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Winterizing Heater


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I winterized my 2008 vRide w/ LCR this weekend. I drained water from 7 locations:

1) drain bolt on port side of engine

2) drain bolt on starboard side of engine

3) hose connecting to transmission cooler

4) quick connect hose on front port side of engine

5) hose on top of engine that connects to a 90 degree spiggot (blew compressed air in this one)

6) hose that connects on top, rear, port side of engine (it's a short, large diameter hose)

7) hose that connects to the underside of the impeller pump

Q1: Just wonder where/how I winterize the heater? This may be asking too much, but a picture with an arrow pointing to the location to drain would be awesome!

Q2: I noticed a clear/white hose running along the starboard side of the engine that seemed to still have some water in it. Do I need to drain this hose some how?

Q3: My dealer was kind enough to teach me the above 7 locations to drain (marked them with a jiffy marker that day as he pointed them out). However, it would be nice to understand what it is I'm draining. What do items 4, 5, and 6 above each drain? When I blew air in item 5, water was pushed out item 7...

Thanks for any help.

Edited by Cory
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Using the search tool I found two important threads you should read.

This one is a sticky outlining a great mod to simplify heater winterizing.

And a thread where we were discussing this topic in the last few days, including a .pdf with other winterizing suggestions.

Edited by Bill_AirJunky
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To winterise my heater(s) I disconnect both hoses, blow air in both (one at a time of courese...) to get the most of the water out and then pour in plumbing antifreeze until I see it come out the other hose.

Edited by 1FootDan
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Installed a pair of flush Ts in the heater lines last night to help simplify this process. The end result is I don't have to remove the divider or empty the side compartment to get these hoses off. I just reach down between the serpentine belt & the muffler & remove these two caps.

I'm thinking about installing a T up by the core under the driver's dash too. This should help the drain effect from the core, plus I could easily pump anti-freeze in if needed.

post-821-1223497377_thumb.jpg

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Thanks guys! I figured it out. It turns out that item 5 above was in fact the hot water supply line for my heater and when I blew compressed air in it I was in fact draining the heater. When I blew the compressed air, the water was pushed out the fresh water intake (item 7).

My dealer (Bake's Marine) just explained to me what the above items are:

item 4: connects the exhaust manifolds and of course disconnecting the quick connect drains the exhaust manifolds

item 5: hot water supply line for the heater

item 6: drains the engine water circulation pump

item 7: fresh water supply

Bake's is going to start selling impeller pullers online in a day or two. I think I will purchase one start changing my impeller every year. http://www.bakesonline.com/

Also, the clear/white hose with water is a supply line to the transmission cooler. It is okay to have a little water left in their since it is a flexible hose.

Edited by Cory
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Here is maintenance, winterization, dewinterization list I personally created from my 2008 Vride with LCR.

Oil Change:

1. Connect garden hose to flush pro

2. Warm Engine

3. Remove oil plug on top of engine

4. Extract Engine Oil via oil drain hose

5. Extract Transmission & V-drive ATF oil via dip stick holes

6. Remove Oil filter (place cut off 1G milk jug below & oil absorption pads below that) and allow to drop into milk jug

7. Clip oil drain hose back on high point of engine

8. Replace new oil filter (Napa Gold 1069)

a. Fill ½ to ¾ full

b. Oil rubber gasket

9. Add engine oil Chevron Delo 400 SAE 15W-40 (service cat CI-4 PLUS)

10. Add ATF Oil (Valvoline is fine) to transmission & v-drive

11. Check oil levels, run engine, and recheck

Winterization:

1. Add fuel stabilizer to tank and run boat for 15 minutes

2. Perform oil change service above

3. Fog engine for 30 seconds at idle (remove spark arrestor)

4. Clean spark arrestor with brake cleaner or compressed air (spray inside out)

5. Drain Water at following 7 locations (I personally marked with ‘W’):

a. 2x brass nuts on either side of the bottom of engine (drains engine block)

b. Quick connect hose (near oil drain hose) (drains exhaust manifolds)

c. Drain Nut in bottom front of engine (or hose clamp, but nut is preferred) (drains transmission cooler & line running to impeller)

d. hose clamp on back of engine (drains engine water circulation pump)

e. hose clamp rear bottom of engine (drains fresh water intake and impeller pump)

f. hose clamp on top, rear, port side of engine; blow compressed air, will push water out fresh water intake (drains heater)

6. Spray WD40 over engine except pulleys & belts

7. Block Trailer (blocks on axel near tires)

8. Grease trailer bearings

9. Remove cushions

10. Insert fan and moisture crystals

Dewinterization:

1. Change impeller

2. Run engine for a few minutes to burn off WD40 (it will smoke), then wipe down engine with a rag

3. Check all seven locations for water leaks

Even Year Service:

1. Fuel filter (inside gas tank?)

2. Spark plugs

When Needed:

1. Engine Belt (alternator and water circulator pump)

2. ½ pump of grease to steering nipple (very bottom back of boat hidden from view) ***only do this if steering stiffens***

Purchase Items:

1. Oil filter Napa Gold 1069

2. Oil Chevron Delo 400 15W-40

3. Spark plugs

4. Fogger

5. Vavoline ATF (non synthetic)

6. Moisture Crystals

7. Brake Cleaner

Edited by Cory
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2x brass nuts on either side of the bottom of engine (drains engine block)

In the instructions listed above you have it listed as the brass nuts. Anybody know exactly what size that is? I know it is huge and in other listings it shows it as 3/4 inch. I am pretty certain it is bigger than that. I have a 2006 Monsoon 340. The knock sensors are attached and I need a deep socket that is big. I would bet it is close to an inch or more. Not enough room and leverage for an adjustable wrench.

I need to get one tomorrow morning and drain this bad boy. I drained the hoses and the manifolds, but I will be damned. It is dark now and suppose to get to 30 degrees tonight. I know it has to sustain low temps for like 8 hours or something, so I think I am ok for tonight. But I want to get it out first thing in the morning. I will also call my local dealership that does my winterization to see if I can just bring it over, but I know there won't be any room. So I gotta be ready to run to lowes, Home depot or Sears.

Any help would be great.

You can respond here or email.... or [email protected]

Thanks!

Kevin

Edited by Cougar1
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2x brass nuts on either side of the bottom of engine (drains engine block)

In the instructions listed above you have it listed as the brass nuts. Anybody know exactly what size that is? I know it is huge and in other listings it shows it as 3/4 inch. I am pretty certain it is bigger than that. I have a 2006 Monsoon 340. The knock sensors are attached and I need a deep socket that is big. I would bet it is close to an inch or more. Not enough room and leverage for an adjustable wrench.

I need to get one tomorrow morning and drain this bad boy. I drained the hoses and the manifolds, but I will be damned. It is dark now and suppose to get to 30 degrees tonight. I know it has to sustain low temps for like 8 hours or something, so I think I am ok for tonight. But I want to get it out first thing in the morning. I will also call my local dealership that does my winterization to see if I can just bring it over, but I know there won't be any room. So I gotta be ready to run to lowes, Home depot or Sears.

Any help would be great.

You can respond here or email.... or [email protected]

Thanks!

Kevin

Yes, it is a 1" socket and it has to be a deep socket. The nylock nut on the knock sensors is a 1/2 " socket.

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Kevin

Yes, it is a 1" socket and it has to be a deep socket. The nylock nut on the knock sensors is a 1/2 " socket.

Thanks so much!! That totally helped me get out a jam.

Thanks,

Kevin

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