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I realize I’m hijacking this thread, but what’s the tint percentage on that glass on your boat @dalt1?

I love this site because it’s got so many individuals with very solid knowledge base

That is when I clean the inside of my truck. Nobody wants my truck when I am done with it.

The warranty expired earlier this month unfortunately and I kind of want to avoid the usual dealer inquisition as to “why do I think I need a new “X”, it could be something more significant, so it’s best to let us check it out” during the start of the season and @ $150 an hour, pass! Realistically I will probably have to call them, but that is my last resort.

...and give the rudder zerk only one or two pumps of grease. Any more and it will blow the seal and you'll have to pull the rudder to fix it.

Anyone have a general idea on the cost per mile of shipping a boat? Found a boat we might be interested in, but its a couple states away.. How would you go about checking out the boat?

Just Do It!

Oh dam..."fix it up all pretty right before you sell it" lol That's my M.O. for my cars haha

Did you go through the list of items that @csleaver mentioned above? He normally doesn't leave any stones unturned in his answers.

No warranty left? I would still give your dealer a call and see if they can at least get you a part number for you specific hull number. I believe there were a few variations as they ran into issues in the early years.

csleaver- your knowledge is super helpful! I'm on the right track. So, at the ignition breaker, I have pinpointed that this red wire in the wire loom is the culprit. I have verified it shorts to ground by disconnecting the battery and getting 12V to it back feeding through the ground. This red wire is super hard to trace back through the loom and under the dash, but there is a (maybe 16-pin) connector at the top of the dash that it seems to go to. When I have this wire disconnected, I can turn the battery on, push button on, and I only get the small dash screen to work. It seems to function correctly - bilges blower, lights, etc. The main screen is not coming on though. Should I try disconnecting the engine harness and see if that helps? Here is a pic of the wire I'm dealing with and the harness under the dash. EDIT: I tried to attached a couple pics and it didn't like my iCloud link.

Anyone happen to know the part # for a 2019 M5 raw water pump? The one I have sounds like it’s about to go out. I have already isolated the issue to the pump and not the valve train which was a major scare to say the least. Yes I could go get one from the dealer, but I am looking to save the drive if possible. I did an online search for the original Sherwood and for a Johnson if available, but came up empty. This is what is on the current Sherwood plate: P1505 / 18247 Thanks for the help.

Malibu sent the wrong rudder.....

that is a great idea and should have mentioned the rudder check. Often people think it is the steering cable but a lot often do not even lube the rudder housing and things go bad quickly. @John I.

The write up by oldjeep is great! After disconnecting the steering cable from the rudder, turn the rudder back and forth by hand to ensure it is not binding and the problem is indeed the cable.

Before you spend the money on a cable, please confirm that it is just "stiff" and no pulling to one side when at speed? If so, that is rudder pre-load and is normal for an inboard slalom ski boat. If it is just stiff in general, and more stiff at speed, then disconnect the end of the cable from the rudder tiller and see how stiff it is by moving the steering wheel. Then check the rudder for smooth rotation...there is a chance your rudder bushing is damaged and is binding and the cable is fine.

You need a new cable as said. Tape/attached the new cable to the old and pull through after you detach everything.

I understand (and agree) completely. I was just pointing out a collateralized $20M floor plan to a 17 store dealership chain didn’t seem unreasonably risky. When that goes well over 9 figures, I agree a lot starts changing. EDIT: And thx for the compliment! Same here.

I'm scared to drill to install Phender Pros, and that's above the water line! Nice job on the lights, show us some in use pics next!

Ok thank for the reply! I have replaced that already and stilL having that same issue. Any other thoughts on here?

Thanks for the info

For sure I don’t know specifics on Tommy’s situation. How could any of us… private company and whatnot. But I do have quite a bit of experience both raising large amounts of commercial debt and managing debt on corporate balance sheets, servicing that debt, refinancing / re-pricing that debt, credit ratings, interest rates, etc. I have loads of respect for you, 85 (always have, I think you know that) so take this as simply me sharing some of my experience and principles I’ve learned (and am now applying here, a close but not exactly identical set of circumstances)… In my experience, commercial credit isn’t driven by volume or wow factor. It’s driven by RISK. That is all the banks really care about. “Am I going to get my money back?” is what they care about, not an impressive or inflated growth rate. People make this mistake all the time when they do a large commercial debt raise… “I’m gonna show these guys how awesome my growth rate is and how much market share I have.” They fail to understand their audience; lenders are not equity investors. Growth is not what banks care about. They would rather see SLOW, steady top-line growth and LARGE free cash flow that is BANKABLE and not susceptible to the way the winds blow. “Hockey stick” top line growth actually scares them. I simply don’t believe Tommy’s has steady, consistent cash flow (like 20% - 30% demonstrated over years). I also think the bank knows this industry can and does flip on a dime; they have long memories. And think about the pitch… “Uh, we need to increase our credit line because Malibu wants us to sit on more inventory.” It takes the bank about 30 seconds to do the math and assess the risk of that increased inventory turning stale. I also believe that if they just recently raised their credit limit, it wasn’t likely done for free (it never is cuz the leverage ratio changes and not in a good way). All that is factored into the bank’s risk model. And as Tommy’s asks for more it’s a simple calculation… what is the implied debt to earnings/fcf ratio? What is the risk profile of the industry? The higher those variables go … well, so goes the juice! 100% speculation on my part, but I think it’s founded on sound lending experience/principles. For all I know you own a bank that floors ATV or something and I’m way out of my depth. lol.

if the steering is stiff, the cable needs to be replaced. The direct drive on the response does make this much easier. Unscrew from the rudder side, unscrew the 4 bolts on the rack and pinion side that is attached to the steering wheel and it will pull out. https://www.themalibucrew.com/index.php?/forums/topic/56100-steering-cable-change-lxi/

Looks like a very clean install. Nicely done. I think if I did it those 5/8” holes would have ended up more like 7/8” because my hands would be shaking so much from being nervous about drilling through the transom. Looking forward to the water pics.