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Wedge


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On my manual wedge, there is 4 small what i will call "wing nuts" for pulling in the locking pins. Is this the stock design? My wedge bars are not exactly equal and once locked in place I need to put heavy pressure on the wedge to get the pins to unlock, with larger "wing nuts" or some other type of screws it may be easier to do while on the water.

Looking for suggestions.

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On my manual wedge, there is 4 small what i will call "wing nuts" for pulling in the locking pins. Is this the stock design? My wedge bars are not exactly equal and once locked in place I need to put heavy pressure on the wedge to get the pins to unlock, with larger "wing nuts" or some other type of screws it may be easier to do while on the water.

Looking for suggestions.

Yes, mine needed a bit extra "wiggle" to get the pins to release.

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On my manual wedge, there is 4 small what i will call "wing nuts" for pulling in the locking pins. Is this the stock design? My wedge bars are not exactly equal and once locked in place I need to put heavy pressure on the wedge to get the pins to unlock, with larger "wing nuts" or some other type of screws it may be easier to do while on the water.

Looking for suggestions.

Yes, mine needed a bit extra "wiggle" to get the pins to release.

Can that be done from on top?

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Yes, just open the trap door and hold the wedge up a bit and the release the rear set of pins.

That is do able, the problem is once down it cannot be released to up position. And I don't believe kids will be able to release while in water.

Has anyone come up with larger, improved "wing nuts". I am thinking that a longer rod type would allow better leverage and allow it to be released.

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Billbao - I've got the same issue and have been contemplating solutions that I could do over the winter. Once down, it's nearly impossible to bring back up without jumping in the water to do it. I'm planning on solving it with a power wedge on my next boat. But until that time comes, I was thinking the same thing about getting some threaded rod made up. Then I wanted to test some grease and possibly smooth filing/sanding the contact points between the wedge and brackets to get the wedge to move easier once I do get the spring bolts unlocked.

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On my RLX I had a similar problem and it ended up being the bar that the wing nuts are in. The bar was seperating from the wedge, I took the advice of my dealer and used a block of wood and a hammer to get it seated back in there again. After that I didn't have a problem.

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My VLX has always been the same way. When moving from the down position to up, you need to be in the water. Best way is that you have the last rider put it away before getting back in the boat... or if you forget then rock-paper-scissors to see who goes back in to get wet.

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My VLX has always been the same way. When moving from the down position to up, you need to be in the water. Best way is that you have the last rider put it away before getting back in the boat... or if you forget then rock-paper-scissors to see who goes back in to get wet.

Mine seams to be that the two bars running from the boat to the wedge aren't exactly straight, one seams just slightly bent so one side will lock in and the other will follow with a little pressure. When initiating the wedge from on top you can lock in the left side(that appears to be the highest bar) and the drivers side will lock in once the prop turns over.

I am thinking if I have a little more leverage via 1 1/2 - 2" type rod, I could give enough force to pull pins out of lock. I am looking for smooth rod that reduces down to threaded rod the size I need.

My wakeboarding kids are 5 and 9 so if I put wedge down, I will have to get wet to put up.

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If all the pieces are in the correct position, and it is still tight, just use a fine file and open up the hole in the mounting plate a little bit. This will not effect the operation and will remove the operator frustration.

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