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replacing steering cable


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When we got our boat out of storage this spring our steering was really stiff. After talking to our mechanic he said we need to get a new cable. I have two questions, is replacing the cable something that my dad and I could do fairly easily (we are by no means mechanics or good at this stuff) but it doesn't seem like it would be too dificult. My second question is what cable do I need? I know its a teleflex but I cant find the length. I was told the number would be on the cable but I couldn't find it. BTW our boats a 1999 SSLXi.

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Troy (SacRiverRat) and I just got done doing it on his LSV. It was very easy to be honest. You'll need some basic wrench tools, an electrician's fish tape, black electrical tape, some grease, and a bit of patience. It will take you two or three hours at the most. Having a second set of hands to help fish the cable through is very helpful.

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do a search on WSR - I replaced my cable this time last year. I also have a 99 Lxi. The length is printed in white lettering within 18 inches from one end or the other. I got my cable from boatfix.com. If you cant find it, let me know and I'll check mine.

Remove the cable from the rudder. Turn the wheel to full lock with the rudder end retracted. Then disconnect from the steering wheel. Tape (securely) a rope to the rudder end of the cable and pull from the helm side. It will pull fairly easy until the very last part. You may have to work it around a bit, but it will pull through.

Remove the rope from the old cable and tape it to the new cable. This is where a second person is helpful, but I did it myself. Feed the cable back the way it came out, while pulling on the rope to guide it along it's original path.

Re-connect both ends of the cable. You may have to remove the helm end and re-position the steering wheel to get it to the correct position (wide part up while going straight).

It isn't difficult, but can be a little frustrating. It was worth it, my boat turns sooo nice now.

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Yea - night and day difference driving the boat.

Couple of additional pointers:

1) Verify that the rack end (at the steering wheel) matches the one you took off - mine was wrong, there was an "extreme duty" teleflex version on my boat, and so John and I did the R&R twice.. yea fun..

2) To remove the adjustment tube just use some vicegrips on the black tube, while you wrench on the big silver nut. On my boat, I found it was easiest to disconnect from the pivot block, and the rudder - and the helm... then slide the cable up a bit, and then pull it out from under the engine where I could wrench on that nut easier - of course on your DD application you may not have the same clearance issue.

3) when doing the final alignment - the rudder is turned slightly to the left, when it is going straight. You might want to study your existing setup first - so you can get it as close as possible.

4) The pivot block (the block on the adjusting tube) doesn't need to come off - you just have to unbolt the big silver nut at the end of the cable, and it all slides out of the black tube

... once you get down there some of these little things may make more sense - good luck - it really is easy

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Thanks for the help! I am going to check the boat again for the numbers. I have greased the rudder, removed the silver nut and pulled back the cable and greased it but with no luck. I can't move the wheel with one hand..its a B***h!!! I am going to shasta tomorrow morning so I am just going to have to fight with it while I am there and when I get back I (and hopefully my dad) will take care of this problem.

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okay, here is the number that I found, it was facing the wrong way but I think I got it right, SSC13419 does this sound like a correct part number???

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  • 2 weeks later...
Yea - night and day difference driving the boat. 

Couple of additional pointers:

1)  Verify that the rack end (at the steering wheel) matches the one you took off - mine was wrong, there was an "extreme duty" teleflex version on my boat, and so John and I did the R&R twice.. yea fun..

2)  To remove the adjustment tube just use some vicegrips on the black tube, while you wrench on the big silver nut.  On my boat, I found it was easiest to disconnect from the pivot block, and the rudder - and the helm... then slide the cable up a bit, and then pull it out from under the engine where I could wrench on that nut easier - of course on your DD application you may not have the same clearance issue.

3) when doing the final alignment - the rudder is turned slightly to the left, when it is going straight.  You might want to study your existing setup first - so you can get it as close as possible. 

4) The pivot block (the block on the adjusting tube) doesn't need to come off - you just have to unbolt the big silver nut at the end of the cable, and it all slides out of the black tube

... once you get down there some of these little things may make more sense - good luck - it really is easy

The cable just came via UPS today Gerrrrrrr......I ordered it over a week ago Mad.gif But I am going to try to get it installed tonight if I have some time! Thanks for the tip about the rudder position, I will try to remember that!

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