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Lovetoski

Fix For Throtle Issue

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Lovetoski

Malibu did a great job of coming out and replacing my throttle ASAP. Very impressive. And the people who don't own Bu's are pretty impressed sitting back watching too. It is actions like this that will give them future sales.

My question to everyone is this. The fix took away the neutral button at the bottom of the throttle. You can no longer "rev" the engine in neutral. The response is that it isn't needed on a non carbureted engine. What do others think about this?

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jshap

I don't like it. I like using it when the engine starts a little rough early in the season or after a couple weeks of downtime. I know the mechanics use it quite a bit too, so I'm not sure that it's a great fix for the long run, but more of a band aid until they can figure out a more permanent solution?

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bsoss
I don't like it. I like using it when the engine starts a little rough early in the season or after a couple weeks of downtime. I know the mechanics use it quite a bit too, so I'm not sure that it's a great fix for the long run, but more of a band aid until they can figure out a more permanent solution?

I didn't think you need it anymore with EFI engines. It's not like they run rough until they get warmed up like the carbed ones did. Also, since it's throttle by wire, can you even rev it manually somehow? I'm assuming there is some way to do it, especially for the techs. Off to hit the early morning glass!

Edited by bsoss

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tvano

after prolonged idle (i.e. 3 boat queue) i need to rev a little to get any substantial heat out of the heater.

yes, i've got the heater "Y" installed correctly.

i'd be bummed if i couldn't up the r's a bit.

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kent342

I think its wrong, how are you going to run your boat on the trailer in the spring ( charge batteries ) or to do maintenance like changing the oil. I am not sure but isn't by law thier a requirement to have a neutral position?

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MalibuTime
I don't like it. I like using it when the engine starts a little rough early in the season or after a couple weeks of downtime. I know the mechanics use it quite a bit too, so I'm not sure that it's a great fix for the long run, but more of a band aid until they can figure out a more permanent solution?

I didn't think you need it anymore with EFI engines. It's not like they run rough until they get warmed up like the carbed ones did. Also, since it's throttle by wire, can you even rev it manually somehow? I'm assuming there is some way to do it, especially for the techs. Off to hit the early morning glass!

Notworthy.gif

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1FootDan

The only time I used it was when fogging my engine in the fall. If I left it at idle (600-800rpm), it would die out pretty quickly when spraying fogging oil in the air intake. Raising the rpm to 1200, I could then spray fogging oil (using 2 cans at the same time) until white smoke came out the exhausts, then I would shut the engine off.

Other than that, I beleive it is useless for EFI engines, but if the button is there, I would expect it to work.

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VinRLX

The button is no longer there. The 'fix' for the problem, at least so far, eliminates another functionality of the throttle mechanism. I hope this is not permanent, but a result of getting us all back on the water so quickly. If ZF Hurth/Malibu leave this out completely, it is ridiculous. This reminds me of Malibu taking RPM mode out of the speed control to put in presets--nobody was using it, right?

No, it is not necessary in order to start an EFI engine, but I use it for:

Accelerated engine warm up.

Increased water circulation for heater.

Maintenance throughout the year.

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Chia
The only time I used it was when fogging my engine in the fall. If I left it at idle (600-800rpm), it would die out pretty quickly when spraying fogging oil in the air intake. Raising the rpm to 1200, I could then spray fogging oil (using 2 cans at the same time) until white smoke came out the exhausts, then I would shut the engine off.

Other than that, I beleive it is useless for EFI engines, but if the button is there, I would expect it to work.

just a note for those with catalytic converters. Indmar does not recommend applying fogging oil when the engine is running. The fogging oil could damage the catalytic converter. The cylinders can be protected by removing the spark plugs and applying the fogging oil directly into the cylinders (page 71 of manual).

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FIC

As a tech on motors since 1957 I really like what computor technology has brought to us as far as performance and durability , what I dont see or under stand other than a possible cost savings is how does electric shift make things any quicker or better, I have rarely changed out shift cables , the new system doesnt react any faster and I would tend to believe the electric solenoids will fail more often than old reliable cable. As pertaining to the neutral button I have had to use it when I have had a idle control motor failure to try and stablize the engine to get back to the dock.

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VinRLX
I have rarely changed out shift cables , the new system doesnt react any faster and I would tend to believe the electric solenoids will fail more often than old reliable cable.

Though not the shift that you are talking about, the throttle by wire seems to react slower. I attribute the lack of 'punch' of my current boat to the fact that the throttle servo can not react as quickly as a mechanical cable.

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Lovetoski
The button is no longer there. The 'fix' for the problem, at least so far, eliminates another functionality of the throttle mechanism. I hope this is not permanent, but a result of getting us all back on the water so quickly. If ZF Hurth/Malibu leave this out completely, it is ridiculous. This reminds me of Malibu taking RPM mode out of the speed control to put in presets--nobody was using it, right?

No, it is not necessary in order to start an EFI engine, but I use it for:

Accelerated engine warm up.

Increased water circulation for heater.

Maintenance throughout the year.

The button is still there, it just can't be pressed in anymore

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FIC

I realy havent seen a lack of response from my own personal boat as pertaining to drive by wire, but it is a 6.0l and has performed quite well for 630hrs.

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SmoothWaterMan

FIC, you have throttle by wire on your 2004?

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FIC

No Im refering to my 2006 340hp.

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FIC

I had a brain fart and got my boats mixed up , I run a 6.0l 400hp in one boat and a 340hp in the other. The first year for drive by wire on my boat was 2006, we are involved with 2 ski teams and run a varity of boats from an 8.1l pro star 190 to hydradines with twin 250 mercs. Both of my sons ski at cypress gardens.

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VinRLX
Drive By Wire is different form Fly By Wire.

I don't see where Fly by Wire is mentioned in this thread. Not sure what you're saying?

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Matt_Alger

I am very disappointed that they took away this functionality. On my '96 Response on cold mornings we had to use the neutral button to get the engine to run. This was just Fuel Injected and not throttle by wire but will my '08 VTX need a little neutral reving in 10 years on cold mornings to get it to run too? Also, I like to be able to rev it to warm it up a little quicker without destroying the glass in the mornings, get the heater going so that it actually gives some heat, and for maintenance. Nice to be able to rev the engine. By the way my dealer tech told me that I could still rev it while on the trailer, just stay away from the prop. Not sure I want the prop spinning in the driveway.

Good point on the fogging oil with catalysts. The quickest way to kill a catalyst is to consume oil. Oil additives "poison" catalysts. My guess is fogging oil would do the same.

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VinRLX
By the way my dealer tech told me that I could still rev it while on the trailer, just stay away from the prop. Not sure I want the prop spinning in the driveway.

Do NOT do this unless you have water running over the cutlass bearing, in your shaft strut. However, if you have the dripless shaft seal, water may run down your shaft anyway.

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Matt_Alger
By the way my dealer tech told me that I could still rev it while on the trailer, just stay away from the prop. Not sure I want the prop spinning in the driveway.

Do NOT do this unless you have water running over the cutlass bearing, in your shaft strut. However, if you have the dripless shaft seal, water may run down your shaft anyway.

I have the dripless and water does run down the shaft so I am not sure if there would be an issue running it in gear on the driveway. However, like everything with my boat unless I was 100% sure it wasn't a problem I wouldn't do it.

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