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Impeller install Issue


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All:

I pulled the impeller pump out of the boat, which made it much easier to install the new impeller. Not to knock Malibu/Mercruiser, but the Mastercraft took 5 minutes to change the impeller - runs of the front of the crankshaft pulley. This is much more of a PITA to change, but still not a big deal.

Everything came out and went back in perfectly. I also pulled the short output side hose off the engine to check the screen. It was almost full of chewed up rubber pieces. I used a shopvac to suck all of it out of there. I am sure that was the source of my high water temps. My first question is:

- Can you all tell me if that is the only screen on the engine? I assume it is but wanted to know for sure. It looks like the screen housing "T-s" off and there is a cooler line that runs to the tranny, as well as up to the engine, etc. The engine is a mercruiser magnum tournament ski direct drive.

Now, onto my more serious issue. My problem happened when I realized I forgot to slip over the hose clamp on the raw water intake hose, and so I needed to pull the pump assembly back off. The hose fits tight so I pulled hard to get it to come off. POP! Off it came, alright, but I banged the plastic housing on the crank pulley. It broke a v-shapped chunk of plastic out of the plastic "bib" that that raw water hose slides over. So much for boating this afternoon. Note that this happened just as my wife and kids were asking if we could go out this afternoon, to which I replied "Sure, I am almost done!!". D*mn karma! :-)

Anyway, it was a clean break, and I have the missing plastic piece. When I put the piece back on there and push, it fits where you can't see a crack. So my debate is to order the new housing, or JB weld the heck out of it! :-) I am not one for a half-arse repair, so I'll order the housing this week to hopefully get it before Memorial Day. In case this is a hard to get part, I just JB welded the snot out of it as a tempoary fix! :-) I am taking poll to see who thinks it will work perfectly, and who thinks it will leak like a SOB!

Have a great weekend everyone!

-- Mike

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JB weld is pretty tough stuff. Was the crack on the suction side or the pressure side? Sounds like you are talking about the suction side. If there is no way for that piece to get into the pump, I think you will be alright. Are you sure you now have a good seal between the bib and raw water hose with the JB on there. A bad seal could prevent a good raw water purge to the pump.

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JB weld is pretty tough stuff. Was the crack on the suction side or the pressure side? Sounds like you are talking about the suction side. If there is no way for that piece to get into the pump, I think you will be alright. Are you sure you now have a good seal between the bib and raw water hose with the JB on there. A bad seal could prevent a good raw water purge to the pump.

The crack was on the inlet (suction) side, not the pressure side. It is setting up really well so I am hopeful it will not leak.

Not being able to boat this afternoon did allow me to get some other projects done. I used goo-gone and removed all the adhesive from the trailer non skid fender pads and replaced it with all new "Malibu Boats" non skid from SMP trailers. Looks like a million bucks! I only had the fingertip energy to get one side done - will do the other side this weekend.

Thanks,

-- Mike

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You must have a Mercruiser if the pump is plastic. A metal one should be available if you decide to replace it.

That is good to know, thanks for the tip. I am concerned that the local mercruiser dealer won't stock a housing so I am going to order a new one, so we are not out of commission on memorial day weekend.

Thanks,

-- Mike

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You could get one here: http://www.skidim.com/

I don't believe Skidim stocks the housing - there were several parts I needed (idler pulley for the serpentine belt, etc) that they said that I would need to get from a mercruiser dealer. I did order the actual replacement impeller from them.

I ordered the housing from a place called BAM Marine - along with my idler pulley. Anyone tried them? They had a nice website with pictures from the service manual, by engine type, based on serial number so you were looking at the right engine. They had a good price for it - at least compared to the dealer ($88.13). My local dealer was out of stock. Hopefully it makes it. If not I will go for the JD welded one.

-- Mike

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is this what your talking about? http://bakesonline.com/detail.aspx?ID=748

Yep, that is exactly what I am talking about.

I filled up the pump housing with water in the kitchen sink to see if the JB weld would leak or not. After about 30 seconds a slow drip appeared. Bummer...glad I ordered a new one. And I get a new impeller out of it, so that's good for next season, I guess.

-- Mike

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  • 8 years later...

My 94 Echelon that metal.pump housing was a PITA.  Pump, gasket, wear plate gasket, impeller housing, gasket, rear plate with hose barbs.  The gaskets were usually stuck to both sides and tore.  Moving to the later style 1 piece plastic housing was the bomb.  Pump, o ring, wear plate O ring, housing.  Much simpler, especially in the boat.

Always pull the hoses before taking the pump loose fromy the bracket and you won't ever chop the hose barbs.  

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^^+1 on the above.  The newer style plastic housings beat all the others hands down.  Ive had brass, metal, early plastic design, but I have to tell you the crank style housing is the best so far.

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