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I am looking at a 2017 M235 and a 2017 24 MXZ, and I am unsure which boat to go with. They're both equally priced and roughly the same engine hours. I am trying to understand from those who have experienced both which they would own? Thanks!

I’ve had good luck with Spray nine cleaner and a brush

If it were me and within 8-10 hrs. I would drive to check it. had a friend decide he was going to drive from the Central Valley to Texas for an 24MXZ, and he was glad he did. I think he was 22 hrs 1 way. He almost left and drove home. Let’s just say it was not as described. The dealer ended up sending him to dinner and working on the boat all night and making it right. I think it’s been 3 yrs and the brown texas mud is still noticeable on the Bimini 😳😳

Thank goodness for a post from a buoy turner. Replace them suckers. Ha, they are probably hard too from sun beating. New ones are softer to hit, especially when they are warm.

Get new ones at some point. They also make spray paint that works on rubber. Our guys do that and it works for a while but at some point you just got to crack open the wallet.

There is a company that makes Malibu specific brackets. I can't find the link now, but if I do I will post. Friend purchased some and used plywood and seadeck for his tantrum. Worked well.

Magic eraser? Or Tony’s Topical Toilet Tonic?

Hey All, Getting to that time to clean up the course - all my buoys starting, driving and turning are all black from sitting on the water and ideas on cleaning them? I tried bleach and a couple other products and nothing works - am I stuck with dirty balls?

Great Lakes Skipper may have one, a shot in the dark. It is also a fairly easy DIY project if you come up empty. Good luck.

I had the first year they did the LX, 19 maybe? I liked it. I appreciated its honesty. Hard to call it an axis cross, but it kind of was. A little smaller feeling but which was fine for us.

That sounds like a great idea. Keep isolating until you find it.

I use this stuff which is really more of a polish than a compound: https://a.co/d/jbwNDka it works great on a slightly firmer pad. then I wax/seal with the super soft pad and whatever bottle of wax I’m working through. generally do this annually on “put the boat down for winter nap” day, with a wax mid season. But on the old boat my platform got super oxidized (in the places the buffer won’t reach) and I used this to bring it back when I pulled the platform and replaced the swim pad. . so in short, other than potentially wasting a little time from not going aggro enough, the firmish pad / polish method has worked for me to bring back the shine

One more piece, this is not in the switched ignition circuit from what I can tell. If the red wire is connected it will trip the breaker before the boat is powered on at all. It is in ignition circuit before “on”switch.

I realize I’m hijacking this thread, but what’s the tint percentage on that glass on your boat @dalt1?

I love this site because it’s got so many individuals with very solid knowledge base

That is when I clean the inside of my truck. Nobody wants my truck when I am done with it.

The warranty expired earlier this month unfortunately and I kind of want to avoid the usual dealer inquisition as to “why do I think I need a new “X”, it could be something more significant, so it’s best to let us check it out” during the start of the season and @ $150 an hour, pass! Realistically I will probably have to call them, but that is my last resort.

...and give the rudder zerk only one or two pumps of grease. Any more and it will blow the seal and you'll have to pull the rudder to fix it.

Anyone have a general idea on the cost per mile of shipping a boat? Found a boat we might be interested in, but its a couple states away.. How would you go about checking out the boat?

Just Do It!

Oh dam..."fix it up all pretty right before you sell it" lol That's my M.O. for my cars haha

Did you go through the list of items that @csleaver mentioned above? He normally doesn't leave any stones unturned in his answers.

No warranty left? I would still give your dealer a call and see if they can at least get you a part number for you specific hull number. I believe there were a few variations as they ran into issues in the early years.

csleaver- your knowledge is super helpful! I'm on the right track. So, at the ignition breaker, I have pinpointed that this red wire in the wire loom is the culprit. I have verified it shorts to ground by disconnecting the battery and getting 12V to it back feeding through the ground. This red wire is super hard to trace back through the loom and under the dash, but there is a (maybe 16-pin) connector at the top of the dash that it seems to go to. When I have this wire disconnected, I can turn the battery on, push button on, and I only get the small dash screen to work. It seems to function correctly - bilges blower, lights, etc. The main screen is not coming on though. Should I try disconnecting the engine harness and see if that helps? Here is a pic of the wire I'm dealing with and the harness under the dash. EDIT: I tried to attached a couple pics and it didn't like my iCloud link.

Anyone happen to know the part # for a 2019 M5 raw water pump? The one I have sounds like it’s about to go out. I have already isolated the issue to the pump and not the valve train which was a major scare to say the least. Yes I could go get one from the dealer, but I am looking to save the drive if possible. I did an online search for the original Sherwood and for a Johnson if available, but came up empty. This is what is on the current Sherwood plate: P1505 / 18247 Thanks for the help.