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Bondo

Dripless Packing

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Bondo

Crew,

Couple questions, How big of a job is it to change to dripless packing on prop shaft? Where can I purchase it?

Can I change it on a 1998 Sporty LX?

Thanks in advance,

Bondo

Edited by Bondo

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wienrdog

Take a look at this step-by-step from 15-off. You may need (most likely) to drop your rudder to get the clearance you'll need to install. I believe m3fan had already removed his rudder to replace his strut bushings.

Also plan on checking and likely re-aligning the engine while you have the drive-shaft off.

Should be able to buy dripless system from ski-dim or direct from OJ.

You could also install a nearly dripless packing in your existing stuffing box.

Edited by wienrdog

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Bondo
Take a look at this step-by-step from 15-off. You may need (most likely) to drop your rudder to get the clearance you'll need to install. I believe m3fan had already removed his rudder to replace his strut bushings.

Also plan on checking and likely re-aligning the engine while you have the drive-shaft off.

Should be able to buy dripless system from ski-dim or direct from OJ.

You could also install a nearly dripless packing in your existing stuffing box.

Thank You,

Bondo

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Bondo
Take a look at this step-by-step from 15-off. You may need (most likely) to drop your rudder to get the clearance you'll need to install. I believe m3fan had already removed his rudder to replace his strut bushings.

Also plan on checking and likely re-aligning the engine while you have the drive-shaft off.

Should be able to buy dripless system from ski-dim or direct from OJ.

You could also install a nearly dripless packing in your existing stuffing box.

Thank You,

Bondo

Is there directions somewhere on here about using the "almost dripless packing" ? Would I still have to re-align the motor if I went this route?

Bondo

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RTS

You would install the 'almost' dripless packing the same way as the old style flax packing. Remove the old stuff, install the new stuff. No need to disassemble your boat, or realign the shaft. I'm sure it would come with instructions, and the people at skidim will tell you which packing you need for your boat if you call them.

I'm going to go this route this winter.

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Bondo
You would install the 'almost' dripless packing the same way as the old style flax packing. Remove the old stuff, install the new stuff. No need to disassemble your boat, or realign the shaft. I'm sure it would come with instructions, and the people at skidim will tell you which packing you need for your boat if you call them.

I'm going to go this route this winter.

Thank You

Bondo

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wienrdog

RTS got the process... They do include instructions, but they are basic...

A little more detail...

Remove old packing & then clean out all debris.

- It does take a while to dig all the old packing out - depending on how dry/compact it is.

- It's not easy to see or access because of motor & location. Packing is in the end of the nut, so you're looking back towards the engine along the drive shaft to remove it. You need to be a little cautious to not damage drive shaft while remove old packing. They make a corkscrew type tool to help with this - I used dental type tools.

- Clean off drive shaft well & check well for any burrs or flaws.

Cut 3 lenghts of the new packing using the drive shaft to measure it correctly

Install into nut cavity with seams at 90 or 120 degree angles from each other.

Reattach nut hand tight - much looser than you would expect.

Run for a few days, the adjust packing to barely dripping. Check occasionally to make sure shaft/nut are cool/warm instead of hot.

You don't have to re-align motor for the dripless install, but while you have the shaft disconnected & have taken the flange off/on, it makes sense to at least take the time to check it.

Edited by wienrdog

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SacRiverRat

My nuts are really tight :unsure: *Dumb question* can someone tell me which one is the locking nut, and which direction to loosen it (looking down the shaft towards the propeller)

Just don't want to be forcing the wrong nut, or going the wrong direction if it is reverse threads.

Thanks

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wienrdog

Thin nut is the locking nut - turn clockwise looking down the shaft towards propeller. You can verify that by looking at the threads - they are pretty big.... You are trying to move the thin nut away from the big nut - effectively 'tightening' it on the threads.

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Bondo
RTS got the process... They do include instructions, but they are basic...

A little more detail...

Remove old packing & then clean out all debris.

- It does take a while to dig all the old packing out - depending on how dry/compact it is.

- It's not easy to see or access because of motor & location. Packing is in the end of the nut, so you're looking back towards the engine along the drive shaft to remove it. You need to be a little cautious to not damage drive shaft while remove old packing. They make a corkscrew type tool to help with this - I used dental type tools.

- Clean off drive shaft well & check well for any burrs or flaws.

Cut 3 lenghts of the new packing using the drive shaft to measure it correctly

Install into nut cavity with seams at 90 or 120 degree angles from each other.

Reattach nut hand tight - much looser than you would expect.

Run for a few days, the adjust packing to barely dripping. Check occasionally to make sure shaft/nut are cool/warm instead of hot.

You don't have to re-align motor for the dripless install, but while you have the shaft disconnected & have taken the flange off/on, it makes sense to at least take the time to check it.

OK dumb question, I have the big Indmar service maunal for my boat. How do I make sure that the shaft is in proper alignment? The directions in the manual are a little fuzzy. I am supposed to slide something up to something and check with a feeler gage? Do you have any better instructions for this?

So to get this straight, when I replace the packing I should check the alignment, right? I have to disconnect the shaft to change packing? Sorry if I sound stupid, just want to do it right. There is no dealer with-in 500 miles of me. I suppose that the first time is the worst.

Again Thanks for all your help,

Bondo

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wienrdog

You don't have to disconnect the shaft to replace the current packing with the GFO/nearly dripless packing - so no alignment check necessary. You will loosen the thin jam nut & unscrew the big packing nut and slight it up the shaft & work with it that way.

If you are/were going to put in the OJ dripless shaft seal, then you'd likely have to pull rudder and drive shaft to have the room to replace it. It would make sense to check alignment when you put it all back together. See some instructions for pulling rudder/shaft in this thread.

If you search for alignment instructions you may be able to find some already available.

I'll be getting help to do an alignment on my DD this winter (after replacing shaft bushings) & can provide better feedback at that time.

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SacRiverRat
Thin nut is the locking nut - turn clockwise looking down the shaft towards propeller. You can verify that by looking at the threads - they are pretty big.... You are trying to move the thin nut away from the big nut - effectively 'tightening' it on the threads.

That is exactly what I needed, thank you. My issue is that with the V-Drive, it is all wedged under the oil pan, so you can't really see the threads. It is all you can do to get a wrench on the nuts... now I know where I'm headed Rockon.gif

Maybe I'll be able to shut off my auto-bilge rinse system ;)

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