Budget build pieces have arrived!

[EchelonMike]

All:

First off, thanks to all the great advice available on this stereo forum - you guys have been patient answering my questions from time to time as I have worked to improve the audio in my '05 VLX.

So here is what I ended up with:

Head Unit: Sony MEX-M70BT - gives me both bluetooth and CD options, 6 channel pre-amp outputs @ 5V, etc.

In-boat speakers: Rockford Fosgate P16 6.5" (6 total)

Tower speakers: Same as above in factory cans

Amp: Rockford Fosgate Prime R400-4D - 75w x 4 - will power the 4 pairs of 6.5" speakers

Sub: Rockford Fosgate P300-10 - 10" sealed enclosure with built in 300w Amp

Wiring: I am going to re-run every speaker, RCA and power feed; the sub came with an 8G wiring kit

Assuming my measurements are accurate, the sub will mount very nicely behind the helm kick panel. Per earlier recommendations, I am going to cut out the kick panel and attach to the sub so the kick panel will move out a few inches from the factory location, but still plenty of room for feet. The boat is trailered and stored indoors year-round, so even though the sub and amp are not "Marine", I don't anticipate a problem. Time will tell! I am going to lift it slightly off the floor with some small rotocast blocks to keep it off the carpet in case I do get water under the helm somehow. The amp will be fine under the rear facing seat.

The only question I have is in regards to the sub's negative connection. The sub says to make sure the negative is no longer than 30" and ground to the chassis. I was going to run two 8G feeds directly back to the batteries. Is that the recommended approach, or can I ground the sub's amp under the dash somewhere? I plan to run the 4 channel amp direct to the battery because it is so close to them in that compartment.

I'll post pics as soon as I get a bit of warm weather.

Thanks again for the advice!

-- Mike

[95echelon]

All:

First off, thanks to all the great advice available on this stereo forum - you guys have been patient answering my questions from time to time as I have worked to improve the audio in my '05 VLX.

So here is what I ended up with:

Head Unit: Sony MEX-M70BT - gives me both bluetooth and CD options, 6 channel pre-amp outputs @ 5V, etc.

In-boat speakers: Rockford Fosgate P16 6.5" (6 total)

Tower speakers: Same as above in factory cans

Amp: Rockford Fosgate Prime R400-4D - 75w x 4 - will power the 4 pairs of 6.5" speakers

Sub: Rockford Fosgate P300-10 - 10" sealed enclosure with built in 300w Amp

Wiring: I am going to re-run every speaker, RCA and power feed; the sub came with an 8G wiring kit

Assuming my measurements are accurate, the sub will mount very nicely behind the helm kick panel. Per earlier recommendations, I am going to cut out the kick panel and attach to the sub so the kick panel will move out a few inches from the factory location, but still plenty of room for feet. The boat is trailered and stored indoors year-round, so even though the sub and amp are not "Marine", I don't anticipate a problem. Time will tell! I am going to lift it slightly off the floor with some small rotocast blocks to keep it off the carpet in case I do get water under the helm somehow. The amp will be fine under the rear facing seat.

The only question I have is in regards to the sub's negative connection. The sub says to make sure the negative is no longer than 30" and ground to the chassis. I was going to run two 8G feeds directly back to the batteries. Is that the recommended approach, or can I ground the sub's amp under the dash somewhere? I plan to run the 4 channel amp direct to the battery because it is so close to them in that compartment.

I'll post pics as soon as I get a bit of warm weather.

Thanks again for the advice!

-- Mike

On your re-running the speaker wires: A high end stereo company hooked up 5 figures of audio equipment and then tested a coat hanger against 1,000 dollar speaker wires and not a single audiophile could tell the difference blind. Save your back! I checked on my boat and the wires were more than sufficient for your speaker and amp setup.

I have a similar setup in the boat I just bought and it's nice but not fantastic. my sub is under the passenger compartment and I would definitely go helm, that is the right way to go.

I believe that you should ground to the battery in a boat but I am not an expert, make sure that connection is fused.

What are you doing to control the volume mix between sub, interior, and tower? Kicker or wetsounds make good mixers for that.

[EchelonMike]

On your re-running the speaker wires: A high end stereo company hooked up 5 figures of audio equipment and then tested a coat hanger against 1,000 dollar speaker wires and not a single audiophile could tell the difference blind. Save your back! I checked on my boat and the wires were more than sufficient for your speaker and amp setup.

I have a similar setup in the boat I just bought and it's nice but not fantastic. my sub is under the passenger compartment and I would definitely go helm, that is the right way to go.

I believe that you should ground to the battery in a boat but I am not an expert, make sure that connection is fused.

What are you doing to control the volume mix between sub, interior, and tower? Kicker or wetsounds make good mixers for that.

The amp has a separate gain adjustment for front/rear, so I was going to put the dash and tower on "front" and bow and the speakers below the coming pad on "rear". The tower and dash seem to historically be the "brightest" since they are directly at ear levels so I hope to be able to adjust the gain so that as I increase head unit volume it makes everyone in the boat happy. If not I can add a WS-420 or similar to control each zone directly. The sub has a remote gain control so I can adjust directly from the helm as needed.

Thanks for the input on speaker wire - I will start with trying to read/interpret the factory wiring and if I can do that then I agree, I will leave it as-is, if it looks to be in good condition.

[95echelon]

The amp has a separate gain adjustment for front/rear, so I was going to put the dash and tower on "front" and bow and the speakers below the coming pad on "rear". The tower and dash seem to historically be the "brightest" since they are directly at ear levels so I hope to be able to adjust the gain so that as I increase head unit volume it makes everyone in the boat happy. If not I can add a WS-420 or similar to control each zone directly. The sub has a remote gain control so I can adjust directly from the helm as needed.

Thanks for the input on speaker wire - I will start with trying to read/interpret the factory wiring and if I can do that then I agree, I will leave it as-is, if it looks to be in good condition.

Just get a multimeter with a continuity beep, i don't know if harbor freights is any good but if it beeps it keeps and they often come free. Add an extra 10 foot length of wire and you can ensure you are chasing the right wires. If you need a "toner" they are 50-150 bucks. You can borrow mine when I come to Ohio in March if you cant find a wire. Toner's will help to figure out where random wires go.