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Winterization Modification


SunriseH2OSkier

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We just use gravity, no air pressure. The core is mounted up under the dash. And these lines are down in the bilge so it's all downhill.

Just a word of caution: My heater core will not drain entirely by gravity alone, because the core was originally mounted so that the hose nipples are actually near the top of the unit, rather than the bottom. This prevents water from draining out purely by gravity. Bill's might be mounted so that the nipples are at the bottom of the unit, so it works well. Just check to make sure yours is mounted the same way.

I'll also add that you don't want to use compressed air to blow out a heater core - at least not until the bulk of the water has already been drained. The core itself is not that strong, and you could actually cause it to burst.

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Just a word of caution: My heater core will not drain entirely by gravity alone, because the core was originally mounted so that the hose nipples are actually near the top of the unit, rather than the bottom. This prevents water from draining out purely by gravity. Bill's might be mounted so that the nipples are at the bottom of the unit, so it works well. Just check to make sure yours is mounted the same way.

I'll also add that you don't want to use compressed air to blow out a heater core - at least not until the bulk of the water has already been drained. The core itself is not that strong, and you could actually cause it to burst.

Thanks Guys. The reason I was asking as I was watching the tech winterize my boat. He took of the feed and return hose and actually blew on the feed hose until most water drained out the return hose. I was a little concerned with just using gravity as there could be some water lingering in the core that may need that extra push. If the boat had these attachements you could rely on gravity for the most part however a little air may be required. With a threaded attachment I thought the compressor would work nice but you are correct Sunrise they are not that strong so you could do more harm than damage.

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I blow on my heater line before I fill it with antifreeze.

I thought a low pressure blast of compressed air would make it quite easy. Especially with the threaded prestone conections Bill has it would make hooing up to the compressor a snap!

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  • 4 weeks later...

Mod complete! After searching the local auto store only to find that they were out of the Prestone flush kit I decided to go with brass quick connects. This will enable me inthe event of a leaky heater core to bypass the core (with the addition of a short connector hose). I will post pictures shortly!

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  • 2 weeks later...

Here is a picture of the connector hose, in the event the heater core goes I can simply attach disconnect the supply and return lines and join then together bypassing the core!

post-4887-006875100 1298184407_thumb.jpg

post-4887-046584800 1298184458_thumb.jpg

post-4887-079108800 1298184473_thumb.jpg

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Nicely done. I've been using the radiator flush Ts on 2 different boats over the last 10+ yrs. Probably "winterized" those boats 5 or 6 times every year. The key is that the fittings have to be "down hill" from the core so the water will drain. And make sure that your core is mounted so that the hose fittings are on the bottom (I actually had to flip mine over). I've never lost a heater core yet.

BTW, the only reason I like the Ts better than the quick release fittings is that I find it easier to remove or reinstall the cap on the T with 1 hand. I have a heck of a time putting the exhaust hose fittings back together with 1 hand. And find it even more difficult to get both my arms down there at the same time.

Edited by Bill_AirJunky
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Nicely done. I've been using the radiator flush Ts on 2 different boats over the last 10+ yrs. Probably "winterized" those boats 5 or 6 times every year. The key is that the fittings have to be "down hill" from the core so the water will drain. And make sure that your core is mounted so that the hose fittings are on the bottom (I actually had to flip mine over). I've never lost a heater core yet.

BTW, the only reason I like the Ts better than the quick release fittings is that I find it easier to remove or reinstall the cap on the T with 1 hand. I have a heck of a time putting the exhaust hose fittings back together with 1 hand. And find it even more difficult to get both my arms down there at the same time.

Yes I checked my hoses and they are on the bottom of the heater core..even better yet Malibu put the core on a bit of an angle so all water will drain to the bottom corner where the hoses are! I actually find it really easy to use one hand with these quick connects. It was a royal PIA to gain access to the return hose to install the connection so I wanted to make sure that I could easily do it with one hand. I think both methods will work quite nicely. Now I just need a good deal on a bilge heater!

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Yes I checked my hoses and they are on the bottom of the heater core..even better yet Malibu put the core on a bit of an angle so all water will drain to the bottom corner where the hoses are! I actually find it really easy to use one hand with these quick connects. It was a royal PIA to gain access to the return hose to install the connection so I wanted to make sure that I could easily do it with one hand. I think both methods will work quite nicely. Now I just need a good deal on a bilge heater!

