2010 VLX - Wakemakers Premium Complete Reversible Pump Ballast System Installation

[Sparky450]

One other thing that I am thinking about doing now is going ahead and splitting my rear pumps to a quick connect located in the side cup holder area so if I want to fill a bag in the cabin all I have to do is turn a bosworth valve (yet to determine where to locate it but probably just under the rear seats next to the pump). I am think that if I can find a female 1" to 1" thread barb, I could just place a larger washer under the panel and once the quick connect and female end are screwed together that will hold it tight and be pretty stealthy.

I put a fitting like this in the gunnel right behind the drivers seat and in front of the passengers seat. I do not have a pic right now. I will put one up later today or tomorrow. It works great. especially for water fights!!! The hose is within reach and runs forever. That pump will spray at least 30' continuous. Super Soakers don't have a chance.LOL :rofl:

[jwl019]

Decided I am going to mount my switches forward of the safety switch right before the panel starts curving a bit.

Here is the mark and the finished product.

[jwl019]

Now here is a pic of the step between the finished product. My air compressor decided it didn't want to work tonight so my small grinder/cutter was not an option. I decided to improvise. I used the same hole saw that I used for the thru hulls and drilled in 2 opposite corners, then used the saw in a leatherman to saw out the remaining portions. Then I had to vacuum up the mess I made. It actually came out pretty good surprisingly.

Also a pic of the switch holder, switch, and wire harness.

[jwl019]

Pic of the switches assembled, I am going to try not to seat them all the way in for now so in case I need to flip the switches over once I turn the pumps on to see which way they need to be oriented for fill/drain on the switch face plate. With them like they are now, there is just enugh room for me to pull them out and flip them if need be.

[jwl019]

Thankfully my high-tech system of organization along the way is paying off. While I was running the wires, I was labeling them, now that I have 6 sets of wires coming into one spot, it would have gotten difficult fast.

[jwl019]

Started trimming some of the excess 12 awg of the wires that run from the pumps to the switches by cutting and splicing them back together.

Also, here is a pic showing how thick the gel coat actually is where I drilled my holes. From left to right: bow vent thru hull, x2 thru hulls on the bottom, x2 vent thru hulls at the rear. Instead of drilling one more hole in the bottom, I used the T handle drain plug thru hull under the motor since I never use that drain plug anyway.

[jwl019]

One other thing that I am thinking about doing now is going ahead and splitting my rear pumps to a quick connect located in the side cup holder area so if I want to fill a bag in the cabin all I have to do is turn a bosworth valve (yet to determine where to locate it but probably just under the rear seats next to the pump). I am thinking that if I can find a female 1" to 1" thread barb, I could just place a larger washer under the panel and once the quick connect and female end are screwed together that will hold it tight and be pretty stealthy.

I placed the order yesterday afternoon after talking with Spencer on the best way to do this. I ended up ordering the Straight Line quick release connection with the 1" NPT thread to go in that panel instead of the Fly High quick release with hose barb. We both agreed that since the Straight Line has a wide flange (and it's black instead of grey), that would go best there and just place a large washer and a 1" female to 1" hose barb underneath to connect the line to. I hope to have all my wiring done by the time the parts get here so that will be the last items for me to do in my ballast install.

[jwl019]

Finished up the wiring tonight, all that is left is to install the batteries back in place.

Debating on pouring some RV antifreeze in the tank lines and the hitting the switch to drain to see if the switches are correct, don't really want to use water since it is winter time right now. The other option is just wait until spring and try it out on my first time out.

Next week the stuff to run hoses into the cabin will arrive so I will be able to finish this project up shortly after.

[jwl019]

Installed the batteries and finished zip tying the wires up some more to clean it up a bit.

I poured RV antifreeze in the fill/drain hoses and tried each individual pump out so I could check if my switches were correct. I had to flip 2 of the 3 switches over so they would be correct. As far s the base ballast system install, it is complete and functional. I am waiting on some more 1" hose, y valves, and Straight Line quick connects to finish up the rest of what I want to do.

I was a little surprised that I had 2 of the pumps actually drain most of the antifreeze out when I was pouring it in. I could hear it running into the bucket I had placed under the hull. I wasn't expecting any passive draining from the reversible pumps. It lessened after I filled the hose and hurried up to turn the pump on empty. I guess I will see on my first outing in the Spring to see if I am going to have a problem with it or not.

You can definitely tell when a pump is on, it is pretty loud under my carport without the engine running.

[Pnwrider]

Nice write up and detail! It would probably help to add in the answers to the questions you asked in other threads. Mostly for my future reference!

[jwl019]

Nice write up and detail! It would probably help to add in the answers to the questions you asked in other threads. Mostly for my future reference!

I went back to post #1 and added all the threads that I used as reference for my install and ones were I asked a few questions.

[minnmarker]

Pic of the switches assembled, I am going to try not to seat them all the way in for now so in case I need to flip the switches over once I turn the pumps on to see which way they need to be oriented for fill/drain on the switch face plate. With them like they are now, there is just enugh room for me to pull them out and flip them if need be.

