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Monsoon Winterization guide?


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Newbie here... I did a search for winterization and found several posts referencing a missing monsoon guide. Can someone help a brother out? My old boat was a stern drive so this is all new to me!

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I sent out 4 copies to the people that PM'd for it. I hope you all got it.

I would have just attached it but, I can't attach PDF's here.

I especially like the comments on the last 2 pages.

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I sent out 4 copies to the people that PM'd for it. I hope you all got it.

I would have just attached it but, I can't attach PDF's here.

I especially like the comments on the last 2 pages.

Thank-you. I've been winterizing myself but sometimes it is a good thing to read the instructions!

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Hey guys,

I sent out another 5 copies today. Let me know what you think of it. I've only skimmed through it but, it seems pretty concise. I wish I knew who the author was.

BTW, I'll be leaving for a long weekend starting tomorrow in case anyone else asks for a copy, I'll send it Monday.

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Hey Pete,

Thanks for taking the time to send that to me & everyone else. It's very thourough & worth looking over, even if your familiar with your boat already.

But maybe I can help you share it a bit. Here is a link where you can download the .pdf file. Should make it easy to view & print for everyone.

Edited by Bill_AirJunky
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Sorry, I was unable to get Google Docs to share the file with everyone. So I moved it to another site. Give it a try now.

Great, thanks for posting it.

Question - thoughts on not winterizing?

Boat stays in garage, oil will need to be changed and Stabil added to fuel, but in a non-freezing environment, what if I pull it out and fire it up for 15 minutes every 30 days? Just curious on what everyone's thoughts are on that.

Ok, not that I am going to do this, because there will be a long stretch in there where boat is sitting, but I think it may be November before I winterize. Would like to push some late season sessions into October for sure.

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I don't see a problem with that. My boat can stand still for up to 2 months w/o running her until I dump it in the water at the lake and she always fires on the 3rd crank. I do keep a batt. tender on her.

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  • 3 weeks later...
Hey Pete,

Thanks for taking the time to send that to me & everyone else. It's very thourough & worth looking over, even if your familiar with your boat already.

But maybe I can help you share it a bit. Here is a link where you can download the .pdf file. Should make it easy to view & print for everyone.

Bill,

Do you know what to do if you have the shower and heater options. You manual is great. Thanks.

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If your not looking to run antifreeze through them, you can blow them out.

Heater: I have disconnected both heater hoses from the engine and blown it out, either compressed air or huff and puff.

Shower. I run the shower with the engine not running of course, until it stops pushing water. I disconnect all 3 hoses from the temperature control thingy with the 2 knobs on it. Sorry I don't know the technical name. drain those and see if you can blow through the one that supplies water to the shower, I think its the grey one if memory serves.

For me, more recently I have been running antifreeze through everything. But blowing them all out has worked for me in the past.

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Bill,

Do you know what to do if you have the shower and heater options. You manual is great. Thanks.

I'd love to take credit for that guide, but all I did was post it somewhere so we could all download it easily..... saves Pete from having to email it so often.

My shower has quick disconnects at the on/off knobs. I disconnect them & blow air back & forth through the hoses a few times till no water is coming out.

Heater isn't quite as easy. But here is a way to simplify it. Get a couple of the Prestone Radiator Flush kits from your local auto parts store. They have all the "flush Ts" in the package, several sizes to pick from. Under the floor of your boat, find the lowest point of your heater supply & return lines. Cut them & install the flush Ts in place. Now whenever you pull your drain plug, remove the caps from the flush Ts too. Gravity will make the heater drain into the bilge. You can also blow air through them to force more water out.

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With heaters and showers you really want to blow air at a minimum or the best way is to pump antifreeze through it. Gravity really won't drain all the water from inside the core, which is really the part that will break when it freezes.

I suggest using a drill pump from your local hardware store, and a garden hose coupler to a 5/8" barb fitting. Use this on one side to attach to either supply or return line going to the heater. Attach a short (shorter the better) hose to the intake side of the pump and stick it in a gallon jug of anti-freeze. Press go and pump the entire gallon through the heater core, and if you want right through the engine and out the block drain plugs. A v-drive may take a little more, but a gallon is a good size. Best way to ensure your heater stays solid for next spring.

Peter :)

Edited by SmoothWaterMan
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Sorry, I was unable to get Google Docs to share the file with everyone. So I moved it to another site. Give it a try now.

Great, thanks for posting it.

Question - thoughts on not winterizing?

Boat stays in garage, oil will need to be changed and Stabil added to fuel, but in a non-freezing environment, what if I pull it out and fire it up for 15 minutes every 30 days? Just curious on what everyone's thoughts are on that.

Ok, not that I am going to do this, because there will be a long stretch in there where boat is sitting, but I think it may be November before I winterize. Would like to push some late season sessions into October for sure.

I take all these steps for winterization, but I was also thinking about the need for draining the block when the boat is always garaged, and never gets to 32 degrees. With the engine cover, boat cover, garage surroundings, warm air from the house always sneaking into the garage via kitchen/garage access door, etc…I'm not sure the virtue of draining the block. I know that crud can build-up in the drain holes, but what other strong reasons/arguments for pulling the drain plugs considering these circumstances? (excessive rust/corrosion, others?)

One last question: If I change the oil with freshy and fog the boat before winter...but then have to change the oil again before opening season: what's the virtue of using new oil for winterization vs. leaving in the prior season's oil and fogging?

Any thoughts/advice/opinions?

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If you're sure that engine will not get below 32 and stay there for awhile, there's no need to drain the block and manifolds or anything else. As for the oil, I let the oil I was using all season stay in the motor and only change it at spring time before it's maiden voyage. I do fog the engine though.

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If you're sure that engine will not get below 32 and stay there for awhile, there's no need to drain the block and manifolds or anything else. As for the oil, I let the oil I was using all season stay in the motor and only change it at spring time before it's maiden voyage. I do fog the engine though.

I agree; thanks for seconding my opinion.

I've yet to hear the logic behind puting new oil in just before winter and letting it just sit for 5 months. Maybe someone can shed some light...?

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Somebody on here said recently that the old oil has acids in it that will (sort-of) do damage to the engine.

My theory is that there are particles and contaminates that remain suspended for a time in the oil. If the oil is allowed to sit all that ends up in the bottom of the pan, and consequently in the new oil. Of course if you start your engine prior to changing your oil it (and you should), it wont matter. Dontknow.gif

And yes Acids do develop in the old oil due mostly to blowby and moisture contamination.

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That sounds reasonable. I'm certainly not trying to be a tight-wade/cheapskate regarding a $20 oil change over an $18K boat. Just some logic that I am clearly unaware of. Thanks for the info.

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The guide I downloaded was for the older BU's, Is this the same for an 08? Also, what are the fluid types; Oil, Trans, and V drive?

Thanks

Check your owners manual. If you have a 340 Monsoon, then the oil is 15w-40. There is probably a large label on your V-Drive, I would expect it to be the same as the VTX, which is Mercon III, but I'd go look. The owners manual lists all the possible transmissions, so you have to go look in your boat to actually see what you have if you don't remember.

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