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Filter number for LCR engine?


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Hello,

I am making the grand attempt at changing my own oil this time around :)

What's the part number for the oil filter for a LCR 320? It's in a '07 vRide. 15W-40 oil I presume.

Also, where do you find the fogging oil at? Auto parts store?

Thanks!

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Hello,

I am making the grand attempt at changing my own oil this time around :)

What's the part number for the oil filter for a LCR 320? It's in a '07 vRide. 15W-40 oil I presume.

Also, where do you find the fogging oil at? Auto parts store?

Thanks!

Penzoil PZ3 or equivalent for the filter, as for the fogging oil, ANYWHERE... I think Walmart must even have some.

Edited by 1FootDan
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AC delco pf1812 and Rotella T 15-40 or 5-40 synthetic ~ 20-30 bucks

NOTE: Indmar OM states that synthethic oil should only be used after minimum 100hrs. How many hours so far on your 2007?

Edited by 1FootDan
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Helinut,

I purchased an '08 Vride with LCR back in April this year. I've already done two oil changes (including oil filter, tranny ATF, and v-drive ATF). This is where and what I use:

Oil Filter: Napa Gold 1069 (purchased at Napa Auto Parts)

ATF: Valvoline nonsynthetic (purchased at Napa Auto Parts)

Engine Oil: Chevron Delo 400 SAE 15W-40 (purchased at Costco, but I also saw it for more $$$ at Napa)

Fogging Oil: Sta-bil fogging oil purchased at Schuck's (you don't have to get sta-bil name brand)

Oil Extractor: Fluid Extractor Kit by MOELLER from West Marine (I purchased adaptors at Home Depot for connecting to the oil extraction tube on the engine)

When you remove the oil filter be sure to cut a plastic milk jug in half and place underneath. The used oil filter will drop into the milk jug and save a big mess. Also a good idea to line the whole area with paper towels or rags. When removing the oil filter also wrap a cotton cloth rag over the filter and then place the oil wrench over the rag. This gives you MUCH better grip on the filter and you are MUCH less likely to crush the oil filter when removing it.

Edited by Cory
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Well, I did get the boat winterized as far as draining everything yesterday. But I must know who the jacka$$ of an engineer was that decided to make the hose 6 inches too short to drain the oil! WTH man! Are you kidding me? The cap will just stick out the rear of the boat and vRides don't have a mid point drain plug.

So now I'll be looking to purchase a pump. What a pain in the arse! It's still cheaper than the dealer but why does it have to be such an adventure?!?

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Well, I did get the boat winterized as far as draining everything yesterday. But I must know who the jacka$$ of an engineer was that decided to make the hose 6 inches too short to drain the oil! WTH man! Are you kidding me? The cap will just stick out the rear of the boat and vRides don't have a mid point drain plug.

So now I'll be looking to purchase a pump. What a pain in the arse! It's still cheaper than the dealer but why does it have to be such an adventure?!?

Uhh, my boat has a drain on the port side of the engine just below the exhaust manifold.

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Well, I did get the boat winterized as far as draining everything yesterday. But I must know who the jacka$$ of an engineer was that decided to make the hose 6 inches too short to drain the oil! WTH man! Are you kidding me? The cap will just stick out the rear of the boat and vRides don't have a mid point drain plug.

So now I'll be looking to purchase a pump. What a pain in the arse! It's still cheaper than the dealer but why does it have to be such an adventure?!?

Uhh, my boat has a drain on the port side of the engine just below the exhaust manifold.

Do you have rear ballast? Cuz that's where my hole is for that ballast pump.

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Well, I did get the boat winterized as far as draining everything yesterday. But I must know who the jacka$$ of an engineer was that decided to make the hose 6 inches too short to drain the oil! WTH man! Are you kidding me? The cap will just stick out the rear of the boat and vRides don't have a mid point drain plug.

So now I'll be looking to purchase a pump. What a pain in the arse! It's still cheaper than the dealer but why does it have to be such an adventure?!?

Uhh, my boat has a drain on the port side of the engine just below the exhaust manifold.

Do you have rear ballast? Cuz that's where my hole is for that ballast pump.

Yep, but it was added after the fact and new holes were drilled.

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Well, I did get the boat winterized as far as draining everything yesterday. But I must know who the jacka$$ of an engineer was that decided to make the hose 6 inches too short to drain the oil! WTH man! Are you kidding me? The cap will just stick out the rear of the boat and vRides don't have a mid point drain plug.

So now I'll be looking to purchase a pump. What a pain in the arse! It's still cheaper than the dealer but why does it have to be such an adventure?!?

Uhh, my boat has a drain on the port side of the engine just below the exhaust manifold.

Do you have rear ballast? Cuz that's where my hole is for that ballast pump.

Yep, but it was added after the fact and new holes were drilled.

Ahh that's probably the difference. There is no holes other than the two ballast pumps and the holes for the speed and depth finder.

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You may want to check again...I have an 06 Vride with factory rear ballast and I have a drain plug on the passenger/port side under the exhaust manifold . It has a brass t handle. Look carefully because it is partially obscured by hoses that pass by it. My oil drain hose can be threaded through this hole and probably hangs out below my boat by at least two feet or so, making it pretty easy to access. I guess its possible that the factory forgot to put one in on your boat? Hope this is helpful...

Well, I did get the boat winterized as far as draining everything yesterday. But I must know who the jacka$$ of an engineer was that decided to make the hose 6 inches too short to drain the oil! WTH man! Are you kidding me? The cap will just stick out the rear of the boat and vRides don't have a mid point drain plug.

