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1st Oil Change and Oil Filter is Stuck


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I need some help and I figured this was the place where everyone knew a few tricks. I am at 10 hrs on my new boat and am in the process of chaning the oil. Unfortunately, the idiots at Indmar must put super glue on the o-ring seal instead of oil and then have a gorilla tighten it with a wrench and 4' pry bar. In trying to losen the filter, the filter base has even moved but the filter has not. I am using a rubber strap wrench (I also tried a vice type of wrench and a metal strap type of wrench and all with no luck. Any suggestions? (Yes I am turning it the correct way to losen it and my "local" dealer is 3 hrs away so that isn't a good option.)

Edited by Matt_Alger
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mine was the same

had to cut the filter off and use the holes int the top to spin it off

never have I had a oil filter so tight

don't know what the hell happen a Dontknow.gif t the factory

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The oil filter on my Nissan Armada was the cranked on from the factory tighter than any filter I have ever removed. There are 3 choices, I would say. 1) there is a type of wrench that is like a big socket that fits over the end of the filter, it fits on typically a 3/8 ratchet or breaker bar, that gives better leverage, because it won't slip, than a strap wrench, ( but you can end up twisting a filter) 2) ram a long screwdriver all the way through the filter (perpendicular, as a handle) and use it as a lever. You're going to toss the filter anyhow.- Just make sure you are far enough out on the filter not to hit the center threaded nub from the engine. 3) Take it to the dealer. I will do #3, since the 10 hour service is included on the Purchase and Sale agreement. I didn't even ask to take it off, or pay for it later, figured to keep it simple and make sure everything is checked by experts and also get my short warranty item list taken care of. Good luck! (PS, I haven't paid much attention to where the oil filter is yet, so those are not based on any access restrictions)

PS - one other way is using two wrenchs, like a strap wrench, and a filter end socket wrench, with the idea getting more grip area on the filter while twisting.

Edited by TheBlackPearl
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Use the metal strap type wrench and grab the filter at the very top, this way it won't crush. Pearl... same with my Titan.

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How do you suggest that I stop the filter base from spinning instead of the filter. I have tried the metal strap wrench at the top and it spins the filter base but not the filter.

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Use the metal strap type wrench and grab the filter at the very top, this way it won't crush. Pearl... same with my Titan.

Delt with plenty of overtight filters and what john said has always worked for me.

-Chris

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So bascially, the filter and base are now separate...in that the can will spin but the base of the filter is stuck? NEVER had that happen to me, and the worse it has ever been for me was having to jam a screwdriver thru the side of the filter all the way thru and use it to torque it back off. Dontknow.gif

How do you suggest that I stop the filter base from spinning instead of the filter. I have tried the metal strap wrench at the top and it spins the filter base but not the filter.
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mine was the same. finally got it to move a little with the metal wrench. definitely a workout. it almost got to the point where i considered using a screwdriver thru the filter but was afraid it would just peel the filter in half.

try calling indmar or your dealer for ideas.

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I think a big reason for the sticking oil filter is, when they put them on at the factory, they do not lube the threads. When you have a metal Filter thread going on to a (in most cases) aluminum oil filter adapter, the aluminum heats(expands) faster then the metal and this is what you get. I dont know this for a fact, just my suspicion. I used to work as a GM tech and I know this happens with them. When we put our filters on we put oil in them so the threads get oil on them.

Edited by txwakejunkie
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So bascially, the filter and base are now separate...in that the can will spin but the base of the filter is stuck? NEVER had that happen to me, and the worse it has ever been for me was having to jam a screwdriver thru the side of the filter all the way thru and use it to torque it back off. Dontknow.gif
How do you suggest that I stop the filter base from spinning instead of the filter. I have tried the metal strap wrench at the top and it spins the filter base but not the filter.

