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North Texas Dewinterization


jjackkrash

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This is my first winter with a boat in North Texas. When do you locals feel like its safe to dewinterize? I keep my boat in covered/enclosed but not climate controlled storage.

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I second that. Time to hit the water! Worst case, if temps do decide to drop below freezing for more than a few hours one night, then just run a drop light with a 60w bulb into the engine compartment. That will put out plenty of heat to keep the block from freezing. I live in Austin, and about the only thing I do during the 'winter' is put fuel stabilizer in the tank.

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I have been out three times already this year, unfortunately, none in my boat. I'm itching to get it out and may have to go explore the Brazos sometime soon. Anything to be watchful of?

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I went across the lake Tuesday morning in a 12' aluminum courtesy boat from the Marina to check on the houseboat, does that count ?

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It doesn't take much to dewinterize. If you want to go out, put the plugs in, connect the hose, and go. When your done, 're-winterize'. It doesn't get cold enough here generally to matter.

That said, given the stupid weather in Texas, I generally pull the plugs after coming in until early March-ish.

Being stored indoors, even w/o climate control, you're likely ok unless the sun goes dark. It depends on your risk tolerance level tho. WIth my luck, I choose better safe than screwed.

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I have been out three times already this year, unfortunately, none in my boat. I'm itching to get it out and may have to go explore the Brazos sometime soon. Anything to be watchful of?

Stumps, inside curves of the river, sand bars.

Which part are you thinking about? I think Tin Top is cleaner (not as many stick ups except at the water's edge) than The Secret Spot and it's closer to you too.

BTW...you guys know this is the last weekend for the Dallas Boat Show, we'll be there Sunday afternoon.

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The only thing I'd worry about down by you is a light freeze and my heater core cracking. That is the softest part you have to really worry about. It has to get really cold for more than a few hours before you need to worry about water in your engine compartment freezing, let alone cracking your block.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Ok, so, last weekend it was 80 degrees and I dewinterized. Now, a front is coming through and its supposed to drop in the twenties tonight, 25 tomorrow night, with 4 inches of snow. I don't have electricity at the storgage facility, so I can't run a lightbulb. I don't really want to pull the boat home and let 4 inches of snow cover it.

I was think on getting a small propane heater, opening engine compartment, and putting the cover on it. I am only mildly worried about a fire risk.

Is this plan sound or flawed? Thoughts?

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Is the storage facility enclosed? If so, I'd not worry about it. It needs to be quite cold for an extended period of time before the area will get cold enough to cause an issue.

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Is the storage facility enclosed? If so, I'd not worry about it. It needs to be quite cold for an extended period of time before the area will get cold enough to cause an issue.

The storage facility is "enclosed" but its not really sealed. My father--in the boat business his whole life--thinks that an overnight 30 is no problem, but that an overnight in the mid to upper twenties is a problem--at least not worth the risk. I just don't want to gamble on a new crate motor.

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If you're only talking about one or two nights...for about $6-7 you could get a box of two Therma-Care™ Heat Wraps. The kind that go on your lower back. Put one on each side of the motor. :unsure: They stay warm for like 10 hours...just a thought.

On a side note...if you're ever skiing in really cold water with cold air too...one of these heatwraps on your lower back inside the drysuit... Thumbup.gif

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Hey Jack - what'd you end up doing with the pig? Looks like it stayed plenty warm last night...one more to go and the warm weather returns.

Stayed warm enough last night. Tonight is supposed to be a harder freeze though.

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how about you just drain down the block and be sure your ok? it is only a 10 minute job.

Never done it. I know its supposed to be easy, but I'd worry I missed a plug.

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how about you just drain down the block and be sure your ok? it is only a 10 minute job.

Never done it. I know its supposed to be easy, but I'd worry I missed a plug.

There's only one plug on each side of the block...you can't miss em!

From the PCM site, here's your steps:

1. Remove the following drain plugs to drain coolant

from the fresh-water cooling system:

− Drain plug on heat exchanger

− Remove the large hose from the engine block

water circulating pump, or drain plug on

circulation pump

− Drain plugs on the cylinder block (one on

each side)

2. Remove the following drain plugs to raw water

from the fresh-water cooling system:

− Drain plug on oil cooler

− Drain plug on heat exchanger

− Drain plug on the bottom of each exhaust

manifold

3. After system has drained completely, coat all the

drain plugs with PerfectSeal (or equivalent) and

reinstall in the proper locations. Reinstall the

hose(s) on the water circulating pump and tighten

the clamps securely.

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how about you just drain down the block and be sure your ok? it is only a 10 minute job.

Never done it. I know its supposed to be easy, but I'd worry I missed a plug.

There's only one plug on each side of the block...you can't miss em!

From the PCM site, here's your steps:

1. Remove the following drain plugs to drain coolant

from the fresh-water cooling system:

− Drain plug on heat exchanger

− Remove the large hose from the engine block

water circulating pump, or drain plug on

circulation pump

− Drain plugs on the cylinder block (one on

each side)

2. Remove the following drain plugs to raw water

from the fresh-water cooling system:

− Drain plug on oil cooler

− Drain plug on heat exchanger

− Drain plug on the bottom of each exhaust

manifold

3. After system has drained completely, coat all the

drain plugs with PerfectSeal (or equivalent) and

reinstall in the proper locations. Reinstall the

hose(s) on the water circulating pump and tighten

the clamps securely.

Two questions: Do you know where can you pick up PerfectSeal or equivalent? And, after step 3, is it ready to throw back in the water?

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how about you just drain down the block and be sure your ok? it is only a 10 minute job.

Never done it. I know its supposed to be easy, but I'd worry I missed a plug.

There's only one plug on each side of the block...you can't miss em!

From the PCM site, here's your steps:

1. Remove the following drain plugs to drain coolant

from the fresh-water cooling system:

− Drain plug on heat exchanger

− Remove the large hose from the engine block

water circulating pump, or drain plug on

circulation pump

− Drain plugs on the cylinder block (one on

each side)

2. Remove the following drain plugs to raw water

from the fresh-water cooling system:

− Drain plug on oil cooler

− Drain plug on heat exchanger

− Drain plug on the bottom of each exhaust

manifold

3. After system has drained completely, coat all the

drain plugs with PerfectSeal (or equivalent) and

reinstall in the proper locations. Reinstall the

hose(s) on the water circulating pump and tighten

the clamps securely.

Two questions: Do you know where can you pick up PerfectSeal or equivalent? And, after step 3, is it ready to throw back in the water?

I've always used one wrap of telfon tape on the plug threads and you're good to go...

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