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Rehabbing a 95 Echelon LX


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I can chime in on this, I did a very similar project. And I would actually recommend doing it the way you suggest, as that way you will have patience and so it properly taking breaks in between. It won't hurt the gel coat a bit as long as it is stored indoors.

Post pictures! I wish I would have like 95E, I just didn't take the time.

:plus1:

Took me six months in between hockey and stuff. If you get frustrated, walk away for the day. No big deal. Won't have any ill effects indoors, other than dust depending on the environment.

Mine is not as good as 95E's, but if it continues to bother me, winter is just around the corner. :whistle:

Good luck.

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  • 6 months later...

To tell someone to just start wet sanding with 600 grit is a bit misleading. 600 grit is the absolute worst case scenario of oxidation. Your boat only has a limited amount of gel coat on it and the more you sand and the more aggressive you sand - the quicker you will wear away the gelcoat thus limiting any future wetsanding treatments

The rule of thumb when restoring fiberglass is to start with the least aggressive treatment and then progress step by step towards more aggressive means.

Here is a very good thread on offshoreonly.com http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/fiberglass-paint/161709-wet-sanding-101-a.html

I have also used these products in the thread and they are top notch and very easy to use. I am not affiliated with MarineClean - but I do follow this method below and have had boaters offer me $$$ to do their boats.

We have to remember that each boat is a different situation and each will have different results.

I will give some examples of what you need to do the job.

You need 1500, 1200, 1000 and maybe 600-800 if it is that bad.

You need a sanding block/pad

You need Leverage Oxidation Remover or 3M Buffing Compound

You need a small bucket for water

You need a buffer with a wool pad

You need a mild wash solution

You need some clean Terry cloth towels

I would do a small area before you start to tackle the whole boat.

Make sure the surface is clean. Start with the wet 1500 on the block/pad. You don't need to apply a lot of pressure, let the paper do its job. Go in the same direction with maybe 10-15 strokes keeping the paper wet(you will see it removing the oxidation immediately) then wash the surface off. Then you can take a towel and dry the surface. From there you need to buff that area with my Oxidation Remover or 3M Buffing Compound. Then follow up the next day or two with Leverage Polish, Cleaner & UV Protectant.

I always start with a less abrasive grit. The 1500 is mild and is least likely for any mistakes. I would do that small area and see if you get the results with the 1500. If the paint is still faded then move down to 1200 and then 1000 if needed. After I finish with buffing I always wait until the next day or two before I apply my polish. I like to come back, look over my work and make sure I'm satisfied with my work before polishing.

I know this is somewhat of a quick list that might not address all of the questions, so ask away.

Donnie

BTW, My oxidation remover will also remove light scratches and 1000 grit sand marks

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To tell someone to just start wet sanding with 600 grit is a bit misleading. 600 grit is the absolute worst case scenario of oxidation. Your boat only has a limited amount of gel coat on it and the more you sand and the more aggressive you sand - the quicker you will wear away the gelcoat thus limiting any future wetsanding treatments

The rule of thumb when restoring fiberglass is to start with the least aggressive treatment and then progress step by step towards more aggressive means.

Here is a very good thread on offshoreonly.com http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/fiberglass-paint/161709-wet-sanding-101-a.html

I have also used these products in the thread and they are top notch and very easy to use. I am not affiliated with MarineClean - but I do follow this method below and have had boaters offer me $$$ to do their boats.

We have to remember that each boat is a different situation and each will have different results.

I will give some examples of what you need to do the job.

You need 1500, 1200, 1000 and maybe 600-800 if it is that bad.

You need a sanding block/pad

You need Leverage Oxidation Remover or 3M Buffing Compound

You need a small bucket for water

You need a buffer with a wool pad

You need a mild wash solution

You need some clean Terry cloth towels

I would do a small area before you start to tackle the whole boat.

Make sure the surface is clean. Start with the wet 1500 on the block/pad. You don't need to apply a lot of pressure, let the paper do its job. Go in the same direction with maybe 10-15 strokes keeping the paper wet(you will see it removing the oxidation immediately) then wash the surface off. Then you can take a towel and dry the surface. From there you need to buff that area with my Oxidation Remover or 3M Buffing Compound. Then follow up the next day or two with Leverage Polish, Cleaner & UV Protectant.