No, to be clear, by the "filter base" I do not mean any part of the filter itself. I mean the part where you screw the new filter onto the engine moves. It is the part in the engine where the oil hoses go to and from the oil cooler. That piece is spinning with the filter as all one unit. Fortunately, I have not ripped off the filter cover... yet. Anyone want to make a trip to Indmar and "talk to" the idiot who puts on the filters! Mad.gifBash.gifGuns.gif

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I need some help and I figured this was the place where everyone knew a few tricks. I am at 10 hrs on my new boat and am in the process of chaning the oil. Unfortunately, the idiots at Indmar must put super glue on the o-ring seal instead of oil and then have a gorilla tighten it with a wrench and 4' pry bar. In trying to losen the filter, the filter base has even moved but the filter has not. I am using a rubber strap wrench (I also tried a vice type of wrench and a metal strap type of wrench and all with no luck. Any suggestions? (Yes I am turning it the correct way to losen it and my "local" dealer is 3 hrs away so that isn't a good option.)

Honest to GOD guys, I just walked down the line at the Indmar plant and watched the guy install the oil filter! Here is the priocese. First of all. mbefore the engine goes through thew paint process a " dummy" filter is installed to keep paint off the surface whrere the filter contacts the engine. After the engine goes through the final finish paint process, the dummy filter is removed. The installer then oils the seal of a new filter and installs it hand tight on the engine. He then uses a special torque wrench to tighten the filter to specification ... approximately 17 inch pounds which equate to 3/4 to 1 turn from contact. That is the whole process. It is very controlled and consistent.

I took a copy of this thread with me and gave it to the production manager so he understands the pain. For the life of me, I can't understand why they are so hard to remove.

Larry Engelbert

Director of Customer Service

Indmar Marine Engines

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They are VERY hard to remove. I changed the oil on my 08 Monsoon this weekend, along with several other tasks. Guess what took the most time of all? Yup, getting the oil filter off.

That is the whole process. It is very controlled and consistent.

I took a copy of this thread with me and gave it to the production manager so he understands the pain. For the life of me, I can't understand why they are so hard to remove

Perhaps the process puts them on a bit tight--sounds like they are controlled and consistently too tough to get off! ;) Thanks for checking in with us.

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I had to use the screwdriver trick on my last VLX.

Same for me on our first oil change and even then it took a couple of times of pushing the screwdriver through the filter.

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I need some help and I figured this was the place where everyone knew a few tricks. I am at 10 hrs on my new boat and am in the process of chaning the oil. Unfortunately, the idiots at Indmar must put super glue on the o-ring seal instead of oil and then have a gorilla tighten it with a wrench and 4' pry bar. In trying to losen the filter, the filter base has even moved but the filter has not. I am using a rubber strap wrench (I also tried a vice type of wrench and a metal strap type of wrench and all with no luck. Any suggestions? (Yes I am turning it the correct way to losen it and my "local" dealer is 3 hrs away so that isn't a good option.)

Honest to GOD guys, I just walked down the line at the Indmar plant and watched the guy install the oil filter! Here is the priocese. First of all. mbefore the engine goes through thew paint process a " dummy" filter is installed to keep paint off the surface whrere the filter contacts the engine. After the engine goes through the final finish paint process, the dummy filter is removed. The installer then oils the seal of a new filter and installs it hand tight on the engine. He then uses a special torque wrench to tighten the filter to specification ... approximately 17 inch pounds which equate to 3/4 to 1 turn from contact. That is the whole process. It is very controlled and consistent.

I took a copy of this thread with me and gave it to the production manager so he understands the pain. For the life of me, I can't understand why they are so hard to remove.

Larry Engelbert

Director of Customer Service

Indmar Marine Engines

Do they lube the threads of the oil filter?

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Would Malibu do any further adjusting once they receive the engine? Hopefully the guy running the torque wrench didn't get his units mixed up (ftlb instead of inlb).

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I would guess that most of the 1st oil changes are done by the dealer, maybe Indmar could check with some of them for their comments.

WSA did my first couple of oil changes so I didn't see the phenonmenon.

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I need some help and I figured this was the place where everyone knew a few tricks. I am at 10 hrs on my new boat and am in the process of chaning the oil. Unfortunately, the idiots at Indmar must put super glue on the o-ring seal instead of oil and then have a gorilla tighten it with a wrench and 4' pry bar. In trying to losen the filter, the filter base has even moved but the filter has not. I am using a rubber strap wrench (I also tried a vice type of wrench and a metal strap type of wrench and all with no luck. Any suggestions? (Yes I am turning it the correct way to losen it and my "local" dealer is 3 hrs away so that isn't a good option.)

