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New boat break in


vtxgman

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1st hour not over 2000 rpm, vary rpm continuously

2nd hour not over 3000 rpm, vary rpm continuously

for the next 5 hours do not exceed 4000 hours, vary rpm continuously.

this is taken from the indmar manual that you will receive with your boat. it is for all indmar models.

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I drive them just like I'm going to use them from day one.

so if you drive them to the rev limiter right out of the box and it blows in the 1st hour, do you think the warranty will cover you?

Edited by Cervelo
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I drive them just like I'm going to use them from day one.

so if you drive them to the rev limiter right out of the box and it blows in the 1st hour, do you think the warranty will cover you?

Won't happen and besides I don't regularly drive them to the rev limiter.

If thats the way you drive and it blows it was gonna blow anyway - hour 1 or hour 10.

That break in period may be a good time for someone to get acquainted with the vessel but as a guarantee of engine longevity its a waste of time.

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Do what your comfortable with, either follow the suggested procedures in the manual or drive it like you stole it. There are many theories of how to break in a motor and they all have their good and bad points. Take which ones you like and apply them. I have heard from someone, don't remember who that when the factory does their lake test they test all aspects of the boat. They don't just putt around and make sure it floats and runs at Idle, if it's going to break they would rather it happen there.

Good luck and enjoy the new boat.

Welcome.gif

Edited by NvBoarder
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I drive them just like I'm going to use them from day one.

so if you drive them to the rev limiter right out of the box and it blows in the 1st hour, do you think the warranty will cover you?

Won't happen and besides I don't regularly drive them to the rev limiter.

If thats the way you drive and it blows it was gonna blow anyway - hour 1 or hour 10.

That break in period may be a good time for someone to get acquainted with the vessel but as a guarantee of engine longevity its a waste of time.

ok, lets say the motor is defective out of the box. it blows a couple of hours in and the computer shows you did not follow break in procedures. warranty or no warranty? for the couple of hours to get the boat to 4000 rpm, why wouldn't you follow the break in procedure.

Edited by Cervelo
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3 hours max, then load er up and have fun, 3rd BU, not a problem. I have a M3 and F-250, that were driven like they were stolen from day, no problems.

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1st hour not over 2000 rpm, vary rpm continuously

2nd hour not over 3000 rpm, vary rpm continuously

for the next 5 hours do not exceed 4000 hours, vary rpm continuously.

this is taken from the indmar manual that you will receive with your boat. it is for all indmar models.

this would be easy Whistling.gif

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Do what your comfortable with, either follow the suggested procedures in the manual or drive it like you stole it. There are many theories of how to break in a motor and they all have their good and bad points. Take which ones you like and apply them. I have heard from someone, don't remember who that when the factory does their lake test they test all aspects of the boat. They don't just putt around and make sure it floats and runs at Idle, if it's going to break they would rather it happen there.

Good luck and enjoy the new boat.

Welcome.gif

I think that most who have never seen how Malibu tests their boats at the factories would be shocked at the disparity between that & what is in the manual. But yes, if it's going to break they want it to happen there. Bottom line - if you are worried about it, you should break it in the way that Malibu wants.

1st hour not over 2000 rpm, vary rpm continuously

2nd hour not over 3000 rpm, vary rpm continuously

for the next 5 hours do not exceed 4000 hours, vary rpm continuously.

this is taken from the indmar manual that you will receive with your boat. it is for all indmar models.

this would be easy Whistling.gif

Except for the part about varying the throttle. I'm not sure the rider would like that very much. Biggrin.gif

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One other thing, break in procedures used to vary according to the engine. IIRC, both the 383 Hammerhead (from '05 forward) & the 8.1L didn't require any break in period at all. LCR & Monsoon required the one outlined by Cervelo. I had heard at one point that it may have changed, but I was never able to confirm it.

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Mental note: Never buy a boat from Brad B.

Also, I would suggest listening to the engineers at Indmar rather than the dealer. The engineers may have tested an engine or two... just a thought.

By the way, if you don't follow procedures the most likely result would be more blowby due to the piston rings not seating correctly which could result in increased oil consumption or more soot in the oil which would cause accelerated wear on the engine components.

In the 2008 Indmar manual there is no difference for break in period for their different models.

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Mental note: Never buy a boat from Brad B.

Also, I would suggest listening to the engineers at Indmar rather than the dealer. The engineers may have tested an engine or two... just a thought.