I always start with a less abrasive grit. The 1500 is mild and is least likely for any mistakes. I would do that small area and see if you get the results with the 1500. If the paint is still faded then move down to 1200 and then 1000 if needed. After I finish with buffing I always wait until the next day or two before I apply my polish. I like to come back, look over my work and make sure I'm satisfied with my work before polishing.

I know this is somewhat of a quick list that might not address all of the questions, so ask away.

Donnie

BTW, My oxidation remover will also remove light scratches and 1000 grit sand marks

Do auto part stores usally carry the buffing compound and polish that you're suggesting? If not where is the best place to get them?

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Do auto part stores usally carry the buffing compound and polish that you're suggesting? If not where is the best place to get them?

Yes, you should be able to get everything you need.

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  • 3 months later...

Early on in this thread it is mentioned to use a DA polisher to apply the wax/polish. Are there any alternatives to the $150+ models I see on listed various websites?

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Early on in this thread it is mentioned to use a DA polisher to apply the wax/polish. Are there any alternatives to the $150+ models I see on listed various websites?

I applied my polish with a rotary buffer... I always wax by hand.

Outcome is here...

Edited by Levi900RR
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I applied my polish with a rotary buffer... I always wax by hand.

Outcome is here...

Any recommendations on a decent rotary to buy? I don't have a rotary or a DA/orbital, but if you say you can wax by hand I will just buy a rotary.

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Any recommendations on a decent rotary to buy? I don't have a rotary or a DA/orbital, but if you say you can wax by hand I will just buy a rotary.

Mine is a old Milwalkee (not the beer) and I think it was pretty expensive. I have read on here that Harbor Freight sells one that is pretty good and inexpensive.

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I bought the Harbor Freight rotory buffer/sander with the digital screen for $50. It was plenty of tool to do my 97 Echelon in about 1/2 hour. Don't use the cheapo pads that come with it. Get 3M pads that fit. It took way longer to set up and clean up than actually do the buffing. I wrapped my trailer in plastic bags, which I would recommend because the buffer will splatter a little compound (even if you start it on the boat). I only ended up using Collonites 920 and it took off a ton of oxidation. Made my boat look 10 years younger. I followed it up with Collonites 925 and it made all the colors really shine. Removing oxidation from your Bu is a very rewarding task because the results are instant ... enjoy!

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Has anyone tried using Scotchbrite pads instead of sand paper?

Just wondering as i was outside cleaning my boat and ended up with the kitchen sponge upside down.

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Has anyone tried using Scotchbrite pads instead of sand paper?

Just wondering as i was outside cleaning my boat and ended up with the kitchen sponge upside down.

I have, I found you get more directional marks with them than with wet sand paper...

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi all,

I have almost the exact same boat as 95echelon, except mine is a closed bow. Have been wondering how to best try to bring the shine back as mine is faded and looks just like what this one did. I had never heard of wet sanding before and I guess the thought of taking sandpaper to my boat makes me cringe! Does this not scratch the fiberglass all to hell? I really like the results I see from the pics but just wanted to get some reassurance before I start. I'll try to post before and after pics of mine when I get time to start the job. Thanks,

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Hi all,

I have almost the exact same boat as 95echelon, except mine is a closed bow. Have been wondering how to best try to bring the shine back as mine is faded and looks just like what this one did. I had never heard of wet sanding before and I guess the thought of taking sandpaper to my boat makes me cringe! Does this not scratch the fiberglass all to hell? I really like the results I see from the pics but just wanted to get some reassurance before I start. I'll try to post before and after pics of mine when I get time to start the job. Thanks,

You have to remove the oxidized Gel Coat. That process leaves wicked scratches. You have to gradually take those scratches out with finer paper / compounds. You then repeat that process until the desired finish is achieved.

It can take a LOT of man hours to get where you want.

Edited by Levi900RR
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  • 3 weeks later...

Just got done polishing my boat this weekend (the top half anyway, will do the bottom during the long SD winter). Looks awesome! Thanks for the tips here. That Maguiars 105 is amazing. I didn't wetsand near as much as Echelon but still looks great. I wanted mine to stay the same maroon color, his seemed to turn more red. I'll try to get some pics uploaded.

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