Going to buy a spare prop..

[68Slalom]

I have an 21XTI with the V25 Hull. I would like to buy a new prop. and keep my stock prop as a back up, I have the stock 3 blade and need to pull it and find out what the pitch is. There are no numbers on it that I can see unless they are behind the nut.

I have talked with my dealer and did a search with not very much luck. Our service dept. has a new Manager and he "DOES NOT" know very much about boats, he seems very responsible to make things happen to run the store but not very technical.

My plan is to add some more ballast in the back and up front but haven't settled on how much weight yet. I only have the center factory ballast for now.

What I would like to get out of it is this:

#1 Best over all hole shot for slalom skiing.

#2 Good enough for wakeboarding, we are not planning on trying to surf behind it anytime soon.

#3 Not worried about overall top speed.

Any input would be greatfully accepted.

Thanks

[WakeGirl]

Tony,

Get out & baseline what you've got right now. Overall top speed & rpms turned at WOT, then use the good ol' Butt Dyno to get a feel for what the hole shot is like both with & without a skier. Get your numbers off of your stock prop (it's probably an Acme 515) to be sure, & we'll go from there. If it's a 515 & you're wanting more out of the hole, I'd suggest an Acme 525. That's what we went to with our direct drive & it was a great low end prop. OJ may have an even better solution, but I'm not up to speed on their direct drive props. I wouldn't suggest going to a 4 blade mainly because you can get pretty much all of what you want out of a modern cnc 3-blade, & by doing that you won't take anything off of the top end if you do it right. That way if you want to start footin', you've got the speed on the top to do it.

[68Slalom]

Tony,

Get out & baseline what you've got right now. Overall top speed & rpms turned at WOT, then use the good ol' Butt Dyno to get a feel for what the hole shot is like both with & without a skier. Get your numbers off of your stock prop (it's probably an Acme 515) to be sure, & we'll go from there. If it's a 515 & you're wanting more out of the hole, I'd suggest an Acme 525. That's what we went to with our direct drive & it was a great low end prop. OJ may have an even better solution, but I'm not up to speed on their direct drive props. I wouldn't suggest going to a 4 blade mainly because you can get pretty much all of what you want out of a modern cnc 3-blade, & by doing that you won't take anything off of the top end if you do it right. That way if you want to start footin', you've got the speed on the top to do it.

Tracie, do you do this with it's fully loaded or empty. What I mean is I have tried it but, I have had the bimini up and wakeboards hanging off the tower. What I have not done is track how long it takes to get up to top mph. I'm sure I need to test it the way we will be pulling a skier, but I'm not sure if you have more information on this as a baseline. My top speed is 47 miles per hour and rpm's are at 5K, but this was going into the wind and I'm not sure what the wind speed was and if that is a factor in what you want me to do? I haven't had it WOT for very long, I only have 18 hours on it so far.

Edited June 19, 2007 by 68Slalom

[WakeGirl]

I would test it the way that you normally run it since it won't be very often that you'll have it completely unloaded. Take the bimini down, but don't worry about the rest. Also, I forgot to mention that speed should be tested using GPS. If you don't have one, I'd be happy to bring mine to WOW next month. The big thing though is your rpms & what you're turning now.

[kiley]

Tony,

Get out & baseline what you've got right now. Overall top speed & rpms turned at WOT, then use the good ol' Butt Dyno to get a feel for what the hole shot is like both with & without a skier. Get your numbers off of your stock prop (it's probably an Acme 515) to be sure, & we'll go from there. If it's a 515 & you're wanting more out of the hole, I'd suggest an Acme 525. That's what we went to with our direct drive & it was a great low end prop. OJ may have an even better solution, but I'm not up to speed on their direct drive props. I wouldn't suggest going to a 4 blade mainly because you can get pretty much all of what you want out of a modern cnc 3-blade, & by doing that you won't take anything off of the top end if you do it right. That way if you want to start footin', you've got the speed on the top to do it.

I have an iRide with the LCR 320. It came stock with the Acme515 (13x12). I talked to Eric at OJ and he recommended the 324, (13x11). I am looking for a little better hole shot with little concern for the top end. I would suggest giving Eric a call, great guy with lots of knowledge. His number is 800-359-9730 .

I believe the Group Buy on OJ runs until the end of the month. The Acme GB has ended.

Edited June 19, 2007 by kiley

[WakeGirl]

As I recall edwin recommended the OJ over the Acme because he thought that the wake was a bit softer than what the Acme produced. I just couldn't remember the model that he recommended. Maybe either Addictedto6 or edwin will chime in, they both have good experience with the OJ line on ddrives.

[68Slalom]

I would test it the way that you normally run it since it won't be very often that you'll have it completely unloaded. Take the bimini down, but don't worry about the rest. Also, I forgot to mention that speed should be tested using GPS. If you don't have one, I'd be happy to bring mine to WOW next month. The big thing though is your rpms & what you're turning now.

I think I'll wait for the WOW to do the testing with you and Joe, I'm not worried about the Group Buy running out. I have gotten some pretty good deals from my local service dept. lately, I just want to know that I'm getting what I really need and I'm willing to wait as long as I don't mess up the one I have know (knock on wood).

[Molarbu]

I have the 23 xti and it came with the acme 515 (13x 12). I'm pretty happy with the performance but I just bought the oj 13 x 11.5 as a spare but have not put it on yet. I'll probably do that this week and then I can give more info, although I imagine it's not much different with the pitch only being 1/2 inch different.

