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Motorbox Insulation


WakeGirl

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Has anybody gotten a weight for the amount of insulation used for the motor box? Any comments on how much noise was suppressed?

Shipping weight on my on my order was 6 (six) pounds. Roll of insulation and a can of adhesive. I had 20% more than I needed on the insulation, so 5 pounds is a safe estimate. This is from the McMaster website:

Acoustical Foam Absorbers Widely used to reduce noise levels within given spaces, these lightweight acoustical foams absorb sound waves through air cells in the material and then convert them into heat energy. A material's Noise Reduction Coefficient (NRC) represents the amount of sound it can absorb. The higher the NRC value, the more efficiently it absorbs sound; a material with an NRC value of 1 is the most sound-absorbing material you can get.

This polyether-based polyurethane foam resists breaking down in humid environments. Temperature range is -40° to +225° F. Cut with a utility knife. For indoor use. Color is dark gray, unless noted. Meets FMVSS-302.

Plain-back foams meet UL 94HBF. Adhesive-backed foams have a rubber adhesive with a temp. range of -40° to +160° F, unless noted.

Uncoated foam is ideal for environments where there is minimal dust, dirt, and grease.

Skinned foam is easy to clean and resists dust, dirt, and water due to the natural skin that forms on the top and bottom of the foam when it is processed.

Urethane-coated foam is protected from water, oil, and dirt.

Foil-faced foam reflects heat, is easy to clean, and restricts dust and dirt.

Reinforced foil-faced foam also reflects heat and keeps out dust, dirt, and water, but its layer of fiberglass mesh also provides additional reinforcement and tear resistance.

Please specify length. Maximum continuous length is 50 ft., except uncoated material which is 25 ft. 54" Width Plain Adhesive Back Backed Coating Thick. NRC Per Ft. Per Ft. Uncoated1"0.485692T15$10.215692T48$12.45Skinned 1/2"0.30__________5692T618.61Skinned1"0.755692T1310.665692T4912.58Urethane Coated1"0.655692T14º11.465692T51º13.09Foil Faced 1/2"0.25__________5692T628.50Foil Faced1"0.60buildTargetStr('TR1227;tr;PT12271')5692T3512.085692T5214.01Reinforced Foil Faced 1/2"0.25__________5692T639.57Reinforced Foil Faced1"0.605692T3613.115692T5314.49•Adhesive is acrylic with a temperature range of -40° to +200° F.ºUrethane coating is black; foam is dark gray.

The item I bought is 5692T35. I had considered skinned for the extra .15, but liked the thought of heat relfectivity. I haven't put it in the water yet so no idea on the effectiveness, but going by prior comments on this thread figured it will be worth it. I am also under $150 for the project.

Edit: well that text didn't come out looking very well. The material I used is rated at .60.

Edited by Michigan boarder
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Ordered the B-Quiet material Saturday, should be here in a day or two. As soon as I get the boat home from storage that will be my first project. Got the thicker version, it's gotta make a difference. Thanks for the info on it Dontw8.

Ed

My order came yesterday. I was really surprised at how thin the B-Quiet is, and I bought the heavier of the two weights. About the thickness of the padding under most ski bindings. But you all said it works and I trust the collective knowledge of the Crew.

Ed

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I ordered "FBK-1A Yachtman's Deluxe Peace And Quiet Kit" off the link in the article and I failed to pay attention to the size listed. It isn't going to be nearly enough. The shipping weight on that kit which is only about half of what i need is 17 lbs. It is pretty heavy stuff - there are two different types of foam sandwiched together and then foil faced. Is this stuff different than what everyone else orders? I have a db meter and I could take measurements if anyone wants them.

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I was just thinking about going to Lowes and picking up some insulation as ordering from the US probably wont be very cost effective. Then again I don't suspect I will be getting near the noise dampening quality than the stuff that is made to block sound so it might not even be worth it.

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I was just thinking about going to Lowes and picking up some insulation as ordering from the US probably wont be very cost effective. Then again I don't suspect I will be getting near the noise dampening quality than the stuff that is made to block sound so it might not even be worth it.

I dunno, the stuff I bought was sound rated and all that but pretty much looks like standard foam insulation. I really can't see much of a difference between it and pipe insulation we've used before. Then again, you're only doing it once.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...

how many square feet do i need to insulate my rlx? and i like the idea of the 1" stuff, but if it creates clearance issues, no worries, because i'll save 40 bucks per sheet.

i'm looking here: http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10001&storeId=11151&partNumber=216866&langId=-1

Edited by madchild
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  • 1 year later...

