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Floor problem


05 response

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I have a 2005 Response closed bow and love the boat! We went on vaction last week and noticed that the piece of floor that you remove to get to the stuffing box etc sounds like you are walking on tinfoil. My buddy has an 1999 Response LX and his is totally shot. Does anyone know if they use honeycomb to build this, it is pretty light so that might be the case. Would this be covered under "life time hull warranty"? if both of us are original owners? Actually my boat is still under the 3 year full warranty, so I would assume that it should not be a problem.

Thanks for any thoughts

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A friend of mine with a 2001 Response LX has the same panel that feels a little soft. My understanding is that there isn't any wood in these boats so it shouldn't be rot.

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given the weight of that panel i would bet my dinner tonight that is a aluminum honeycomb panel.

my ski locker cover aluminum, too.

mcmaster-carr stocks small sizes of it (2x4 iirc) but bring your wallet.

Edited by tvano
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mine does the same thing in my VLX when I walk over the section above the gas tank. It's like a Plinking sound. I did ask the dealer about that one time and I think they mentioned that it was the honeycomb aluminum. Nothing you can do about it and it won't cause damage.

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My 04 VLX has a similar issue -- 3" from the bow edge side -- softness underfoot. Yes it is a Al pannel -- my dealer was nice enough to replace under warranty -- one vote for SP in MI! I was told they do "fail"... good luck!

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  • 8 years later...

If this is not covered under warranty, can you at least purchase replacements? Mine is an 04 LXi and the removable section between the motor box and the rear of the boat is about to fall thru. May have to stick a piece of plywood in there to get thru the summer ... won't be good advertising, that's for sure. The rest of the floor appears to be sagging as well but not as bad as the removable hatch.

 

/Steve

 

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ahopkins22LSV

Holy moly old thread. :shocked:

But the above info is correct. However instead of plywood I'd call your dealer and have them order a new section from the factory. Or fab your own up and wrap it in carpet. Just remember the carpet wrapped around whatever you use for the base will add width. 

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28 minutes ago, ahopkinsTXi said:

Holy moly old thread. :shocked:

But the above info is correct. However instead of plywood I'd call your dealer and have them order a new section from the factory. Or fab your own up and wrap it in carpet. Just remember the carpet wrapped around whatever you use for the base will add width. 

Yeah I don't think I would want plywood right over the mufflers.  I assume the reason for the honeycomb aluminum is that it gets to hot there for a piece of starboard

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22 minutes ago, oldjeep said:

Yeah I don't think I would want plywood right over the mufflers.  I assume the reason for the honeycomb aluminum is that it gets to hot there for a piece of starboard

There's no danger in plywood.  Your risers and exhaust pipes should never be above ~150F.  Wood has an autoignition point of ~570F.  Plywood is how floors were built for 50+ years before the composite materials came along.

IF you rebuild this section out of wood, though -- you'll want to be sure to apply a Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer (CPES) to waterproof it.   With proper application you can basically eliminate any chance of rot or degradation.  I'd talk to the dealer on getting an OEM panel (and knowing how cheap I am) probably cringe and go with the plywood panel.  I suspect that PVC, starboard, etc won't be rigid enough for that particular piece (and is why they used an aluminum honeycomb) to begin with.

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2 hours ago, Fffrank said:

There's no danger in plywood.  Your risers and exhaust pipes should never be above ~150F.  Wood has an autoignition point of ~570F.  Plywood is how floors were built for 50+ years before the composite materials came along.

IF you rebuild this section out of wood, though -- you'll want to be sure to apply a Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer (CPES) to waterproof it.   With proper application you can basically eliminate any chance of rot or degradation.  I'd talk to the dealer on getting an OEM panel (and knowing how cheap I am) probably cringe and go with the plywood panel.  I suspect that PVC, starboard, etc won't be rigid enough for that particular piece (and is why they used an aluminum honeycomb) to begin with.

It isn't danger, it is the steaming rot that you would get using wood above a couple hot mufflers that get water splashed on them.

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The plywood would be temporary. My concern is the next time a 200lb guy steps back into the boat, he might go right thru it.

I believe Malibu was having quite a few quality problems around the time of my boat. I had a 93 Echelon that was far superior in quality.

If I remember correctly, the aluminum honeycomb was to reduce weight. The whole floor is made of the same stuff.

 

Thanks for the replies!

Edited by ibelieve
  • Like 1
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  • 1 month later...

My 2004 response is experiencing the same problem with the front hatch and back panel sagging.  Has anybody successfully replaced/repaired this issue without purchasing a factory replacement?  

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I don't believe the front hatch(s) are the aluminum honeycomb but rather a solid piece of something. I know there have been issues with it as well, and particular the hinges. You can search for discussions on them and should be able to find something.

