Changing propeller

[srab]

Okay, changed to Acme 381 in June 'cause we were almost exclusively

slalom skiing and gas was over 4 bucks/gallon. The 381 on my boat gives

a nice hole shot and tachs much lower at slalom speeds than the 537 that

I had on at the beginning of the summer, so I figured we might save a little

on gas.

Now we're also getting into surfing, so I decided to change back to the

537. It's only been two months, right? I had lubed the shaft liberally with some

special grease left over from my Mercruiser I/O days when I changed out

earlier this summer. And, I even tried the put-it-in-reverse-while-the-bow-is

tied-to-the-trailer thing (although I was in my slip, not on a trailer) before

I started. Still, with my Acme C-clamp prop tool, I spent a good 30 minutes

pinging away with a hammer before the prop broke loose. This is like the 4th

time I've changed props, and it's always the same hassle.

Should I just start off with a Bernz-o-matic? I'm out at a Marina, so hot water

is not really an option. Should I be using a different lubricant, and, if so, what?

Any other tips? Or, should I just use ear plugs and be more patient?

[Houston]

Don't know where you are "pinging". Once you've tightened the puller down, hit the puller behind the prop, hitting in direction toward stern. You will be striking the butt in the fork of the puller, the part of the puller that slides in behind the prop, forcing the prop down the shaft in the direction it slides off.

If that's what you were doing, keep doing it. Tighten puller real good, have a smoke, put in ear plugs if necessary, and have at it. Should come off in a few whacks.

I spent a long time laying behind my boat, pinging the prop towerd the bow before I realized this. Felt like a dummy when I crawled under boat and struck once toward stern and prop popped right off.

Good luck and let us know how it went.

[99response]

I've never had to add heat to a propeller to get it to come off.

Just tighten that puller as tight as you can and get out the hammer.

Then watch out!

-Chris

[vette-ski]

Don't know where you are "pinging". Once you've tightened the puller down, hit the puller behind the prop, hitting in direction toward stern. You will be striking the butt in the fork of the puller, the part of the puller that slides in behind the prop, forcing the prop down the shaft in the direction it slides off.

If that's what you were doing, keep doing it. Tighten puller real good, have a smoke, put in ear plugs if necessary, and have at it. Should come off in a few whacks.

I spent a long time laying behind my boat, pinging the prop towerd the bow before I realized this. Felt like a dummy when I crawled under boat and struck once toward stern and prop popped right off.

Good luck and let us know how it went.

That's not the way I do it. Anybody else want to give their opinion. I install the c-clamp, tighten the bolt on the clamp, and then strike the head of the bolt so I'm actually swinging toward the bow. I usually give it a couple whacks, tighten the bolt a little more, couple more whacks and it's off. It's the vibrations that removes the prop. You don't have to hit the prop backward off the shaft. At least I've never had to.

[srab]

Don't know where you are "pinging". Once you've tightened the puller down, hit the puller behind the prop, hitting in direction toward stern. You will be striking the butt in the fork of the puller, the part of the puller that slides in behind the prop, forcing the prop down the shaft in the direction it slides off.

Yep, that's exactly where I'm "pinging." And, I guess that if this were the first time changing

props in 3 summers, I'd expect it to take a bit of effort. Just didn't think I'd have to struggle

after only a couple of months since last prop change.

It took me, I'm guessing, about 50 whacks with the hammer, tightening the bolt on the

bottom side after every 5 or so, for it to finally break free.

I've got a torque wrench, but it's for socket fittings and I can't use it to tighten the nylock

nut for the prop. Maybe I'm over-tightening the nut when I put it on? I didn't think so, and

the nut itself comes off pretty easily.

Edited September 2, 2008 by srab

[srab]

I install the c-clamp, tighten the bolt on the clamp, and then strike the head of the bolt so I'm actually swinging toward the bow.

Thanks for the tip. Hadn't tried it your way 'cause it's a little counterintuitive, but, you're right,

it's the vibration that loosens the prop. I'm willing to give anything a try if it'll shorten the job.

Isn't it difficult to give the head of the bolt a square blow without hitting the rudder? And, if

you're coming in from an angle to avoid the rudder, do you not have trouble with the bolt slipping

a little off midline on the shaft/nylock nut (which ever you've got it resting on)?

Maybe that's part of my problem, come to think of it. I loosen the nylock prop nut so that

it is just at the end of the shaft, maybe a thread or two beyond. So, the lowermost

portion of the prop puller is actually tensioning against the nylock prop nut more than

the shaft itself. Maybe less vibration that way?

[bound4er]

Hit it with some PB Blaster, let it soak for 5 minutes, then try to remove. It should help a lot.

[Pistol Pete]

Just throwing this out there. Don't know if it will help or not.

Propeller_removal_and_installation.doc