Did my motor box insulation yestersday during hurricane Irene. I used a 1/2" product (SDN-IVF1005MNSFT36 - $163 for a 4.5 x 8 ft. sheet from Jamestown Distributors) manufactured by a company called Soundown that has a layer of "mass loaded vinyl" sanwiched between two layers of foam with a mylar foil outer layer. It is a very high quality material, but also very heavy due to the inner vinyl layer, therefore I used the retainer pins with epoxy. I left the vent area above the cup holders open (for now, may try closing it off later) but totally wrapped the cup holders except for small drainholes at the bottom of each of them. Can't wait to get out this weekend to hear the difference.

Update!!

This sound insulation is really incredible and worth every penny to install. Don't know the decibel levels before and after, but much quieter and the cup holders are cooler as well. I had enough leftover material to insulate the floor panel over the silencers which helped as well.

Edited by Johcha
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  • 2 years later...

I did my 99 RLX a number of years ago with great results. I couldn't begin to recall where I got the material back then but I know it is 1 1/4" thick, foil faced and has a sound barrier film with different density foam layers. It was designed for yacht engine rooms. Works great but my only gripe would be that it made the engine box heavier than heck to lift.

Has anyone had experience with replacing the gas struts with something that will assist in lifting? I have no idea how to select another strut.

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Has anyone had experience with replacing the gas struts with something that will assist in lifting? I have no idea how to select another strut.

Almost too simple...just select your size and then your "force" as appropriate. I went up 10 lbs on my engine hatch due to it being so heavy. Was as simple as screwing them in. Way easier than I thought it would be. :)

http://www.spdhardware.com/catalog/GSNI%20Black%20Nitride%20Shaft%20Gas%20Spring

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  • 3 months later...

I don't see the kit listed on Overton's anymore. Is it still there?

Are there any newer opinions about which of the following might work the best (or if there is something else that is better):

  1. Noise control barrier material from West Marine. It's composed of multiple layers which seems like it would be better at absorbing sound but some are complaining that it seperates.
  2. McMaster-Carr part# 5692T35.
  3. Line-x.
  4. B-Quiet

The boat is a 1999 Malibu Response and the inside of the motor box is nice and smooth. The stuff from West Marine comes in a 32" x 54" x 1" sheet. Is this enough to do the inside of the motor box?

Edited by vernonreeve
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  • 1 year later...

Looking for a way to insulate the engine cover / motor box on a 23 XTi. It looks like this modifications has mostly been done on one piece motor boxes like the Response.

So my questions are:

1. Anyone insulted a XTi?

2. There are a number of older posts that reference materials that are on the market, but is there anything newer that is recommended?

3. How did you handle the tray that sits above the engine (insulation on the bottom side of the tray or above it on the underside of the cover)?

I installed Fresh Air Exhaust and the noise reduction was so crazy that now all I hear is the engine box noise.

Thanks in advance.

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I've been looking at the same thing recently. My thought was to pull the carpeting off the panels, coat with insulation, re-install the carpet.

The areas of concern are in front of the engine, there isn't a lot of room down by the water pump.

The top you'd want to do under the cover as not to block the heat from the pizza tray.

The rear is another interesting area, you have to do under the seat and around the seat base. Not hard but a lot of material.

I have access to some 1" armaflex sheet foam I was thinking of using. My concern is that it isn't flame rated, wouldn't want to be around that stuff in a fire God forbid.

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Just an FYI guys. Historically in this community, the XTI models seem to have greater instances of vapor lock, something inherent in the design on those boats. If it were me, I'd be hesitant to insulate one of those models any further for that reason. YMMV of course.

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Interesting. All the threads about vapor lock seem to be VD boats. I haven't experienced any symptoms of vapor lock (until I just typed that of course) but our weather is pretty cool here compared to most.

Thanks for the heads up.

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I think the reason that the threads that you've found about vapor lock are about vdrives is that Malibu hasn't produced the XTi since 20008, and they didn't sell that many of them even when they were building them. As a percentage at the time though, the XTi seemed to be far more prone to it.

Just speaking from what I saw posted back then. As I said, YMMV.

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vapor lock happens for most folks with an external fuel pump that sits in the engine compartment where it gets hot. In 07 they moved the VDrive pumps to the tank, eliminating the issue. But I don't know if they did it for DD's as well, that would be something you'd have to look into.

If you have an 04 with an external pump in the engine compartment, then you stand to have vapor lock issues if you seal everything up and keep the heat in. What I would do is insulate the dog box, but also insulate the fuel pump and lines at the same time to help combat that.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00029KC2K/

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004GNLGTQ/

Or, I've even seen some guys use foil tape over a foam drink koozie, for insulation in a pinch.

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We run the blower almost continuously unless we are cruising for an extended period. That may be helping us. But I've never had a vapor lock situation. If I ever develop that issue, I'll insulate and install a larger exhaust fan and smaller intake fan with fresh air blowing on the fuel delivery system. Maybe I'll install a big pro-mod hood scoop on my center deck over the engine to force air in, that'd be the coolest....

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