By the way, if you don't follow procedures the most likely result would be more blowby due to the piston rings not seating correctly which could result in increased oil consumption or more soot in the oil which would cause accelerated wear on the engine components.

In the 2008 Indmar manual there is no difference for break in period for their different models.

Actually, engine builders generally say the opposite, particularly with regard to blow by & the rings seating correctly. But I suppose there are 2 camps on that & that's probably a debate for another thread, another time.

And as far as the manual comment goes, it hasn't been in any manual that I know of. But it was a bulletin that was issued very early in the 2006 model year that the HH needed no break in. I heard through the grapevine (which I find to be very reliable) that it applied to the 8.1L as well. The thing that I don't know is if this ever changed, & being that it's not in the manual means nothing.

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Why wouldn't you follow what the manual says...

I would hate to void the warranty, or risk voiding the warranty (granted I am sure they would honor it if you blow an engine with 1 hour on it)

IMHO, 10 hours of somewhat boring, non normal boating is a small price to pay compared to the number of hours on land dealing with getting a new engine...

Just make it another booze cruise!!!

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This has been covered before, but I thought I'd throw it out for some fun- This article says the worst thing you can do for your motor is follow the break in from the manual. All you'll do is guarantee long term mediocre performance. Break it in hard to guarantee better ring seals, better overall performance, speed, and durability.

Read this : http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

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Mental note: Never buy a boat from Brad B.

Also, I would suggest listening to the engineers at Indmar rather than the dealer. The engineers may have tested an engine or two... just a thought.

By the way, if you don't follow procedures the most likely result would be more blowby due to the piston rings not seating correctly which could result in increased oil consumption or more soot in the oil which would cause accelerated wear on the engine components.

In the 2008 Indmar manual there is no difference for break in period for their different models.

My last 4 boats are still in use. In use I mean over 100 hours a season. Two of them have over a thousand hours and none of them have had any engine problems. Friends and family can't wait to buy my last boat. I love 'em like they deserve it and use 'em like they were meant.

Mental note: Never sell a boat to Matt_Alger because he'll just list it as a trophy.

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New motors are all "opened up" before even leaving Indmar. IF you have a new boat, look for the engine test/efi report. You'll notice that RPM at WOT gets more than one "run". That said, I have always followed manual's instructions on break in.

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New motors are all "opened up" before even leaving Indmar. IF you have a new boat, look for the engine test/efi report. You'll notice that RPM at WOT gets more than one "run". That said, I have always followed manual's instructions on break in.

They're opened up on the water test too right before they're prepped to leave the factories. As I said, people would be surprised at the disparity between the water test & what Indmar recommends in the manual.

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I drive them just like I'm going to use them from day one.

Plus1.gif

Plus1.gif

We were told the Hammerhead didn't need anything. Drive it like you're going to use it.

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Brad,

Too funny! Thumbup.gif I love jacking people in these posts (and getting jacked for that matter). Yes, I would agree with you. I am "a bit" anal about my boats.

I am glad to hear that even with a very aggressive "break in procedure", these engines last!

Matt

Mental note: Never buy a boat from Brad B.

Also, I would suggest listening to the engineers at Indmar rather than the dealer. The engineers may have tested an engine or two... just a thought.

By the way, if you don't follow procedures the most likely result would be more blowby due to the piston rings not seating correctly which could result in increased oil consumption or more soot in the oil which would cause accelerated wear on the engine components.

In the 2008 Indmar manual there is no difference for break in period for their different models.

My last 4 boats are still in use. In use I mean over 100 hours a season. Two of them have over a thousand hours and none of them have had any engine problems. Friends and family can't wait to buy my last boat. I love 'em like they deserve it and use 'em like they were meant.

Mental note: Never sell a boat to Matt_Alger because he'll just list it as a trophy.

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I'm not saying I'm an expert, but I did build performance engines for 10 years and you should "break" (and I use that word loosely) in the engine proper.

Change the rpm's and load cycle to allow the rings to seat for at least 500 miles, after that you can drive it normal but try and keep the rpm's down under 4000 until you at least 1500-2000 miles on it.

Nothing "breaks in" it starts to wear from the minute you start it up but there are tight spots that you need to let wear out slowly so you don't have gauling of bearings and such.

There is more to it than that, but everyone has an opinion. One last thing, is the oil should be changed out by the first 500miles or so and inspected for metal particles. Just my $.02.

:)

Edited by 68Slalom
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