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How to check the timing on a 2001 Monsoon 325?


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I am going through the typical check list and wanted to check the timing. Being that it is electronic and does not have a vaccum advance, I wanted to check on the procedure. Additionally, has anybody played with advanceing the timing just a bit to gain a bit more power? With the hot rods we build, we would typically advance the timing until it just begins to rattle at wide open throttle. Any thoughts?

Thanks for the help.

JCA

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I am going through the typical check list and wanted to check the timing. Being that it is electronic and does not have a vaccum advance, I wanted to check on the procedure. Additionally, has anybody played with advanceing the timing just a bit to gain a bit more power? With the hot rods we build, we would typically advance the timing until it just begins to rattle at wide open throttle. Any thoughts?

Thanks for the help.

JCA

I believe the more you advance it for spark the hotter it will run.

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To check or adjust timing, you have to by pass the electronic spark timing (EST) unit which is done by shorting (jumping) out two terminals on the diagnostic connector. Then set what is refered to as base timing. Your owners manual might tell you which terminals, if not, a service manual will. I don't want to speculate on which terminals those may be, because different ECM's (MEFI's) could use different terminals.

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For 320 monsoon, find the 10 pin DLC (data link connector) on the back of the motor over the transmission (black/gray plug with cap). Each terminal is labeled. Get engine up to operating temp (160). With engine idling, jumper terminals A & B. Idle will raise to 1000 rpm and spark advance is shunted. You are now in base timing mode. 10 degrees BTDC is the spec. I have no experience setting timing other than stock, so play at your own risk. When you remove the jumper, idle rpm will drop back to the normal 650 rpm.

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For 320 monsoon, find the 10 pin DLC (data link connector) on the back of the motor over the transmission (black/gray plug with cap). Each terminal is labeled. Get engine up to operating temp (160). With engine idling, jumper terminals A & B. Idle will raise to 1000 rpm and spark advance is shunted. You are now in base timing mode. 10 degrees BTDC is the spec. I have no experience setting timing other than stock, so play at your own risk. When you remove the jumper, idle rpm will drop back to the normal 650 rpm.

Sounds good. Thank you very much for the detail.

JCA

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For 320 monsoon, find the 10 pin DLC (data link connector) on the back of the motor over the transmission (black/gray plug with cap). Each terminal is labeled. Get engine up to operating temp (160). With engine idling, jumper terminals A & B. Idle will raise to 1000 rpm and spark advance is shunted. You are now in base timing mode. 10 degrees BTDC is the spec. I have no experience setting timing other than stock, so play at your own risk. When you remove the jumper, idle rpm will drop back to the normal 650 rpm.

Sounds good. Thank you very much for the detail.

JCA

Just in case you are still unsure. This is from Larry at Indmar:

Tune up and Timing

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For 320 monsoon, find the 10 pin DLC (data link connector) on the back of the motor over the transmission (black/gray plug with cap). Each terminal is labeled. Get engine up to operating temp (160). With engine idling, jumper terminals A & B. Idle will raise to 1000 rpm and spark advance is shunted. You are now in base timing mode. 10 degrees BTDC is the spec. I have no experience setting timing other than stock, so play at your own risk. When you remove the jumper, idle rpm will drop back to the normal 650 rpm.

Sounds good. Thank you very much for the detail.

JCA

Just in case you are still unsure. This is from Larry at Indmar:

Tune up and Timing

According to the info from Inmar, the timing is set for life unless screwed with. I did notice that on the base of the distributor, there is a mark made by the factory. this would make it clearnothing has move over thee years. Good to know. Thanks a lot.

JCA

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