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Raw Water pump replacement


hawaiianstyln

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Anyone know where to get rebuilt or replacement raw water pumps for this engine? Also, I can't find anywhere on the pump what kind/type the pump is, anyone know?

I did some searches on this site, but no luck so far.

Keith

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Anyone know where to get rebuilt or replacement raw water pumps for this engine? Also, I can't find anywhere on the pump what kind/type the pump is, anyone know?

I did some searches on this site, but no luck so far.

Keith

Is the housing bad or something? Normally the rubber impeller fails and thats the part that needs to be replaced? Have you taken the cover off to look at the impeller??? More than likely your rubber impeller is bad. I change mine once a year at the beginning of the season. Other people change theirs every 2 yrs and so on.

Anyways here is a link with raw water pumps and impeller replacement kits...

http://www.bakesonline.com/searchresult.aspx?CategoryID=499

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Anyone know where to get rebuilt or replacement raw water pumps for this engine? Also, I can't find anywhere on the pump what kind/type the pump is, anyone know?

I did some searches on this site, but no luck so far.

Keith

Is the housing bad or something? Normally the rubber impeller fails and thats the part that needs to be replaced? Have you taken the cover off to look at the impeller??? More than likely your rubber impeller is bad. I change mine once a year at the beginning of the season. Other people change theirs every 2 yrs and so on.

Anyways here is a link with raw water pumps and impeller replacement kits...

http://www.bakesonline.com/searchresult.aspx?CategoryID=499

Plus1.gif

My guess is it should be just your impeller.

There is a crew group buy on some very good globe run dry impellers right now too. You can find more info in the group buy section.

And a big Welcome.gif to twdugas! Good info on your first post!!

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Yah, I actually change my impeller every season, but noticed some drippage behind the impeller housing that leads to the water pump..The skinny part before it goes into the water pump.. Maybe it's not the raw water pump??... Hmmmm I need to start this on the trailer hooked up to my flush kit and find out exactly. I just figured it was the raw water pump since it's been 4 years and 588 hours on the engine.

Thanks for the welcome.. :) That's exactly why I love hanging out on this site. People are so dang friendly and Malibu owners seem to be a very close family. Yah, actuallly when this site was malibuboatowners.com back in the day, I hung out here and posted religiously. Well, I guess it's wakesiderides.com, but seems like everyone came over to this site.

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...Hmmmm I need to start this on the trailer hooked up to my flush kit and find out exactly...

My engine circulation pump went out last year (lost a seal and started leaking) so definitely verify where the dripping is coming from. SkiDIM will have whatever parts you end up needing and at very fair prices. :)

Good to see you back Keith. Thumbup.gif

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If the back of the raw water pump is leaking you need a new housing.

Order from ski dim. Easy install on a Direct drive, probably not as easy on a Vdrive, but not impossible.

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Okay, I pulled the boat out of the garage and started it on the trailer. I noticed a SLOWWWW drip at first, but then after it warmed up, it dripped rappidly out of the area where the impeller housing transitions into the pump. Not sure if I'm explaining this right, but if you look really good, it looks like there are slots in the spindle housing (???) where you can almost see the shaft spinning as it goes into the raw water pump from the impleller housing (in between). I have no idea if i'm explaining this right, but....

I change my impleller out every summer. I'm also sure there are no leaks from the impleller cover plate. It's definately coming out

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  • 2 weeks later...

Finally got the pump in from J.A. Chamberlain's website (nice guy and fast shipping). The total was $141 that included: shipping, new raw water pump, gasket and impeller. What a deal!!!!!!! :)

Took me about 20 minutest to put it back on and get'er running on the trailer again.

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Finally got the pump in from J.A. Chamberlain's website (nice guy and fast shipping). The total was $141 that included: shipping, new raw water pump, gasket and impeller. What a deal!!!!!!! :)

Took me about 20 minutest to put it back on and get'er running on the trailer again.

thanks for keeping us posted

I'll be getting one of these also. Included impeller also? that is a good deal! Thumbup.gif

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  • 1 month later...
Finally got the pump in from J.A. Chamberlain's website (nice guy and fast shipping). The total was $141 that included: shipping, new raw water pump, gasket and impeller. What a deal!!!!!!! :)

Took me about 20 minutest to put it back on and get'er running on the trailer again.

thanks for keeping us posted

I'll be getting one of these also. Included impeller also? that is a good deal! Thumbup.gif

I just got mine and installed it. You were right. Only took about 20 minutes.

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  • 13 years later...

Just curious if you were having issues with your engine getting hot before you changed the raw water pump?  My engine is getting hot when in idle.  I changed the impeller and cleaned the hoses for debris.  Didn't solve my issue though.  Noticed there is some water coming out of the back of the impeller housing and wondered if a new raw water pump would solve my issue.

 

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5 hours ago, Tortoiseblur said:

Noticed there is some water coming out of the back of the impeller housing and wondered if a new raw water pump would solve my issue.

If there is water leaking out, then air could be sucked in when running, which could definitely cause a heating issue.   Is it coming from the pump housing or the face plate seal?

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  • 2 months later...

