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urgent on the lake need light


SVTHorsnake

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Theres a circuit breaker panel under the throttle. No fuses that I know of.

Thanks for the reply.

We ended up limping it home in the moonlight, which usually wouldn't have been a problem, but the lake is low right now and there are alot of newly-exposed hazards.

I know of that panel but it only houses a few of the accessorie breakers.

Problem: Front lights don't work, rears do. I was thinking there was a fuse somewhere in the line. The relay is clicking over, just that there's no current. Is there no fuse box on these boats?

Thanks again.

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Not that I know of. And frankly, those lights in front aren't worth much unless your docking the boat or pulling it up on a lift. Get yourself a good high power spot light.

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Not that I know of. And frankly, those lights in front aren't worth much unless your docking the boat or pulling it up on a lift. Get yourself a good high power spot light.

I have VisionX HID floods, facotry wiring though.

I just got off the phone with the dealership. He said there's a fuse box directly above the steering column (labeled "Control Module), and that, if I hear the relay clicking over, then he suspects it is one of those fuses burned out. I hope he's right.

Again, thanks for the reply. I'll report back what I find.

EDIT: that brings me to my next question:

Can I simply add the amperages listed on the factory fuse and the fuse that came with the HIDs to properly increase the current?

Edited by SVTHorsnake
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Interesting.... HIDS in there? I haven't seen that yet. I'd question whether or not the factory wiring could handle the additional amperage. Bet their nice & bright though!

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Not that I know of. And frankly, those lights in front aren't worth much unless your docking the boat or pulling it up on a lift. Get yourself a good high power spot light.

I have VisionX HID floods, facotry wiring though.

I just got off the phone with the dealership. He said there's a fuse box directly above the steering column (labeled "Control Module), and that, if I hear the relay clicking over, then he suspects it is one of those fuses burned out. I hope he's right.

Again, thanks for the reply. I'll report back what I find.

EDIT: that brings me to my next question:

Can I simply add the amperages listed on the factory fuse and the fuse that came with the HIDs to properly increase the current?

HIDS may be why the fuse is blown. They will draw a lot more current than the factory lights.

I would assume that the fuse in the fuse box is determined based on the Factory lights. Do you know what gage wire the factory uses for the tower lights? My guess is that they dont use any larger than required. To run those lights properly, you may need to rewire the tower with something heavier.

Fuse size will be limited to the wiring gage, so no you cannot just add the amperages together.

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Actually, while an HID bulb needs a higher voltage potential to ignite, the actual current draw will be lower than a comparable halogen bulb. If a high quality ballast is being used, he shouldn't need to make any changes.

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update: I looked at the fusebox, again to find it wasn't there either. It did some more looking and there's an inline fuse after the relay, and it was completely fried, housing and all. I'll be going to the fuse the ballast calls for and stick with the existing wiring. The balast has smaller guage by far than the factory lines, so I'm guessing it's sufficient, although neither display maximum ratings, so I'll be keeping an eye on them for the next while.

Will report soon with some fuse carnage p***.

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