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Looking for guidance - removing the prop


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I posted this in the Prop Group buy forum too, but realized this is probably the correct place for it, sorry about the double post.

So I was excited to get to the lake and put on my new OJ 475 from the group buy. I removed the cotter pin, backed the nylock nut off of the drive shaft and put on the OJ prop puller as instructed. Boat up on the lift, tools on the teak deck and put shaft key in the top poisiton of the drive shaft.

Put a chunk of wood in place to better hold the prop (Acme 381), and began turning the prop puller nut. After about 6 turns or so, the puller got tight enough that I couldn't hold the board and turn the puller nut anymore by myself so my brother jumped in to hold the board while I continued to turn on the puller nut.

To make a longer story short, we kept turning and the pin on the puller broke out and we had to back the puller off though not before gouging an edge of the tip of the drive shaft Mad.gif . Fortunatley, I don't believe the gouge is in a place that is going to require repair or going to effect performce, but the prop is still locked-on... :( we could get it to budge. Dontknow.gif

That AND the brand new OJ prop puller (c-style) is busted. I may have done this wrong but was sure to follow the directions, I found here and on WSR for changing props... so I still have the 475 in it's box and very sad that it is not on the boat.

Any help and all crew suggestions with this are much appreciated.

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I'm not sure what insructions you read but the puller bolt should be fairly tight and then struck with a hammer on the square end of the bolt.

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Not sure if we have the same puller but mine specifically stated the bolt is NOT to pull the prop off (like a gear puller would) but rather its sole purpose is to keep the puller snugged up while you hit the far end (towards the bow) of the puller with a hammer.

I too tried to reef that stinkin' bolt down as hard as I could and was contemplating getting a serious leverage bar when I realized the little saying I have at the bottom of each of my posts: "If it seems like it is too hard, then you are doing something wrong". Then, I re-read my directions and focused simply on hammering. It came loose quite easily then and nothing was broken.

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Thanks Guys, I'm getting responses in the Prop Group Buy thread as well, and feedback seems similiar. Eric at OJ ask me to give him a call as well regarding the puller. Thumbup.gif

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If that don't work, get a bigger hammer.

Although I didn't include it in my last post on this topic, the bigger hammer is exactly what I needed. 5 lb hand sledges work wonders when applied properly.

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Get the puller snug, and then on the back of the puller (near the hub of the prop) there is a flat area on the puller. Strike this portion of the puller with the hammer a couple of times. Then maybe tighten the puller again a little and strike again. It should pop right off. All of the props we have changed came off quickly using this method. Just make sure the nut is still on the shaft, cuz when it pops it will slide right off.

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I wonder if one of the things that should be included as winterization is removal of the prop. I've seen way too many posts by people with boats that have never had the prop off that have had a lot of difficulty getting them loose.

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I wonder if one of the things that should be included as winterization is removal of the prop. I've seen way too many posts by people with boats that have never had the prop off that have had a lot of difficulty getting them loose.

Done porperly its not a big deal... Dontknow.gif

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Just talked with Eric at OJ and he is sending me a replacement puller (excellent customer experience from OJ).

He also was sure to mention to me the following so I'm posting in hopes this helps someone else:

On Prop Pull

1) Keep the nylock nut on the end of the shaft, the prop will shoot off the shaft without it

2) If doing a prop change on a lift or in a lake (which I am) tie off the puller to something because it will pop off into the lake when the prop goes (I may also add some bright color to the puller, easier to find in four feet of water Innocent.gif ).

3) Make sure to have key in 12:00 position (yep) and;

On Prop Install

1) When done correctly, there should be a clear, metal to metal "pop" sound that ensures the prop is properly seated on the shaft.

2) It may take a couple of trys to shove the new prop on, don't use the nut to drive it on, this usually causes the key to "walk" which isn't what you want

Everyone has been very helpful, I look forward to applying this additional information and hopefully reporting back on a successful prop change. Acme 381 to OJ 475 (XMP Edge). Rockon.gif AND trying out the new Yellow Loogey from Insland Surfer Clap.gif .

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I wonder if one of the things that should be included as winterization is removal of the prop. I've seen way too many posts by people with boats that have never had the prop off that have had a lot of difficulty getting them loose.

Absolutley and why not. It might have helped me. I read multiple directions on prop change but evidently still didn't do it right.

As a first time prop changer I feel that I have a much better idea of what to expect now that I have had some trouble and have talked it through in more detail with some knowledgable folks.

Mind you, I'll probably feel even better once I successfully am able to apply this information and get that OJ 475 running.

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I wonder if one of the things that should be included as winterization is removal of the prop. I've seen way too many posts by people with boats that have never had the prop off that have had a lot of difficulty getting them loose.

I can say with certainty that the guy I bought the boat from never had it off. That is why it was SOOOOO hard the first time I changed it. Now I take it off as part of winterization and I don't even need the puller.

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