On 4/18/2024 at 11:17 PM, athingisathing said:

So I found out allllllll about those connectors  today once I can figure out how to post images I can help everyone understand the last post lol!!!

basicly b is high thermal and balck

There is gray green and others...

p and s are male and female metal conector type.

dto6 is the connector housing type...

I will also put up the final final design.... but this should let me keep the oem warenty.  So I can plug it all back in if things need fixing.

The "B" key that @Brandonloos21 referred to is the position of a tab on the housing.  Only "B" keyed plugs mate with "B" keyed receptacles.  It is very common for connectors to have a variety of key positions so that one family of connectors will work in a harness with many connectors.  The different key positions keep someone from mating the wrong two connectors in the harness.

Some manufacturers use housing color to help you to quickly find the correct connector to mate.  Deutsch allows you to order non-standard colors, so "B" key may mean black to you, but it means "B" key to me.  It would not be common to find a green "B" connector, but you can order them.

Ok thank you very much

1 hour ago, uk_exile said:

@Brendonwitmer it's becoming a common issue as they age. Lots of info online. Not Malibu only. Other towboats have Medallions too.

If all gauges are not going it's likely earth or Medallion problem.  Try earths and resoldering MDC or MMDC first.

If that fails to solve it the easy fix is the TRD kit. It's a plug and play solution that deletes the Medallion computer and gives you new analogue gauges and a wiring harness adaptor.

If your competent electrician you can save some $ by fitting other brand analogue gauges.

I opted for TRD when my MMDC failed. Cost less than getting replacement Medallion, gave me nice new gauges (better then the OEM gauges) and no chance of future Medallion computer fail. Sold the old gauges to recover some of the TRD cost. 

Before TRD https://drive.google.com/file/d/1fvhX87CeTrjSDtOQS0bVawsQYBUeJYwu/view?usp=sharing

After TRD https://drive.google.com/file/d/1X8nEqv_Eildlj4zfBdSiRZmQBqrGKoK9/view?usp=sharing 

 

 

 

Ok thanks for all the info

Here she is!

https://ibb.co/5TPXTgk

Just checked the supercharged LT4 compression test specs since I was curious. For that engine it is a minimum of 100psi and a 70% difference.

GM certified technician here. If you are curious, here is a quick snippet from the service manual for performing a compression test on either a 5.3 or 6.2 direct injected engine. Just using this as an example, most GM engines are the same although some specs may be slightly different for supercharged engines or something like that. Use this as a good rule of thumb. In my personal opinion those numbers look perfectly fine and raise no concerns in my mind.

"Compare the compression readings from the tested cylinders.

- The lowest reading should not be less than 80 percent of the highest reading.
- No cylinder reading should be less than 862 kPa (125 PSI)."