Honest to GOD guys, I just walked down the line at the Indmar plant and watched the guy install the oil filter! Here is the priocese. First of all. mbefore the engine goes through thew paint process a " dummy" filter is installed to keep paint off the surface whrere the filter contacts the engine. After the engine goes through the final finish paint process, the dummy filter is removed. The installer then oils the seal of a new filter and installs it hand tight on the engine. He then uses a special torque wrench to tighten the filter to specification ... approximately 17 inch pounds which equate to 3/4 to 1 turn from contact. That is the whole process. It is very controlled and consistent.

I took a copy of this thread with me and gave it to the production manager so he understands the pain. For the life of me, I can't understand why they are so hard to remove.

Larry Engelbert

Director of Customer Service

Indmar Marine Engines

Sounds dead on-the-$ to me. That's how I've always done my engines. Nice to have you in the Crew Larry.

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Use the metal strap type wrench and grab the filter at the very top, this way it won't crush. Pearl... same with my Titan.

Delt with plenty of overtight filters and what john said has always worked for me.

-Chris

Basicly the top 3/8" of the filter is the part that is attached to the motor. The rest is just the can that houses the media, but I have never seen them separate. If the can has seperated from the mounting means, you should be able to grab the means with channel locks.

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No, to be clear, by the "filter base" I do not mean any part of the filter itself. I mean the part where you screw the new filter onto the engine moves. It is the part in the engine where the oil hoses go to and from the oil cooler. That piece is spinning with the filter as all one unit. Fortunately, I have not ripped off the filter cover... yet. Anyone want to make a trip to Indmar and "talk to" the idiot who puts on the filters! Mad.gifBash.gifGuns.gif

And maybe just to point out here is it looks like you are working on the hammerhead which could be different than a monsoon (at least mine). You reference lines to an oil cooler. I have nothing like that. So I'm assuming you have some sort of adapter installed between the block and filter that the oil passes through and you have lake water cooling the adapter??? The filter is stuck to the adapter, and the adapter is spinning off of the block. Is that what is happening here? Is it too difficult to just remove the cooler and finish the job on the bench?

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Vette-ski,

Good point. Yes I am running the Hammerhead and there is basically no room around the oil filter. The adapter was spinning (basically the filter-adapter connection was tighter than the adapter-block connection). I removed the water inlet hose and hot shower line to get a a little better access and 2 or 3 hernias later I was able to get them apart without having to tear the filter apart. Clap.gif Unfortunately, things are so tight that I still had to almost tip the filter on its side to get it out of the boat... messy job. Hopefully I will figure out a better system in the future so I don't have to spend so much time cleaning up after.

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Vette-ski,

Good point. Yes I am running the Hammerhead and there is basically no room around the oil filter. The adapter was spinning (basically the filter-adapter connection was tighter than the adapter-block connection). I removed the water inlet hose and hot shower line to get a a little better access and 2 or 3 hernias later I was able to get them apart without having to tear the filter apart. Clap.gif Unfortunately, things are so tight that I still had to almost tip the filter on its side to get it out of the boat... messy job. Hopefully I will figure out a better system in the future so I don't have to spend so much time cleaning up after.

congrats. i use a large zip lock bag once i get the filter loose enough to spin by hand.

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I thought about the ziplock bag about a minute after I spilled some oil under the engine.

Larry,

Thanks for being part of the forum. It sounds like you have a clear process for tightening the filter but it seems that they are a bit too tight. I spoke with a couple of Mastercraft owners and one of them had to use the screwdriver trick and the other said that is was almost as tough as mine sounded but he was able to get it off without tearing the filter apart.

We all appreciate you checking into the filter tightness issue. I would bet that if you spoke with dealer service techs they would provide some additional input on the tightness issue. In my opinion it is worth at least a study to see if you can reduce the torque spec on the assembly line.

Matt

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