[wienrdog]

Edwin liked the 13x11.5 for his 2001 Sunsetter LXi for slalom wake and hole shot, but got the 13x12 because he had a long run to his skiing spot and felt that the 100RM or so difference between the two props would help gas mileage.

Edited June 19, 2007 by weinrdog

[edwin]

I just bought another XMP, this one for my RLXi. Eric cut an 'edwin special' for me...loving it so far. 13x11.5 with lots of cup...holeshot of the 11.5 but spins running and skiing rpms closer to the 13x12.

[VinRLX]

I think I may need an 'Edwin Special.' Have never been able to convince myself to deviate from the current ACME 13x12--don't want to lose holeshot or top speed. Now, if I could get more of one without losing the other. . .

[D-GOOSE]

I think I may need an 'Edwin Special.' Have never been able to convince myself to deviate from the current ACME 13x12--don't want to lose holeshot or top speed. Now, if I could get more of one without losing the other. . .

From what I have heard Edwin and Eric (at OJ) have worked vary hard on getting the best of both worlds. Hope Edwin can post up a full report on his finding some time.

[WakeGirl]

I think I may need an 'Edwin Special.' Have never been able to convince myself to deviate from the current ACME 13x12--don't want to lose holeshot or top speed. Now, if I could get more of one without losing the other. . .

From what I have heard Edwin and Eric (at OJ) have worked vary hard on getting the best of both worlds. Hope Edwin can post up a full report on his finding some time.

I agree, at least on the 4 blades they've done a great job. If I were you Jack, I'd give that OJ a try.

[edwin]

I'll put together a full report when I get a few mins. In short, Give Eric a ring and see what he has to say. FWIW, my ACME 13x12 stocker and OJ 13x12 run virtually identical rpms across the entire range. PP baselines are within a few rpms, WOT is within a 25 rpms of each other, etc. Top end speed is within .2 mph as well.

My edwin special is a 13x11.5 XMP with .120 cup. The goal was to create the holeshot of the ACME 13x12 with the skiing characteristics of the OJ 13x12. The standard 13x11.5 would spin more rpms than the 13x12 I already have...not what I was looking to do. By adding all the cup, it slowed down the rpms a bit. In short, I have what I believe is the best of both worlds for my use. I get a strong holeshot, 3350 rpms at 34mph, and the great wakes of the XMP. My top speed is down about 1.5 mph from the other props but I realized that was going to happen when I added all the cup to the 13x11.5.

[68Slalom]

Tony,

Get out & baseline what you've got right now. Overall top speed & rpms turned at WOT, then use the good ol' Butt Dyno to get a feel for what the hole shot is like both with & without a skier. Get your numbers off of your stock prop (it's probably an Acme 515) to be sure, & we'll go from there. If it's a 515 & you're wanting more out of the hole, I'd suggest an Acme 525. That's what we went to with our direct drive & it was a great low end prop. OJ may have an even better solution, but I'm not up to speed on their direct drive props. I wouldn't suggest going to a 4 blade mainly because you can get pretty much all of what you want out of a modern cnc 3-blade, & by doing that you won't take anything off of the top end if you do it right. That way if you want to start footin', you've got the speed on the top to do it.

I have an iRide with the LCR 320. It came stock with the Acme515 (13x12). I talked to Eric at OJ and he recommended the 324, (13x11). I am looking for a little better hole shot with little concern for the top end. I would suggest giving Eric a call, great guy with lots of knowledge. His number is 800-359-9730 .

I believe the Group Buy on OJ runs until the end of the month. The Acme GB has ended.

Thanks

[VinRLX]

The goal was to create the holeshot of the ACME 13x12 with the skiing characteristics of the OJ 13x12.

You're saying the ACME 13x12 has more holeshot than OJ 13x12 or did you mean ACME 13x11.5? Be interested to hear a more detailed analysis when you have more time.

[edwin]

The goal was to create the holeshot of the ACME 13x12 with the skiing characteristics of the OJ 13x12.

You're saying the ACME 13x12 has more holeshot than OJ 13x12 or did you mean ACME 13x11.5? Be interested to hear a more detailed analysis when you have more time.

in short, on my RLXi, the ACME 13x12 gets out of the hole a little faster than the OJ 13x12. That said, the 13x12 had no issues whatsoever getting up to speed in a hurry...the ACME was just a tad faster.

when the props were on my SLXi, was not the case at all. I needed an ACME 13x11.5 to get it up and going...and the OJ 13x12 did a great job on that boat.

end of the day, you just need to try one and see if it works for you. I'm splitting hairs with my props (wife says it's cuz I have more money than sense)...regardless, I love the new OJ.

[68Slalom]

The goal was to create the holeshot of the ACME 13x12 with the skiing characteristics of the OJ 13x12.

You're saying the ACME 13x12 has more holeshot than OJ 13x12 or did you mean ACME 13x11.5? Be interested to hear a more detailed analysis when you have more time.

in short, on my RLXi, the ACME 13x12 gets out of the hole a little faster than the OJ 13x12. That said, the 13x12 had no issues whatsoever getting up to speed in a hurry...the ACME was just a tad faster.

when the props were on my SLXi, was not the case at all. I needed an ACME 13x11.5 to get it up and going...and the OJ 13x12 did a great job on that boat.

end of the day, you just need to try one and see if it works for you. I'm splitting hairs with my props (wife says it's cuz I have more money than sense)...regardless, I love the new OJ.

I wish I had that problem but if I had to pay for sense than I'd be broke (LOL)