Jump to content

Welcome to TheMalibuCrew!

As a guest, you are welcome to poke around and view the majority of the content that we have to offer, but in order to post, search, contact members, and get full use out of the website you will need to Register for an Account. It's free and it's easy, so don't hesitate to join the TheMalibuCrew Family today!

  • Recent Posts

    • Everyone on this list has received and paid for the brochures. Thanks to all of you for easy communications. I have about half of them left if anyone else is wanting one speak up now. I have 1 more to send out so if I get any more requests, I'll get them all sent at the same time.

    • Thanks for the input.  The photos of removing the shaft are helpful.  If I pull the shaft I will replace the cutlass bearing and install a dripless shaft seal. The strut appears to be straight.  I have watched several videos on aligning the coupling and it looks tedious.  The access is poor to the coupling.  It's in just the wrong place between the rear seat and the engine compartment. I'll post photos of the set up and progress. 

    • I’d be interested to see how a boat deal goes through M&T.  I think most would be relatively smooth (even if you had to do your own financing) because quite honestly, the bank doesn’t want these on their books for long. As far as territories and dealers not wanting to work on boats they didn’t sell, that’s crap….. if that was tried with a car, HD truck, airplane, it would have congress up in arms and pressuring their lobbying interests for change.  I know it’s a free market, but a savvy shop should realize that it’s still a ‘Bu, made by ‘Bu and they have that same logo on the front of their buildings.  Refusing warranty work as a dealer is a fast way to lose your franchise as an automotive OEM, I’d assume it’s the same with marine.  

    • That seems a little steep. But I know labor can add up real quick.
      Sounds like you are fairly technically capable. Removing the engine isn't very hard just kind of a nuisance removing the bulk of the interior to get to it. 
      Any reason you don't want to tackle it yourself?

      You say crankcase, as in oil pan gasket or is it a front / rear main seal?
      The front main seal would be fairly easy in boat.

      Rear main would be a little harder removing the trans and v-drive but still do-able in boat. 

    • Hello!  

      I've been a lurker on this site for about a year now but now it's time for my first post.  

      Last summer we bought our first boat, a 2000 wakesetter with 500 hours.  Since then I've replaced the alternator, starter and a few other minor items. Now after it was de-winterized it appears that it has an oil leak from the crankcase.  The marina mechanic is quoting me $3700 parts/labor to pull the engine and replace all the seals (crankcase, rear main, oil pan).  Is this a reasonable cost?  

      I'm debating if it's worth putting about 5k (needs steering cable and rear platform redone) into a 25 year old boat or if I should just sell it "as-is" and try to get a newer model?  

      Any thoughts/feedback is greatly appreciated. 

  • Who's Online   42 Members, 0 Anonymous, 198 Guests (See full list)

    • Kojak
    • Tfitch03
    • dalt1
    • GR8TOW
    • MikeMohr
    • UWSkier
    • Slayer
    • Stevo
    • JpCrOOked
    • JWat
    • dshack
    • RebesMalibu
    • Nick55
    • oldjeep
    • Ramdni
    • skijcsports
    • amartin
    • Cole2001
    • T-Roc
    • SouthsideBoarder
    • ahopkins22LSV
    • Hemmy
    • Justinsloan
    • MarkN
    • Five Cent Worth
    • Jhucke
    • JP98
    • kcpilotpat
    • MidwestVTX
    • Chattwake
    • MJR
    • DAI
    • teamerickson
    • cmars50070
    • Ronnie
    • Joshuntnd
    • MLA
    • wildcats86
    • ztarum
    • cowwboy
    • PrestigeLakeWide
    • timkuharski

  • Member Statistics

    42,266
    Total Members
    8,865
    Most Online
    JP98
    Newest Member
    JP98
    Joined
×
×
  • Create New...