Right on. Sounds like you will have your winterizing routine dialed in soon enough. :rockon:

Two bilge heaters that I know of. Xtreme (smaller & more expensive), and Boatsafe (a bit larger, but not as expensive). I picked up a Boatsafe Jr on Ebay for around $100 plus shipping. I have it bolted to the side panel in my Vride. I could remove it altogether in the summer but it's not in the way at all so I just leave it.

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Right on. Sounds like you will have your winterizing routine dialed in soon enough. :rockon:

Two bilge heaters that I know of. Xtreme (smaller & more expensive), and Boatsafe (a bit larger, but not as expensive). I picked up a Boatsafe Jr on Ebay for around $100 plus shipping. I have it bolted to the side panel in my Vride. I could remove it altogether in the summer but it's not in the way at all so I just leave it.

$100..I like that price. I was looking at the Extreme but it comes with an extreme price. Do you have a link for the Boatsafe Jr on Ebay?

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Yea, all I'm seeing on Ebay today is new ones for around list price. If yousearch completed listingsthere were a few others that either didn't sell or sold for under $200. In fact, I see an Xtreme that sold for $227.

It's just one of those things you have to watch for. And search for different things, eg; "boatsafe", "bilge heater", "xtreme", etc. And then use Auctionsniper.com to get it at bargain prices! :rockon:

BTW, i'm still watching for a box anchor. I have a galvanized fluke that does OK. But based on what people on this site have said, for the right deal I'd jump on a box anchor in a heartbeat.

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Yea, all I'm seeing on Ebay today is new ones for around list price. If yousearch completed listingsthere were a few others that either didn't sell or sold for under $200. In fact, I see an Xtreme that sold for $227.

It's just one of those things you have to watch for. And search for different things, eg; "boatsafe", "bilge heater", "xtreme", etc. And then use Auctionsniper.com to get it at bargain prices! :rockon:

BTW, i'm still watching for a box anchor. I have a galvanized fluke that does OK. But based on what people on this site have said, for the right deal I'd jump on a box anchor in a heartbeat.

Thanks Bill. Perhaps Paul will offer up a crew discount over the summer months! Any pictures of the install? I as curious to know where you mounted it.

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  • 7 months later...

Order list:

2 each 6739K62 Hose Couplings for Coolant Sleeve-Lck Sckt X Barb for 3/8" Cplg Sz, 3/8" Hose ID $6.18 each 12.36

3 each 6739K57 Hose Couplings for Coolant Plug, 3/8" NPTF Male, 3/8" Coupling Size $1.14 each 3.42

1 pack 5346K55 Brass Barbed Hose Fitting Adapter for 3/8" Hose ID X 3/8" NPTF Female Pipe, packs of 5 $8.16 pack 8.16

2 sets 71095T9 Quick-Disconnect Garden Hose Brass Fitting w/o Shutoff Valve, 1 Female Socket and 1 Male Plug $8.95 set 17.90

1 set 71095T11 Quick-Disconnect Garden Hose Brass Fitting W/Shut Off Valve, 1 Female Socket & 1 Male Plug $8.71 set 8.71

Merchandise total

$50.55

Don't waste your time running around to Lowes or Home Depot has they don't have everything. This list has a few changes to the previous list of parts.

-The (3) 3/8" NPTF Male Plugs along with the pack of 5 Barbed 3/8" fittings gets you covered for the AF hose pickup

-The Garden Hose disconnect with shut off valve eliminates the optional garden hose shut off valve while still accomplishing the same thing (one less piece).

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  • 2 weeks later...

Order list:

2 each 6739K62 Hose Couplings for Coolant Sleeve-Lck Sckt X Barb for 3/8" Cplg Sz, 3/8" Hose ID $6.18 each 12.36

3 each 6739K57 Hose Couplings for Coolant Plug, 3/8" NPTF Male, 3/8" Coupling Size $1.14 each 3.42

1 pack 5346K55 Brass Barbed Hose Fitting Adapter for 3/8" Hose ID X 3/8" NPTF Female Pipe, packs of 5 $8.16 pack 8.16

2 sets 71095T9 Quick-Disconnect Garden Hose Brass Fitting w/o Shutoff Valve, 1 Female Socket and 1 Male Plug $8.95 set 17.90

1 set 71095T11 Quick-Disconnect Garden Hose Brass Fitting W/Shut Off Valve, 1 Female Socket & 1 Male Plug $8.71 set 8.71

Merchandise total

$50.55

Don't waste your time running around to Lowes or Home Depot has they don't have everything. This list has a few changes to the previous list of parts.