As for the rear, I made a steel support for under mine and it is doing well, for now.

 

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I made a nice replacement using corecell wrapped in carbon fiber.  Super light and stiffer than original.  For additional strength, you can add more vertical section via a cross beam.

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hijack on: @woodski, how would you feel the corecell + carbon fiber would work out as a ski locker cover on response.

note that the response ski locker is upholstered above the fuel tank across the stern (not a sub-floor compartment).

hijack off.

Edited by tvano
forgot to turn off hijack. how inconsiderate!
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@tvano:  Hijack answer - would work great and I am going on the assumption it is the panel under the sunpad in the storage locker (you certainly want to avoid any wood there).  I would also consider it a good option for the sunpad panels also, the carbon fiber is much stiffer than other materials commonly used (and priced accordingly).  I actually made three items that way - platform, rudder cover panel, ski locker panel (narrow one between driver & observer seats).  As an example, my platform is super stiff although I did add a vertical 'beam' between the platform brackets since there is plenty of space there and I don't need the little mid transom brace (that was knocked off anyway).  If my assumption is correct, I would consider changing from carpet to hydroturf / seadek if that gets wet a lot (in place of carpet).

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4 hours ago, Woodski said:

@tvano:  Hijack answer - would work great and I am going on the assumption it is the panel under the sunpad in the storage locker (you certainly want to avoid any wood there).  I would also consider it a good option for the sunpad panels also, the carbon fiber is much stiffer than other materials commonly used (and priced accordingly).  I actually made three items that way - platform, rudder cover panel, ski locker panel (narrow one between driver & observer seats).  As an example, my platform is super stiff although I did add a vertical 'beam' between the platform brackets since there is plenty of space there and I don't need the little mid transom brace (that was knocked off anyway).  If my assumption is correct, I would consider changing from carpet to hydroturf / seadek if that gets wet a lot (in place of carpet).

@Woodskii've archived your comment so i can find it when that locker cover finally fails.

my dealer says it's part of the lifetime hull warranty but i don't expect to see any satisfaction from the big kids at malibu. 

i'd like to try a carbon fiber project.  maybe i'll pm you when that time comes and lean on your expertise.  thanks for the reply.

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@tvano:  Good luck getting a replacement, hopefully that works out.  Carbon projects are most fun when they are finished, they are very rewarding and can have great results.  I shot you a pm, feel free to shoot me a note when you give it a try.  As I note in the pm, I forgot to mention my most recent one, I made an engine cover the same way, significant weight savings.

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  • 3 years later...

So I am 4 years late to the discussion. I have 2012 txi with 450 hours and when not in a covered hoist with a boat cover on it, it is in a garage. The boat is close to show room. My honeycomb flor is sagging big time just behind the motor box. My dealer were I bought it 1 year old with 50hrs on it from, thought they were making at the part but I guess they aren’t. They were too busy launching and preparing boats to make me one. What is everyone doing?

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

My 2012 same hours and is doing the same thing-soft to step on. I did a fix that so far seems to work well. I took a 1/2 x 6 inch deck board cut about 10 inches long. Removed 4 of the prop shaft box screws and got longer ones to screw the deck board too. Then i mounted a piece of 4x4 to the deck board and if i remember that supported the carpeted cover well. Now just the very edges are a bit soft. Painted it all black looks original ! Boat hasn't caught on fire yet- LOL.  Next season i will probably put a longer board in there to go from edge to edge. 

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  • 7 months later...

My Y2000 Malibu Response LX also has a sagging carpeted panel located just aft of the Engine Box (Over the Stuffing Box and Mufflers).  When I removed the carpeting from the panel, I found that the HoneyComb was severely bent and cracked. I had no luck finding the replacement aluminum Honeycomb.

My repair was a follows:

1. Used the original Honeycomb panel as a template and cut a piece of marine-grade (treated) 3/4" Plywood to the same dimensions. Note, the original panel had a hole for the Hatch Recessed Grip which is removed via the two Stainless Steel Screws.

2. Painted the plywood with several coats of exterior-grade paint.

3. Cleaned the carpet cover (still in good condition) and attached it to the plywood. Use Carpet Adhesive and attach the overlapping edges with Stainless Steel or Monel Staples. Re-attach the original Plastic Hatch Grip with the two Screws.

4. The replacement panel fit snugly and flush into the deck. The panel did not sag under load, however there is clearance to screw two or three 1/8" thick Aluminum bars on the panel bottom for reinforcement.

The repair has lasted one season with no need to add reinforcement.

CAUTION: make sure that there is a gap between the top of the fiberglass mufflers and the Panel. A collapsed or rubbing Panel will wear a hole into the muffler!

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