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DIY Ballast Project Install


vette-ski

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That's the way my drain pumps are connected and no problems here with priming, as a matter of fact the water pushes past the drain pumps on mine. It makes using quick connects on all bag connections easier. You can install and remove the bags easily too. Those quick connects are pretty nice.

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Rockon.gif

Yup...thats pretty much how I have my 750s plumbed in and have NEVER had a drain prime issue. Guess the water pressure is enough to push the prime.

That's the way my drain pumps are connected and no problems here with priming, as a matter of fact the water pushes past the drain pumps on mine. It makes using quick connects on all bag connections easier. You can install and remove the bags easily too. Those quick connects are pretty nice.
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Nice job on the very nice and clean install, and great pics and writeup.

I'm glad to see that you have some extra sacs to put in the bow as needed. I found with my '01 SSVLX that when I had the wedge deployed and all of the sacs filled (midship and rear lockers) that the hull would porpoise unless I added extra weight to the bow.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Great job vette-ski! My installation is very similar to yours ... Except I didn't use the stainless-steel thru-hulls. Very nice! I've run into a few problems, though. First, the I've had issues with the rear sacs auto-emptying through the fill port. I've tried just about everything to solve it. I decided to use check valves, but I noticed that the electric solenoid valves (sprinkler-type) are a bit cheaper, and probably more effective. I was originally concerned that at 24V they might not work, but I was taking a look at my Dad's Supra, and it came from the factory with them installed, so they must work fine. I'm going to give them a try this weekend.

In the center ballast I've had the opposite problem. It auto-fills. I'm hoping that the solenoid valve might solve that problem too. Also, I've had issues with my center ballast sack pushing against the pump, and that's a bit concerning. Have you had the same issue? I bought a piece of cutting board-type plastic to put in as a wall, but I haven't installed it yet.

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Unfortunately I haven't had much water time yet this season, but I have tried it out a couple times. Definite improvement in wake. Right now I prefer full ballast and no wedge. I'm either going to need more weight in the bow or not fill the rear sacs full to use the wedge. Major bow rise with the wedge. I haven't noticed any auto draining of the rears, but that doesn't mean it's not I guess. Still had lots of water after several hours of use so if it is coming out it's not enough to bother me. If I get to a point where it looks like I'm losing water I can just hit the switch and top them off again between sets. Fill time from empty is pretty quick. I suspect I would have autofilling issues in the ski locker. The whole thing is below waterline. But since you are sitting right next to it, it's pretty easy to just manually shut the valve. I pretty much just leave that valve closed unless we are boarding. I tried to locate the fill pump back up in the corner away from everything and it seems to be clear from the sac pushing on it. I don't have the fill pump exactly where it is in the pictures. I swung the fitting so the pump is more to the rear in the final install for better hose routing. My sac doesn't go all the way to the back wall of the ski locker, so there's room for the pump.

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  • 3 years later...

Vette-ski,

Nice write up. any field reports on the performance or modifications of this install after 3 years? I'm planning on installing an auto ballast system in my 2000 SSLXi DD. My major question is your overall justification for installing independent pumps for each bag instead of tapping off the engine raw water inlet for at least one of the pumps? My scenario is a little bit different in that I'm planning on only doing a center locker bag and a rear trunk bag (with proper trunk reinforcement), so I only need two fill pumps. Overall it probably comes down to water volume and quicker fill time, right? It also looks more professional than tapping into the raw water inlet and bildge drain (w/ check valves).

My only hesitation is drilling the holes. I think I can come through that hesitation though. Let me know if quicker fill time was your justification or if there was another reason.

Thanks!

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Vette-ski,

Nice write up. any field reports on the performance or modifications of this install after 3 years? I'm planning on installing an auto ballast system in my 2000 SSLXi DD. My major question is your overall justification for installing independent pumps for each bag instead of tapping off the engine raw water inlet for at least one of the pumps? My scenario is a little bit different in that I'm planning on only doing a center locker bag and a rear trunk bag (with proper trunk reinforcement), so I only need two fill pumps. Overall it probably comes down to water volume and quicker fill time, right? It also looks more professional than tapping into the raw water inlet and bildge drain (w/ check valves).

My only hesitation is drilling the holes. I think I can come through that hesitation though. Let me know if quicker fill time was your justification or if there was another reason.

Thanks!

If I'm understanding right I think you might be asking two different questions. I didn't tee pumps into the raw intake because as you mentioned it's a cleaner install doing thru-hulls. And I haven't shopped in a while but I think it will take a bunch of fittings to tee and reduce from the 1-1/4" raw water hose down to 3/4". And I really don't know how well the pumps would do filling the bags if it is competing for water with the raw water pump (it might take longer to fill??). Anyway, my primary reason for doing independant pumps was for complete control over which sacks get water. Depending on passengers we have in the boat, you can easily alter front/rear weight distribution. Same goes for left/right. I'm goofy, most of the others I board with aren't. So between sets we are always tweaking a little more water on the goofy side or regular side, depending whose up. More drastic is surfing when you want one side completely empty and the other side full. But if you don't plan to surf, that may not be important to you. And after several years of use we do more left/right balancing than we do front/rear.

Anyway, the system has worked great, haven't had to change or repair a thing. Everytime we go out....it just works. Fill times aren't all that bad at all, but these are 400 lb sacs and not the monsters that some people are using.

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If I'm understanding right I think you might be asking two different questions. I didn't tee pumps into the raw intake because as you mentioned it's a cleaner install doing thru-hulls. And I haven't shopped in a while but I think it will take a bunch of fittings to tee and reduce from the 1-1/4" raw water hose down to 3/4". And I really don't know how well the pumps would do filling the bags if it is competing for water with the raw water pump (it might take longer to fill??). Anyway, my primary reason for doing independant pumps was for complete control over which sacks get water. Depending on passengers we have in the boat, you can easily alter front/rear weight distribution. Same goes for left/right. I'm goofy, most of the others I board with aren't. So between sets we are always tweaking a little more water on the goofy side or regular side, depending whose up. More drastic is surfing when you want one side completely empty and the other side full. But if you don't plan to surf, that may not be important to you. And after several years of use we do more left/right balancing than we do front/rear.

Anyway, the system has worked great, haven't had to change or repair a thing. Everytime we go out....it just works. Fill times aren't all that bad at all, but these are 400 lb sacs and not the monsters that some people are using.

I didn't think about the reduction in diameter...thats a good point also. Complete control is also a good point. I'm in a bit different situation as mentioned above because i've got the DD. I'll have to think of ways to partition the rear truck somehow to have 3 options: full rear trunk ballast, port, or starboard (I'm goofy also). I'd prefer not to add ballast to the passenger area of the boat around the engine if I can prevent it for surfing weight. Maybe install two smaller bags in the trunk?

Anyways, thanks for answering my question. nice job again. I'm going to get a BOM and cost out the difference between doing the Jabsco and the Rule. Thanks!

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Awesome write up. That wake looks awesome. I would agree with you about the bow rise with the wedge down. I prefer that wake with a little more weight up front and the rear sacs about 3/4 full. Again great system. Should be a great summer.

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