Or, if you want to finish up the controls you can plug the switches in now and simply switch the wires at the pump to reverse flow if needed.

[jwl019]

I have gathered everything to create a bulkhead style install in the cupholder area for a quick connect fitting, no I am just waiting on the bosworth y valves to come in on Wednesday. I plan on having at least one 8' hose to use to fill a sac on either side when surfing if needed.

The 1" 90's and 1" female to hose barb fittings came from Lowe's along with the rubber washers that I cut out the center sections on. The big washers came from a Construction hardware store since Lowe's and regular hardware stores don't carry anything with a 1-1/4" and 1-3/4" inside diameter hole. I am not exactly sure which pieces I will go with yet since I am waiting on some more 1" hose to arrive as well to see how everyting lays out.

[Ndawg12]

I question the passive flow as well. Although I've never heard anyone complain about it, I was surprised how easy it was to blow air through either side of the pump. Anyone care to explain how passive filling or draining doesn't occur with these pumps mounted below the waterline or certainly below the top of the bag? Maybe my new pumps have an issue...?

[jwl019]

Or, if you want to finish up the controls you can plug the switches in now and simply switch the wires at the pump to reverse flow if needed.

With the complete kit, the wires come with these quick connections already attached in this pic, all you have to do is plug the two together. Can you just pull the wires out of these connections and reuse or would you cut the wires and splice them? I got mine figured out by using RV antifreeze in the line feeding the sac and then hitting the switch to empty and watching it either drain or shoot out of the hose like it was trying to fill, but if it is possible, I bet it will make someone else's install a lot easier.

I wondered about reversing the wires and if it would work, but with my limited electrical skills, I always assume red is positive and black is negative so there is only one way to wire something. I have actually had to insert wires in a connection like this before, possibly on my wedge actuators this past summer and they seem to go in and lock in pretty good somehow.

[jwl019]

Parts came in and I installed the first quick connect in the starboard side cupholder area. I had to use an actual plug-in drill and drill from underneath since my battery operated drill was to tall no matter how I tried.

[jwl019]

I am thinking about just attaching the y-valve here and just lifting the seat to switch it. If I do that, I will just have to remember to fill the cabin sacs last and drain first since I might have a sac on top of the seat that I would have access thru.

[jwl019]

Got the y-valves installed and hoses hooked up, the only thing left is to make a 5-8' hose for filling bags in the cabin. After that, it's time to clean the boat back up and move her to storage until Spring when I can try it out unless I go ahead and order a WSI Boost Box to install next week.

[BearCreekBum]

Great looking job.

Go ahead and order the Boost Box. You know it is only a matter of time.

[jwl019]

Great looking job.

Go ahead and order the Boost Box. You know it is only a matter of time.

I think I am Monday probably, forgot to call Earmark today and ask a few questions about it, also debating on upgrading my sub amp at the same time. My ballast system is getting expensive, lol!

[aggie08]

I question the passive flow as well. Although I've never heard anyone complain about it, I was surprised how easy it was to blow air through either side of the pump. Anyone care to explain how passive filling or draining doesn't occur with these pumps mounted below the waterline or certainly below the top of the bag? Maybe my new pumps have an issue...?

jwl, I'm also curious is you experience any passive draining/filling when you put the boat in the water. I've had my impeller pumps for 2 years with no issues, but at the tail end of a Lake Powell trip in June, all 4 bags were definitely passively filling or draining depending on the position and trim of the boat. Haven't been able to repeat it on any day trips since, so I'm perplexed.

[jwl019]

jwl, I'm also curious is you experience any passive draining/filling when you put the boat in the water. I've had my impeller pumps for 2 years with no issues, but at the tail end of a Lake Powell trip in June, all 4 bags were definitely passively filling or draining depending on the position and trim of the boat. Haven't been able to repeat it on any day trips since, so I'm perplexed.

I will definitely be monitoring it on my first outing to see what happens, I haven't had a chance to take it out yet.

[jwl019]

After a lot of use, I can definitely say the bags experience passive draining while we are out.  I have had to top off the bags a couple times each outing.  I will probably change the impellers this year to see if it helps any.

[Kojak]

6 minutes ago, jwl019 said:

After a lot of use, I can definitely say the bags experience passive draining while we are out.  I have had to top off the bags a couple times each outing.  I will probably change the impellers this year to see if it helps any.

I added these between the thru hull and the pump.  Stops the passive draining. You just have to remember to turn them off/on.

http://www.wakemakers.com/pvc-ball-valve.html

I have a couple extra. They're yours if you want them.

Edited May 3, 2018 by Kojak

[MLA]

Hopefully @jwl019 already has ball valves on the inlets, so additional would not be needed. 

Why not just isolate the path of the passive draining first, before part swapping. Theres 2 paths, the inlet/drain through the impeller pump. This is unlikely, but easy to figure out. Next is the vent. Again, easy to figure out by looking at the vent to see if water is coming out.