Regarding the removal of a raw water pump from a 2016 Malibu LSV, from the chat above, it sounds like you remove the three bolts that hold the raw water pump housing to the harmonic balancer and remove the bolt and nut in the steel arm that suports the raw water pump housing.  I noticed it is tight in some areas to get the three bolds that hold the raw water pump housing to the harmonic balancer.  Are you using an allen wrenchs for this tight area?  Next, you wriggle the raw water pump and/or tap it with a rubber mallet to take it off.  Am I missing anything?  Thanks to all.

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40 minutes ago, Setter2016 said:

Regarding the removal of a raw water pump from a 2016 Malibu LSV, from the chat above, it sounds like you remove the three bolts that hold the raw water pump housing to the harmonic balancer and remove the bolt and nut in the steel arm that suports the raw water pump housing.  I noticed it is tight in some areas to get the three bolds that hold the raw water pump housing to the harmonic balancer.  Are you using an allen wrenchs for this tight area?  Next, you wriggle the raw water pump and/or tap it with a rubber mallet to take it off.  Am I missing anything?  Thanks to all.

My boat is a 2001 but to my understanding it's the same and you are exactly right. I just did this last week.

If you haven't bought the pump yet, I found this. $170 + shipping. Wasn't sure when I ordered but it included an impeller, gaskets, etc and shows up ready to roll.

https://marineenginedepot.com/water-pump-johnson-f6b-9

Edited by ChadFulton
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1 hour ago, Setter2016 said:

Regarding the removal of a raw water pump from a 2016 Malibu LSV, from the chat above, it sounds like you remove the three bolts that hold the raw water pump housing to the harmonic balancer and remove the bolt and nut in the steel arm that suports the raw water pump housing.  I noticed it is tight in some areas to get the three bolds that hold the raw water pump housing to the harmonic balancer.  Are you using an allen wrenchs for this tight area?  Next, you wriggle the raw water pump and/or tap it with a rubber mallet to take it off.  Am I missing anything?  Thanks to all.

Missing nothing.. that is all there is to it from my experience.

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OK, I was able to get one of the three bolts off the water pump where it is attached to the harmonic balancer.  The other two are tucked in positions that I cannot reach with a Ratchet and Allen wrench head (They are (blocked by the water lines). Any suggestions to get them off would be greatly appreciated. Thank you. 

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2 hours ago, Setter2016 said:

OK, I was able to get one of the three bolts off the water pump where it is attached to the harmonic balancer.  The other two are tucked in positions that I cannot reach with a Ratchet and Allen wrench head (They are (blocked by the water lines). Any suggestions to get them off would be greatly appreciated. Thank you. 

Rotate the engine a bit to access the others....

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Disconnect the water lines.

Remove the bracket that keeps the pump from spinning.

Now you can spin the pump around as needed.

I prefer 1/4 socket with extended hex head on an M12 1/4 Fuel ratchet to remove the cap screws.

Sometimes you need to give the old pump a big bash to remove it.  Big 4lb HF dead blow works nicely.

I always use a little anti-seize on the mating surfaces and cap screws during reassembly.

Hand start the fine thread cap screws.

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Ok, the help with the raw water pump removal was awesome.  It worked like a charm.  I was removing the raw water pump to switch the serpentine belt to a longer belt for my upgraded 200 amp alternator.  Originally, my 2016 Wakesetter LSV25 had a 95 Amp alternator and the procedure used to start the boat was to switch the battery termination terminal from the off position to the number one position, press the power on button at the lower right portion of the dash at the drivers seat, watch the screen, enter the security code and press the start button directly next to the power button to start the engine.  Regarding the installation of the new 200 Amp Alternator, I turned the battery termination terminal to the off position (Note:  I did not remove the negative battery cable from the batteries because the battery termination terminal was in the off position and there was no electrical battery power to the engine compartment) and I then replaced the alternator with a 200 Amp alternator in accordance with the instructions from Indmar for its alternator upgrade (I tried to purchase Indmar's alternator package, but it was sold out. Because of this, I followed Indmar's instructions and purchased each of the required parts from separate vendors). The only change made to Indmar's instructions was the new alternator was not self exciting per the seller which required the wire harness plug to continue to be plugged into the new 200 Amp alternator (In the Indmar directions, their upgraded alternator was self exciting and did not need to have said wire harness plug plugged into it).  Additionally, in order to allow said wire harness plug to be plugged in, I had to cut away some of said wire harness plug's plastic housing.  In following Indmar's instructions, I installed a new negative 1/0 AWG black cable from the alternator bracket to the engine's negative post and a new positive 1/0 AWG red cable from the alternator to the positive post of the starter solenoid. 

After completing the installation of the new 200 Amp alternator, I turned the battery termination terminal from the off position to the number 1 position and the engine immediately began to turn over (I had not pressed the boat's power on button, entered the code or pressed the start button).  I immediately turned the battery termination terminal from the number 1 position to the off position.  The engine immediately stopped turning over when I did this. This took about two to three seconds to complete.  

Does anyone have any suggestions as to what I did wrong or any method to fix this?

Thanks for the help.

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Sounds like you are hooked up on wrong side of starter solenoid or something you did is bridging the solenoid.  Are you sure that you don't have an engine mounted solenoid that you should be attaching to?  Sometimes in boats the solenoid on the starter itself is permanently bridged and relies on the external to be the "switch"

Edited by oldjeep
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