Finally going reversible

[shawndoggy]

I know that it's a PITA to radius the hoses, and I'm no engineer, but doesn't adding the 90s on either side of the pump reduce flow? I'm sure I've read here that you get more flow going with a hose right to the pump? Definitely adds three hose clamps where you could have one.

[Ndawg12]

Yeah, probably, I wanted to use the 1" hose around the outside of the pump inlet rather than reducing down to 1/2" or whatever it is. This year I'm not trying to win any ballast filling races and I have all this stuff laying around.

It's amazing how much more room there is after I removed those stupid hard tanks, those things are so big and bulky for the measly ~250lbs they hold. I definitely think I'll be able to maximize my 1100's with room left over for some lead

[jwl019]

No problem draining out to bottom for me and I have 3 pumps running and you can clearly hear when one is done. I thought about draining out the side but if I had to do it agin I would do it the same way. When people said the pumps where loud I did not believe them. Now if you planning on draing while under way a lot I could see the Benifit as it gets a little harder to hear the pumps.

I have had no distance problems either. My front bag is filled by a thru hull that is up near the front drain plug hose runs to pump in the back then on up to the bow.

I used a blue seas distro box to power and fuse all my wiring.

Do you have any pics of where you mounted the distro box? Did you run an inline fuse in front of it and if so which one and size? What size power wire did you run to the distro. box?

[MLA]

You absolutely need circuit protection on the fuse box main feed at its source. Rather then emulate others cable and fuse size, calculate your potential current draw and cable length, and determine what your application requires.

[jwl019]

You absolutely need circuit protection on the fuse box main feed at its source. Rather then emulate others cable and fuse size, calculate your potential current draw and cable length, and determine what your application requires.

I am slowly but surely becoming an electrical engineer with my little project no doubt. Electricity is not my strong point and no understanding of, but I have great land nav skills, hit 300m targets with open sights all day long (give me glass and it stretches out further), clear mine fields and other areas, and can design a roof or floor truss for you. I do own a voltmeter and made the store tell me where to turn the knob and marked it so I can check voltage at the battery!

All that said, by using this chart and the pump that says 13v, I am good with 8 awg for 15' since it's non-critical (imo -ballast isn't critical), but that leaves me no headroom to add anything else to the distro block since x3 pumps at 13a is 39a and wire is rated for 40 (if like my job there is a huge safety factor involved so I truly have more room than just 1 amp). So since I have 15' I can do something similar to this post and shorten my run, tie in to the main fuse panel which already is on a 80 amp breaker straight off the perko in the observers seat area. Doing this, I can cut my wire into 2 or 3 pieces and double it up to get a stronger wire, so just guessing x2 8 gauge wires would be x1 4 awg which gives me more capacity to add something later.

http://assets.bluesea.com/files/resources/newsletter/images/DC_wire_selection_chartlg.jpg

Just for laughs, I failed the test on wiring a simple circuit in one of my classes. iirc, it was a light switch to light/fan, to outlet in wall. I'll hire my house to get wired!

[BearCreekBum]

I don't know the specifics about DC wiring but in the AC world code does not allow you to parallel conductors smaller than 1/0. Since it is only 15' I would go ahead a get a #4 conductor. It will probably make the installation easier than trying to land two conductors on a terminal only designed for one.

Just my opinion based on years of experience of taking the less expensive or easier way first and having to go back later and do it correctly.

I'm here for moral support.

[MLA]

I am slowly but surely becoming an electrical engineer with my little project no doubt. Electricity is not my strong point and no understanding of, but I have great land nav skills, hit 300m targets with open sights all day long (give me glass and it stretches out further), clear mine fields and other areas, and can design a roof or floor truss for you. I do own a voltmeter and made the store tell me where to turn the knob and marked it so I can check voltage at the battery!

All that said, by using this chart and the pump that says 13v, I am good with 8 awg for 15' since it's non-critical (imo -ballast isn't critical), but that leaves me no headroom to add anything else to the distro block since x3 pumps at 13a is 39a and wire is rated for 40 (if like my job there is a huge safety factor involved so I truly have more room than just 1 amp). So since I have 15' I can do something similar to this post and shorten my run, tie in to the main fuse panel which already is on a 80 amp breaker straight off the perko in the observers seat area. Doing this, I can cut my wire into 2 or 3 pieces and double it up to get a stronger wire, so just guessing x2 8 gauge wires would be x1 4 awg which gives me more capacity to add something later.

http://assets.bluesea.com/files/resources/newsletter/images/DC_wire_selection_chartlg.jpg

Just for laughs, I failed the test on wiring a simple circuit in one of my classes. iirc, it was a light switch to light/fan, to outlet in wall. I'll hire my house to get wired!

For the pump current draw, I would use 25A for my calculations, then add a few more amps for future things like another pump, LEDs and a fog machine. Also, if its a 15ft run from the battery to where the fuse block is to be placed, the cable length used for the calculations, is going to be 2X that. For the main circuit protection, you want have a number that carries the potential load, but does not exceed the capacity of the cable.

[jwl019]

Thanks, had to read up on the 2x length since I did not understand that. Guess I am wayyyy off on my calculations then. Think I am about to simplify my runs and just run everything straight to the perko switch like I think the kit was intended for. Making a single run to the battery would have been cleaner probably but a little out of my league. I don't even see 4 or 8 gauge on my wire stripper pliers so not even sure how to crimp them properly.

[Chrisjjbrown]

Do you have any pics of where you mounted the distro box? Did you run an inline fuse in front of it and if so which one and size? What size power wire did you run to the distro. box?

4 awg wire from battery to box I believe. 100 amp in line fuse. In between. I mounted it in the observers compartment.

[jwl019]

4 awg wire from battery to box I believe. 100 amp in line fuse. In between. I mounted it in the observers compartment.

Thanks! Looking around today in the boat I was thinking if I mounted the box anywhere that the observers compartment would be the best and easiest accessible location especially if a fuse ever needed replaced.