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NvBoarder

Closed cooling system

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NvBoarder

So with all the talk of Mussels in Cali it is only a matter of time before the inspections are at every lake. Since their is always water in the engine block unless you winterize it after every trip (Drain the block). I was thinking that maybe I would convert the boat over to the closed cooling system. Is this even possible to convert over to or can it only be done from the get go, when you order the boat from the factory? I would not do this until things get out of control with the waterways, but I honestly think it's a matter of time and I would hate to get turned around after a 3 hour drive because I had water in my motor cooling system. I think that out of all the lakes that I go to Lake Tahoe will probably be impacted first.

Thoughts, opinions, suggestions appreciated.

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pup

Closed cooling uses lake water through the heat exchanger & exhaust manifolds so you will still have water to deal with & drain. All thats left is draining the block. I bet closed cooling isn't cheap to add . Draining the coolant system isn't a big deal.

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MalibuNation

I'd check with your dealer and www.heatercraft.com ... think that's their website ... I'm in a hurry.

Edited by MalibuNation

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jgouveia3

yes, it can be added after, and as said above, raw water is still used in the system (is a half closed system). Yes, it is expensive.

I don't think Heatercraft makes closed cooling systems, BICBW. Orca is (or at least was) the brand factory installed, at least from the TN factory.

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WakeGirl

It seems like one of our members added a system that made it super easy to rinse salt water from his engine. I think it was Hawaiinstylin' that did it, but I can't remember all of the details. Maybe that's something to pursue....

FWIW, I had had the same thought about the closed cooling system. It probably is expensive, but if they really start holding your feet to the fire over this issue (like I think that the could) then it may be one solution at least in part. The reason being that I think it would be much easier to get all of the water out of the exchangers than it will to get it out of the engine (I could be wrong on that though). The big problem with all of this is that with (for example) an engine, there's no way to prove that it's completely dry. So unless you can run an additive through the system & have proof of that, this issue is going to become a big one in the coming year(s).

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68Slalom
So with all the talk of Mussels in Cali it is only a matter of time before the inspections are at every lake. Since their is always water in the engine block unless you winterize it after every trip (Drain the block). I was thinking that maybe I would convert the boat over to the closed cooling system. Is this even possible to convert over to or can it only be done from the get go, when you order the boat from the factory? I would not do this until things get out of control with the waterways, but I honestly think it's a matter of time and I would hate to get turned around after a 3 hour drive because I had water in my motor cooling system. I think that out of all the lakes that I go to Lake Tahoe will probably be impacted first.

Thoughts, opinions, suggestions appreciated.

You could modify the engine block drain ports with extensions to one main valve that would make it much easier to open and close, it could be mounted close to the middle plug. Just a thought, I never even drained my block for winter I usually start the engine every month and it sits in the garage so I didn't even think about this until you mentioned it.

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NvBoarder

Thanks everyone for the input, I am not going to do anything yet but if this becomes an issue I may have to readdress the situation.

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jgouveia3
It seems like one of our members added a system that made it super easy to rinse salt water from his engine. I think it was Hawaiinstylin' that did it, but I can't remember all of the details. Maybe that's something to pursue....

FWIW, I had had the same thought about the closed cooling system. It probably is expensive, but if they really start holding your feet to the fire over this issue (like I think that the could) then it may be one solution at least in part. The reason being that I think it would be much easier to get all of the water out of the exchangers than it will to get it out of the engine (I could be wrong on that though). The big problem with all of this is that with (for example) an engine, there's no way to prove that it's completely dry. So unless you can run an additive through the system & have proof of that, this issue is going to become a big one in the coming year(s).

I think the system you are thinking about was called a Gaurdian system. that system actually does clean the engine out, but I think requires a hose to do it.

one thing that you could do with the closed system (after draining the heat exchanger) to get the raw water out is run the engine for just a few seconds after it is out of the water. i do it all the time once my boat is on the lift, so that the salt water gets out of the risers/manifolds. i know many are going to cringe that the impellar is going to get fried, but I have replaced my impellar once in 8 seasons. and if you are really worried, get that run dry impellar. no worries with the engine overheating with such a short burst (like i said, only a few seconds), as you are running antifreeze through the engine.

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Faceplant409

When I asked a Ranger (Berryessa) about cooling systems he was a little vague but did state that hot water does kill the larvae. (how hot...he couldn't say..) So it stands to reason that anything that got into the motor or past the motor would be dead... Maybe.

I'd love to get a hand out or guidelines from Dept. of Fish & Game. It really is their baby, but it is up to each body of water to levy inspections.

Pat

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WakeGirl
When I asked a Ranger (Berryessa) about cooling systems he was a little vague but did state that hot water does kill the larvae. (how hot...he couldn't say..) So it stands to reason that anything that got into the motor or past the motor would be dead... Maybe.

I'd love to get a hand out or guidelines from Dept. of Fish & Game. It really is their baby, but it is up to each body of water to levy inspections.

Pat

But that's the water that made it all the way in, there's still some sitting at the start of the line near the raw water pickup that never gets warm. There are too many variables IMO to depend on that.

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