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Chia

oil change

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Chia

can't find any pennzoil, but costco has Castrol GTX Diesel 15-40 that meets all of the requirements in the Indar manual, API Service, SL/SJ/CL-4, CH-4 and CG-4.

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vlx wakesetter

Any good diesel oil will work fine and Castrol has good products! Since you will have a hard time finding Pennzoil I just grab Shell Rotella at NAPA. You will also need the NAPA gold 1069 oil filter too.

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RIPP52VLX
can't find any pennzoil, but costco has Castrol GTX Diesel 15-40 that meets all of the requirements in the Indar manual, API Service, SL/SJ/CL-4, CH-4 and CG-4.

That is what I am running too. Did a lot of searching around cowtown before stopping at Walmart.

One other option I have found around here is Royal Purple at Mopac but you will pay dearly.

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WaveMake'nLSV

Yup...most grades of Diesel dino-oil will be fine. Mobit Delvac, Shell Rotella-T, Castrol, etc...It is difficult (or at least for me, it is) to find 15w40 full synthetic marine/diesel oil. So...I put Amsoil in it one time (OUCH $$$$) and now am back to the good old Shell Rotella-T 15w40 readily available pretty much everywhere. I figure I change it between 25-50 hr depending on the season and usage, so no real benefit to syns, IMHO. But that opens up a whole OTHER discussion. ROFL.gif

Edited by WaveMake'nLSV

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Chia
Yup...most grades of Diesel dino-oil will be fine. Mobit Delvac, Shell Rotella-T, Castrol, etc...It is difficult (or at least for me, it is) to find 15w40 full synthetic marine/diesel oil. So...I put Amsoil in it one time (OUCH $$$$) and now am back to the good old Shell Rotella-T 15w40 readily available pretty much everywhere. I figure I change it between 25-50 hr depending on the season and usage, so no real benefit to syns, IMHO. But that opens up a whole OTHER discussion. ROFL.gif

the other problem with synthetic is the manual says not to use it in the first 100 hours and then change it every 50 hours (25 in severe conditions) thereafter anyway.

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ADHD
Yup...most grades of Diesel dino-oil will be fine. Mobit Delvac, Shell Rotella-T, Castrol, etc...It is difficult (or at least for me, it is) to find 15w40 full synthetic marine/diesel oil. So...I put Amsoil in it one time (OUCH $$$$) and now am back to the good old Shell Rotella-T 15w40 readily available pretty much everywhere. I figure I change it between 25-50 hr depending on the season and usage, so no real benefit to syns, IMHO. But that opens up a whole OTHER discussion. ROFL.gif

the other problem with synthetic is the manual says not to use it in the first 100 hours and then change it every 50 hours (25 in severe conditions) thereafter anyway.

ya i had a hard time finding the pennzoil marine as well!! Thanks to this thread I found some Shell Rotella T 15-40 at my walmart for 9$ a gallon..

I checked my oil this morning getting ready for the lake tomorrow and noticed it was pretty low,, the motor is coming up on 190 hours so another 10 hours and ill need a complete oil change...

Does anyone here change there own oil and if so what oil catch/pump do u use?? I seen a couple differnt ones on overtons.com just wondering what one I should buy??

Ive always change my own oil on my cars/trucks/diesels but i know its obviously a bit differnt changing it on a boat so any help would be appreciated??

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WaveMake'nLSV

Just for a straight oil and filter change, I always use the black hose on the port side of the engine. It should be hanging on a stainless ring and have a threaded brass fitting on the end. I just run it as LOW as possible in the bilge and out the mid-drain into a bucket. Loosen the oil filter and then place a large plastic ziplock over the filter and THEN remove it.

This method spills narry a drop of oil. Thumbup.gif

Good Luck,

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EZSnow

...pennzoil... ... Vomit.gifVomit.gif

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ADHD
Just for a straight oil and filter change, I always use the black hose on the port side of the engine. It should be hanging on a stainless ring and have a threaded brass fitting on the end. I just run it as LOW as possible in the bilge and out the mid-drain into a bucket. Loosen the oil filter and then place a large plastic ziplock over the filter and THEN remove it.

This method spills narry a drop of oil. Thumbup.gif

Good Luck,

THanks man!!

ya Ive got that hose its hanging from a stainless ring just like u mentioned, The manual says to run it as low as possible and out the drain hole but I didnt think It would get it all out hence thats why they make these oil pumps for boats??? Sounds like our boats are actually built normal and obviously can be done this way...

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WaveMake'nLSV

Have done it both ways and there was NO difference on the amount of oil drained. Just make sure it runs LOW in the bilge and best to do it when the motor is warm so it flows thru the hose better, I think.

Good Luck!

THanks man!!

ya Ive got that hose its hanging from a stainless ring just like u mentioned, The manual says to run it as low as possible and out the drain hole but I didnt think It would get it all out hence thats why they make these oil pumps for boats??? Sounds like our boats are actually built normal and obviously can be done this way...

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ADHD

thats my other question ive had lately is about how to start the boat on the trailer out of the water to get the oil warm??

As a kid in my dads old jet boats with a small block 350 we would run a hose to it I cant remember for the life of me where it went but oh well..

Im not about to drystart my boat either I got under the boat the other day and noticed a couple holes that looks like wehre the raw water pumps and it had a hose fitting on it but just not sure what is intake or outake?? Ive looked in the manual everywhere and cant find a thing.. Im 45 min from the lake as well Im guessing just leave the motor cover open in the 100deg weather should do???

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WaveMake'nLSV

Fake-a-Lake is the most common way. Perko also makes an inline one way flush valve that is pretty sweet. I have always just taken a 1 1/8" ID hose and spliced it into the raw water hose on the ENGINE side of the Vdrive. Take a 5 gallon bucket of water and fill it up with a hose, keep the hose running and start the engine. Even with a 5 gallon head start, my boat drains the bucket in < 1 min. I have to do this procedure 3-4 times, letting the hose catch back up and restarting before the engine is warm.

Lots of options out there. If I do a permanent solution, I would consider this:

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/store...dkey=SiteSearch

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ilovetrains

I guess the largest size is the correct one for our application?

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ADHD
I guess the largest size is the correct one for our application?

the fake a lake seems to be a really easy way to do it but I guess im retarded and dont understand where it hooks up to??

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