31 minutes ago, cowwboy said:

That seems a little steep. But I know labor can add up real quick.
Sounds like you are fairly technically capable. Removing the engine isn't very hard just kind of a nuisance removing the bulk of the interior to get to it. 
Any reason you don't want to tackle it yourself?

You say crankcase, as in oil pan gasket or is it a front / rear main seal?
The front main seal would be fairly easy in boat.

Rear main would be a little harder removing the trans and v-drive but still do-able in boat. 

I believe it's the front main/crankshaft seal or timing cover. I was told the oil pan gasket lays down in the groove in the bottom of the front cover so the engine needs to come out. Someone mentioned a speedy sleeve might be worth a try. 

Thanks Dalt!  It was cool browsing through mine last night.  I geek out over little things like this. It also made me realize my boat was optioned very heavy for that year.  Transom & docking lights, and heated seat I think are the only things missing. 

14 minutes ago, Nick55 said:

I’d be interested to see how a boat deal goes through M&T.  I think most would be relatively smooth (even if you had to do your own financing) because quite honestly, the bank doesn’t want these on their books for long. As far as territories and dealers not wanting to work on boats they didn’t sell, that’s crap….. if that was tried with a car, HD truck, airplane, it would have congress up in arms and pressuring their lobbying interests for change.  I know it’s a free market, but a savvy shop should realize that it’s still a ‘Bu, made by ‘Bu and they have that same logo on the front of their buildings.  Refusing warranty work as a dealer is a fast way to lose your franchise as an automotive OEM, I’d assume it’s the same with marine.  

Most car dealers want your service more than the sell of the car.  They make more money on service than sales.  Can't imagine a boat would be any different.

Everyone on this list has received and paid for the brochures. Thanks to all of you for easy communications. I have about half of them left if anyone else is wanting one speak up now. I have 1 more to send out so if I get any more requests, I'll get them all sent at the same time.

Thanks for the input.  The photos of removing the shaft are helpful.  If I pull the shaft I will replace the cutlass bearing and install a dripless shaft seal. The strut appears to be straight.  I have watched several videos on aligning the coupling and it looks tedious.  The access is poor to the coupling.  It's in just the wrong place between the rear seat and the engine compartment. I'll post photos of the set up and progress.