-The (3) 3/8" NPTF Male Plugs along with the pack of 5 Barbed 3/8" fittings gets you covered for the AF hose pickup

-The Garden Hose disconnect with shut off valve eliminates the optional garden hose shut off valve while still accomplishing the same thing (one less piece).

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Order list:

2 each 6739K62 Hose Couplings for Coolant Sleeve-Lck Sckt X Barb for 3/8" Cplg Sz, 3/8" Hose ID $6.18 each 12.36

3 each 6739K57 Hose Couplings for Coolant Plug, 3/8" NPTF Male, 3/8" Coupling Size $1.14 each 3.42

1 pack 5346K55 Brass Barbed Hose Fitting Adapter for 3/8" Hose ID X 3/8" NPTF Female Pipe, packs of 5 $8.16 pack 8.16

2 sets 71095T9 Quick-Disconnect Garden Hose Brass Fitting w/o Shutoff Valve, 1 Female Socket and 1 Male Plug $8.95 set 17.90

1 set 71095T11 Quick-Disconnect Garden Hose Brass Fitting W/Shut Off Valve, 1 Female Socket & 1 Male Plug $8.71 set 8.71

Merchandise total

$50.55

Don't waste your time running around to Lowes or Home Depot has they don't have everything. This list has a few changes to the previous list of parts.

-The (3) 3/8" NPTF Male Plugs along with the pack of 5 Barbed 3/8" fittings gets you covered for the AF hose pickup

-The Garden Hose disconnect with shut off valve eliminates the optional garden hose shut off valve while still accomplishing the same thing (one less piece).

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  • 1 month later...

Is the water port on the top of the motor the hot for the shower? Or is it the one on the side of the water pump. Does anyone have an oppinion on the 1 1/4 x 5/8 x1 1/4 tee heater craft sells with a smaller hole bored in the 5/8 side to create a vortec before the raw water pump for the cold water return for the heater

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  • 4 months later...

Order list:

2 each 6739K62 Hose Couplings for Coolant Sleeve-Lck Sckt X Barb for 3/8" Cplg Sz, 3/8" Hose ID $6.18 each 12.36

3 each 6739K57 Hose Couplings for Coolant Plug, 3/8" NPTF Male, 3/8" Coupling Size $1.14 each 3.42

1 pack 5346K55 Brass Barbed Hose Fitting Adapter for 3/8" Hose ID X 3/8" NPTF Female Pipe, packs of 5 $8.16 pack 8.16

2 sets 71095T9 Quick-Disconnect Garden Hose Brass Fitting w/o Shutoff Valve, 1 Female Socket and 1 Male Plug $8.95 set 17.90

1 set 71095T11 Quick-Disconnect Garden Hose Brass Fitting W/Shut Off Valve, 1 Female Socket & 1 Male Plug $8.71 set 8.71

Merchandise total

$50.55

Don't waste your time running around to Lowes or Home Depot has they don't have everything. This list has a few changes to the previous list of parts.

-The (3) 3/8" NPTF Male Plugs along with the pack of 5 Barbed 3/8" fittings gets you covered for the AF hose pickup

-The Garden Hose disconnect with shut off valve eliminates the optional garden hose shut off valve while still accomplishing the same thing (one less piece).

Any pictures of the final assembly?

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Is the water port on the top of the motor the hot for the shower? Or is it the one on the side of the water pump. Does anyone have an oppinion on the 1 1/4 x 5/8 x1 1/4 tee heater craft sells with a smaller hole bored in the 5/8 side to create a vortec before the raw water pump for the cold water return for the heater

I tapped into the water port on the top for my heater, but we may not have the same engine.

The "Tee" you are talking about is often called the "Y Pipe" on this message board. If you do a search you will find a lot about it. My opinion, and most on this board, is that the Y Pipe will help the heater give off more heat at idle by drawing the hot water through the heater core (when installed properly, prior to the raw water pump with the split in the "Y" pointing away from the raw water pump)

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  • 4 weeks later...
  • 2 years later...

I am going to tackle this mod soon. Am I correct to assume that quick connects with an automatic shut off valve are "bad news" for this project? I am guessing we need to be sure to get quick connects that do not have an automatic stop valve (like this one)

Also, can somebody assure me that all the air in the empty lines does no harm to the engine when you reconnect?

Thanks!

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