So now I'll be looking to purchase a pump. What a pain in the arse! It's still cheaper than the dealer but why does it have to be such an adventure?!?

Uhh, my boat has a drain on the port side of the engine just below the exhaust manifold.

Do you have rear ballast? Cuz that's where my hole is for that ballast pump.

Yep, but it was added after the fact and new holes were drilled.

Ahh that's probably the difference. There is no holes other than the two ballast pumps and the holes for the speed and depth finder.

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Well, I did get the boat winterized as far as draining everything yesterday. But I must know who the jacka$$ of an engineer was that decided to make the hose 6 inches too short to drain the oil! WTH man! Are you kidding me? The cap will just stick out the rear of the boat and vRides don't have a mid point drain plug.

So now I'll be looking to purchase a pump. What a pain in the arse! It's still cheaper than the dealer but why does it have to be such an adventure?!?

No adventure if you purchase the $50 oil extractor pump and $5 worth of fittings at Home Depot.

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Well, I did get the boat winterized as far as draining everything yesterday. But I must know who the jacka$$ of an engineer was that decided to make the hose 6 inches too short to drain the oil! WTH man! Are you kidding me? The cap will just stick out the rear of the boat and vRides don't have a mid point drain plug.

So now I'll be looking to purchase a pump. What a pain in the arse! It's still cheaper than the dealer but why does it have to be such an adventure?!?

No adventure if you purchase the $50 oil extractor pump and $5 worth of fittings at Home Depot.

You save 55$, you don't make a mess (drain the oil directly in your disposable recipient AKA last 4L oil container used to fill your block last time), you can do something else while it is drainning and you are sure to get it all out. I installed a drain kit on my Sanger DXII and when I removed the pan plug after I had pumped the oil out, there was still about 1/2 pint of oil that came out. What a mess...

My trick to remove the oil filter without making a mess is to losen it with an automotive oil filter tool (circular type, less than 10$) and once loose, I unscrew it using a plastic bag (grocery or kitchen type) to cover it. When it comes offf, it just drops in the bag. The problem with putting a container is that it will catch the oil spill, but it is when you remove it that you risk spilling it...

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I looked under the boat and there is NO other holes at all under the boat. Dealer looked at one of his vRides and it's not on it either. Anyone have an '07 vRide and can confirm that handle is there?

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I have an '08 Vride and there are only two drain holes in the entire boat-one midship with a T-handle and the rear drain plug. I do NOT have a drain hole back along side the engine as some of the VLX's seem to have.

As I said, the easiest way to change you oil is to purchase this fluid extractor from West Marine.

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/store...mp;classNum=170

One oil change and it pays for itself. You just suck the oil out over the top from the oil drain hose clipped on the side of the engine. It also works great for changing the tranny and v-drive units. I also used it to change the oil in my pressure washer. It is a great tool in the garage. The only caveat with this pump is that its capacity is 1L short of being able to hold all the oil in our engine. So, I have to "pump and dump" twice for one oil change.

Edited by Cory
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I have an 07 V-Ride and I DO have this T-handle brass drain plug.

I also HAVE the rear ballast tanks.

The hull drain is on the port side under the engine about in line where the brass drain plug is in the engine block.

NOTE: I found it easier to pump my oil out than use the drain. The T-handle hull plug was on so tight i couldn't get it out, and i didn't care to take a wrench to it.

oil extracter pumps are nice, and you can use it for your v-drive and tranny ATF fluid also.

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I have an 07 V-Ride and I DO have this T-handle brass drain plug.

I also HAVE the rear ballast tanks.

The hull drain is on the port side under the engine about in line where the brass drain plug is in the engine block.

NOTE: I found it easier to pump my oil out than use the drain. The T-handle hull plug was on so tight i couldn't get it out, and i didn't care to take a wrench to it.

oil extracter pumps are nice, and you can use it for your v-drive and tranny ATF fluid also.

I wonder why they stopped putting in that T-handle plug by the engine. I keep my boat on a lift all summer--I would have liked it for draining water over the coarse of the summer.

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I'll take pictures of the bottom of my boat. There are no other holes in it other than the two for the ballast pumps and the two for the depth finder and speed sensor. Very odd.

I plan on buying the oil pump. I like that I'll be able to use it for the tranny fluid too.

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Ack! $77.37 for that pump with shipping and tax! Anyone have just a bit cheaper solution?

If you do purchase this pump, you will need to go to the brass pipe fittings section at Home Depot/Lowes and purchase two adapters to convert from the garden hose thread on one of the adapters that come with the pump to the threads of the oil drain hose. I can't remember the thread sizes. But, if you take the oil drain hose cap into the store with you, you should be able to figure it out. Someone had posted a picture of the parts you need on here, but I can't find the post.

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Try this. Don't know what the reserve is though.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Moeller-Fluid-Extracto...1QQcmdZViewItem

this one looks even better since it has sufficient capacity for an entire oil change, but I can't vouch that this one will have the hose thread adapter.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Hand-Operat...sspagenameZWDVW

Edited by Cory
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The thread size is 1/4". Thanks for the heads up on the ebay auction. We'll see if it's a good day in 49 minutes. :)

If I recall (and I could be wrong) you need to get:

1) a 3/4" coarse thread to 1/2 pipe thread adapter; and

2) a 1/2" pipe thread to 1/4" pipe thread adapter.

Something like this anyway. When I was at the store, I found a couple of different routes between the 3/4" coarse thread to the 1/4" pipe thread. Of course you have to navigate the male-female (inside-outside threads) issues in that path as well. You'll figure it out.

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