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@psuchaz Hello - I am interested in how you like the 2013 MXZ. I am looking at 2013 MXZ here in the midwest. It is a low hour boat with 410 hp LS3 engine as well. I know 2013 was the first year for surf gate, and I have read that for the 2013 24 MXZ Malibu provided some additional modifications - but anything I found on that topic was sketchy....the comments were like "spraygate" instead of "surfgate." Yet - when I view videos and reviews of 2013 MXZ's - they look sweet and the surfing looks amazing.
So I just want to get your feedback and maybe any pics that you have of the surfing/ surf wave and what you do to dial in the wave.
I currently have a 21 foot VLX and I know that depending on conditions amount of fuel in the tank, people on board, etc. that the wave is better sometimes than others - and if I go with just one other person (a driver only) - then I need to fill a fat sack or 2 for the bow. I have plug n play 750s in the back and without a couple hundred pounds of people forward in the boat - there isn't enough push from the wave - except for a very small pocket. Couple fat sacks in bow or friends just sitting opposite of driver and it is a great wave. I would like to upgrade for some more room and thinking the 24 MXZ being bigger would always throw a big wave. Would love to know how your experience has been since you took ownership in Aug. Also - I share the same concern about LCD screens and no manual back up - and I have that in my 2014 VLX today (and it is a worry).
And rely on your passengers /crew to “walk the boat” into position on the lift.
+1 on all the previous posts about clicking in and out of forward/ neutral. Make small incremental adjustments
On 10/4/2019 at 12:25 PM, goingboating said:
@gordon20mxz Did you ever receive an answer from your malibu dealer? I am asking because I recently purchased a 2014 VLX (had 150 hours when purchased) and we put on about 30 more hours and started to receive the Max Current Draw Error and the surf gate fin for the right side (surfer on left side) was sticking out and would not retract. I have not taken anything apart to diagnose but I called Lenco and they told me to order PART NUMBER 15060-001 based on me telling him that my actuator was inscribed 8T HH1 on the actuator just below the Lenco Sticker. He seemed perplexed that my actuator had that inscribed on it - there is a decoder to indicate OEM and Year Month manufactured......anyway PART NUMBER 15060-001 was what I ordered and I am going to install tonight and try out tomorrow after the 3M 4200 cures. I am curious if it is as simple as that or if I need to get a sw upgrade or something that requires a trip to the dealer and big $$$. Any experience on your end? Did you attempt to upgrade?
I replaced the actuator on my 2014 Wakesetter VLX - it was an easy task after I got the right part (the right Lenco Actuator). For a 2014 Boat, there are discussion threads on Malibu Crew that correctly indicated that the fast actuator is required and here is a Lenco Actuator that will work: 4 1/4 in. Stroke Actuator 12 Volt SKU: LM-15129-001
replacing is easy, you need a couple open-ended, half-inch wrenches, a 7/16 wrench, phillips screwdriver, 3M 4200 sealer - BUT before I share more on replacing, I will share my learning because I did get the old, slow actuator by mistake (slow actuator 2013 malibu surfgate LEN15059-001 - Lenco 102 Series Standard Actuator - 12v - 4-1/4 in. Stroke). I installed this incorrect part. Then from the LCD control panel, I used the Service Surf Gate on the menu to extend both gates. The motors run for a very short time. Then I looked at the gates and the slow gate moved out a bit was not extended beyond the hull of the boat. The other actuator (original) had extended out beyond the hull like it is supposed to extend. So it seems the control box sends power for a pre-determined amount of time based on the speed of the actuator (the wrong actuator had more to extend but the control box just stopped it and the same time it stopped the other side - and I did not find any menu items to calibrate it differently). So I would expect the opposite if you put the faster actuator on an older boat - the control box would send power for too long - the actuator would reach max extension and the motor would still run longer - probably not good for motor. Maybe there is upside where the surfgate extends out a bit further - but it may not be able to take the additional force. So I think my findings support that you would need to replace the control box with the 2014 (or newer ) control box.
Back to the replacement - you need to remove a lot of extra stuff in order to have clearance to remove the bolt on the extending end of the actuator. I removed six screws that hold the chrome surfgate plate on the outside in order to remove two bracket bolts. Then I could remove the bolt through the actuator. Removing the hull end of the actuator was easy.
I was removing the right or starboard actuator (for surfing on left or port side). The cord comes in through the transom and travels behind motor to just port of the motor where there is a large group of wires that are tie-wrapped together. The cord on the actuator has a male-end and the female end was in that pack of wires and was labeled right surfgate so that was nice. Just unplug and I cut the cord on the old actuator. I did not need to you can remove the gray and orange deutsch connector plug and the cord would have pulled through transom intact. I fed the new 6' cord into the boat and fed along the back, used a couple tie wraps to secure and added the deutsch connector and then plugged in. Installed actuator. Then tested with the service surfgate on the menu. The surfgate fin extended the same on both sides. I was good to go.
My old actuator was filled with water. I could hear it sloshing around in there...sounded about half to 3/4 full of water. I inquired with Lenco about getting it refurbished since it is a pretty elaborate piece of hardware to just throw out. Lenco replied that in 2014 the warranty was only 3 years. The new one has a 5 year warranty. So they did not really answer my question if they would refurbish - seems like a new motor, wiring and seals would make it good as new - and the external parts could be re-used.
Anyway - just replacing a bad actuator because you are getting the Max Current Draw Error is not a big deal and you do yourself. Upgrading to from the slower to faster actuator probably does require replacing the control box - but still probably best to get an answer from Malibu.
Reverse is your friend in slow moving situations. Weather pulling into our lift, gas dock or up to another boat, I always enter at about a 30 degree angle with he starboard side against whatever side I want to pull up to. if you enter at this angle and about 10 feet from your finish spot just put it into reverse, just engage reverse, no more throttle than that, the boat will slow and the drivers side rear will slowly pull around the align with the slip or dock edge. The idea is to stay in neutral a little as possible if you have wind or current as you don't have any control if you are in neutral. Some prefer quick heavy reverse throttle movements, I personally prefer the barely in gear throttle movements as I find it more controllable and far more comfortable for others on the boat.
16 hours ago, Whitecap said:
Repeat as needed: neutral, wheel correction, forward tap. Neutral, correction, forward tap. Repeat as necessary.
That is a good way to sum it up.
Also, always approach upwind or upcurrent. If you approach into the wind you can use its resistance to turn against, and you will have better control. If you are approaching with the wind behind you it will render the rudder ineffective until you exceed the speed of the wind, which is likely way faster than you want to go into the lift.
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