wheel all the way to the left

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* Turn the steering wheel all the way to the left

Is there a reason for this? I'm getting my winterizing done this year (mucho $$ Cry.gif )because my boathouse lift isn't beefed up enough for the heavy boat. Hopefully next year I will do all of it myself and will need all the help I can get. I'm new to inboards.

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If you turn it all the way to the left, it pulls the exposed part of the cable into the sleeve & keeps it protected from the elements. I'm not sure how much good it actually does considering what it's exposed to when you're on the water, but it can't hurt. ;)

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Do you know where that winterization checklist went that used to be stickied up at the top of the pages? I even searched for it and can't find it anymore.

Any help is appreciated.

thank you

* Change fuel filter - arrow on filter pointing towards engine, away from gas tank

* Blow out heater core with compressed air

* Add LowTox antifreeze to all lines

* Pour antifreeze in rear ballast tanks

Fuel Filter - At school we were told this should be a spring item, after the engine is run for the first time if there is any sediment or water at the bottom of the tank the fuel filter is going to pick it up. Honestly for the DIY i would suggest changing it after running your first tank of gas for the maximum benefit all summer long.

Blowing Out heater core - If you have the "low RPM y fitting", make sure you disconnect BOTH heater core lines, if you only disconnect the one on top of the engine and blow the heater core out, it will put so much air pressure on the heater core you could possibly damage it. In order for the Y fitting to work correctly (venturi effect) it has a very small hole so when you try to push all that water thru the little hole it puts the core under a lot of pressure.

Anti Freeze - There is no such thing as environmentally friendly antifreeze that you can let go down the drain or let it go into the lake (if you start your engine in the water for the first time) So if you use anti-freeze please collect it and dispose of it properly.

The manual does give you some insight how to winterize and drain points so you can always start there too.

-Paul

Edited by Bakes Board & Ski
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I was told you can use marine antifreeze and it is environmentally friendly, just start it up in the water. I am a little skeptical on this but it is what I was told.

This has been going around the crew a lot lately, environmentally friendly doesn't mean it's safe. This is what it says on the back of the bottle "Sierra's propylene glycol formulation makes it less toxic than conventional ethylene glycol based antifreeze, so its safer for people, pets, and wildlife in the environment."

You can read more on the website: http://www.sierraantifreeze.com/benefit.html#2

I can't vouch for the pink RV stuff but the only difference between normal anti freeze and propylene glycol (Pink stuff) just means it safer, it's still hazardous and should be collected and disposed of properly.

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