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Malibudoc

How to change a prop

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Malibudoc

My current OJ prop has a couple of dings and is showing some vibration with use. I want to change to my Stainless for a bit but have never done it. I do have a prop puller, but there are no instructions. Anyone better at myself with the search function that can find a good "HOW TO" on prop changing. I don't come up with a simple article.

Also, any recommendation on who to send my dinged up brass prop to in order to repair it inexpensively (but professionally?)

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UWSkier

Find a log to wedge between one of the blades of the prop and the hull.

Pull the cotter pin and loosen the prop nut but don't take it all the way off.

Put the puller on and tighten. It might take a bit for it to pop.

Once it pops, remove the puller, remove the nut, and take the prop off taking care not to drop the key (especially if you're replacing on the water... been there...)

Insert the key back into the keyway while sliding the new prop on.

Verify the key is not binding. The hub should be mated snugly to the shaft taper.

Reinstall the nut and put in a new cotter pin.

For prop repair in WI, see: http://www.themalibucrew.com/forums/index....=0&p=255128

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JBuck

This needs to be done at the boat ramp....

Loosen the prop nut but do not take it all the way off, back the boat into the water just like normal, DO NOT undo the bow strap, crank the boat and put it in reverse and gun it for a few seconds. Turn the boat off, pull it out of the water, remove nut and the prop and key should fall right off. Install other prop, tighten nut, etc...

I have always done it this way and have never had to buy a puller.... Rockon.gif

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Malibudoc
Find a log to wedge between one of the blades of the prop and the hull.

Pull the cotter pin and loosen the prop nut but don't take it all the way off.

Put the puller on and tighten. It might take a bit for it to pop.

Once it pops, remove the puller, remove the nut, and take the prop off taking care not to drop the key (especially if you're replacing on the water... been there...)

Insert the key back into the keyway while sliding the new prop on.

Verify the key is not binding. The hub should be mated snugly to the shaft taper.

Reinstall the nut and put in a new cotter pin.

For prop repair in WI, see: http://www.themalibucrew.com/forums/index....=0&p=255128

OOps I moved to NE, South Dakota on Lake Kampeska

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srab

Good information so far. The only thing I'll add is that it may take quite a few blows

with a metal hammer on the prop puller before the prop finally lets go. I've changed

my prop several times now, and even with grease liberally applied on the shaft when

replacing the prop, the next time it's not exactly as if it wants to pop loose.

Some use a BerzOmatic propane torch to achieve the same effect as boiling water.

I've never had to resort to that, and I'd be inclined to wrap the shaft with a cool

damp rag before trying.

I called ACME and sent my damaged prop to them. Reasonable price (about $30

less than what I could have had done locally), and they did a nice job.

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areamike
This needs to be done at the boat ramp....

Yeah...and block traffic the whole time so no one else can launch their boats! Whistling.gif

Adding to toher's advice... After you tighten the Prop puller, without over doing it, tap the top of the puller in the downward direction of the shaft with a hammer. Only tap a few times, then try to tighten the puller a little more, then tap again..after a couple times, it should pop right off. If you have to do this in the water, tie a little rope or string on the puller and loop it around the prop so it does not fall into the water after it pops. Leaving the prop nut on but loose will keep the prop from falling off too.

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EZSnow

1) if it's an older (pre-CNC) OJ, it'll make a great a) spare prop, or B) paperweight buy a newer OJ or ACME and you'll be amazed at the difference!

2) stainless props on inboards are generally thought to be bad juju. there was one brand (CWP?- CMP?) that has a habit of grenading for no particular reason, and all of them are hard enough that they are more likely to damage another part in the driveline if an obstruction is hit.

As for pulling, whatever pulling method you use, make sure to leave the nut on the shaft once you loosen it so you don't drop the prop.

A friend and I have designed and prototyped a puller that is a touch more complex than a c-clamp puller, but WAY more sturdy and so far has pulled the props we've tried without any hammering. We just need to make a decision on what material to use before we make the 2nd generation part. I'll be sure to let the crew know if we go to market with it.

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JBuck

You know I didn't mean directly on the ramp so everyone else would be blocked... :Doh:

Loosen it out of the way, back it down, gun it! Pull it back out of the way, change, enjoy the rest of the day on the lake!! Thumbup.gif

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WakeGirl
Orrrrr,

He could do this...

Where'd you get that Pete?

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Pistol Pete

I wrote it during lunch one day.

Wanna put it in the how to section?

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WakeGirl

I was thinking about it. Do you have any pictures to illustrate your points? If not, I can take care of that. We've got a puller & it's not a hard job at all.

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Pistol Pete

The one bad thing is I didn't take any pics. because I haven't needed to replace my prop in awhile. And, I'm too lazy to do it just for the pics.

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Malibudoc

I did change my prop and thank GOD I had the nut still on when the prop let loose! It may have taken off my hand! CRIPES that was scary!

I used a tiny bit of axle grease on the tapering shaft, is that OK? I don't really know what plumbers grease is...

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Pistol Pete

Any grease is good, the more the better. Plumber's grease is just a waterproof type of grease they use on faucets and such.

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