Finally going reversible

[Brodie]

Thought about it but not sure I have anything freed up that size. I'm thinking about doing an external fuse block and bypassing the driver panel. Next question, is the wiring for aerator pumps adequate for these Johnsons?

No, the aerator wiring is not adequate. You will need to run 12 gauge for the Johnson pumps due to the much higher current draw of these pumps.

[windy1]

I installed a reversible for my bow ballast sac that I throw on top of the front cushions. The pump is just laying under the port bow cushion with a hose fed up by the cup holders with a quick release connector for the bag. The only place I could drill a intake hole was under the motor so when the pump comes on to start filling the water has to travel from under the motor to the pump sitting in the front of the boat. Never had a priming problem. It takes about 3 seconds for the water to hit the bag. All 1" except the through hole is 3/4". wired into the extra toggle switch on dash. Got everything from wakemakers including wiring.

Edited October 21, 2015 by windy1

[05hammerhead]

Ok, never thought I'd say this but TMC has talked me into doing something cheaper and easier. So is it really this simple?

This is what I did. I actually T'd my overflow into my existing overflow. Works pretty good.

If you drilled your own holes, why not make them 1" and go 1" the whole way?

Where are you putting the switches? That was the hardest part of my build was figuring out where to put them. I ended up just throwing them in the spotters compartment loose cause I couldnt figure out where to put them.

[05hammerhead]

http://i1279.photobucket.com/albums/y524/Tyson_DeLandsheer/ballast_zpsd4f15567.gif This is how i set mine up to use 2 thru hulls per bag.

How do they not just pump straight out the vent?

[MLA]

What size breaker should these Johnson pumps be on, I'm guessing 15 or 20...?

depend on where you get the pump, some sources provide the circuit protection and pre-wired switch.

[Levi900RR]

You guys draining back out the bottom of the boat, do you have to watch your bags every time you drain so you don't burn up your impeller? Or can you just listen to it?

[MLA]

Just curious, does it matter which side of the hose is longer (Intake-Pump or Pump-Sac)? Should the pump be closer to the intake? Or should they be evenly spaced?

If limited to 3/4" intake, why go with 1" hose?

I like to have the pump close to intake as feasible as its going to be the dry side as well as typically pulling up hill. But, mounting the pump in a convenient spot is also important.

[MLA]

You guys draining back out the bottom of the boat, do you have to watch your bags every time you drain so you don't burn up your impeller? Or can you just listen to it?

After a few cycles, you will get a feel for how long it takes, as well as there is a noticeable change in the sound of the pump once the sac is empty.

[MLA]

Thought about it but not sure I have anything freed up that size. I'm thinking about doing an external fuse block and bypassing the driver panel. Next question, is the wiring for aerator pumps adequate for these Johnsons?

no

[That Guy]

Ok, never thought I'd say this but TMC has talked me into doing something cheaper and easier. So is it really this simple?

Will this work with factory tanks installed as well? Considering doing this to speed up fill/drain times, any idea if the time savings would be significant?

[dealjb]

Ok, never thought I'd say this but TMC has talked me into doing something cheaper and easier. So is it really this simple?

Have both sides done this way on mine. Works well, no issues.

[MLA]

Will this work with factory tanks installed as well? Considering doing this to speed up fill/drain times, any idea if the time savings would be significant?

The issue with the hard tanks, could be the lack of an unused port to connect the pump to. Also, you do not want to check-valve the vent line of a tank. Adding another pump would basically double the flow rate, or in other words, cut the fill time in half.

Edited October 21, 2015 by MLA

[minnmarker]

Or you could use one 1.25" thru hull to feed 2 or 3 reversible pumps.

1.25 diameter = 1.23 sq. in. flow area

0.75 diameter = 0.44 sq. in. flow area

Fewer holes in the bottom of the boat.

Only issue is that you have to source the 1.25 hose and T fittings from somewhere other than Wake Makers or Bakes. They don't carry them. They do have the thru hull fittings and valves.

[Nitrousbird]

What size breaker should these Johnson pumps be on, I'm guessing 15 or 20...?

I have one of mine on a 10amp breaker with no issues. I just used what was open to utilize.

I am 1" feed, 3/4" vent. If I did mine over, I would do 1" all around. But you need to redo your plan and have it drain above water level. After having it both ways, draining above is WAY better. You can do drain/vent through the same thru-hull - it just takes a few extra check valves (and hose) to do it.

I promise going above the hull for draining is worth it. I wish I had did it from the start. Also, for you back bags, make sure to vent on the opposite side of the boat.

[CoMtnBu]

The benefit of 1" even with a 3/4 intake is the friction loss caused over the length of the hose run. The longer the hose run the more friction loss.

[Simo]

The benefit of 1" even with a 3/4 intake is the friction loss caused over the length of the hose run. The longer the hose run the more friction loss.

100% correct

[Ndawg12]

I have one of mine on a 10amp breaker with no issues. I just used what was open to utilize.

I am 1" feed, 3/4" vent. If I did mine over, I would do 1" all around. But you need to redo your plan and have it drain above water level. After having it both ways, draining above is WAY better. You can do drain/vent through the same thru-hull - it just takes a few extra check valves (and hose) to do it.

I promise going above the hull for draining is worth it. I wish I had did it from the start. Also, for you back bags, make sure to vent on the opposite side of the boat.

One of your old posts is why I originally thought about draining above. Hmmmm.....

Ok so my existing wiring isn't adequate but let me ask this, I'm removing the hard tanks, so I'll have the fill pump and the drain pump wiring to use, basically doubling the wire. So I could take both aerator fill pump wires and connect them to the Johnson pump red wire, and both aerator drain pump wires and connect them to the Johnson black wire....?

[shawndoggy]

Nate, I would not do that for a couple of reasons. First it's kinda ghetto. Second it is somewhat irreversible. Once you start hacking up factory wiring it's tough to undo. I guess this goes for removing the hard tank too. what's the point of that? If you ever want to sell the boat this might make it harder.

Spend the money, do it right. Genuinedealz has good prices on tinned duplex 12awg wire. It's easy to work with and pull through the boat.

http://www.genuinedealz.com/12-awg-gauge-2-conductor-marine-wire-duplex-flat

[TimbrSS]

I have mine draining out the side. It's nice for a quick reference... yup, it's draining, and a bunch of water is coming out with good pressure. But I can't rely on passengers to keep an eye on it to tell me when it stops. The places that my dong sack ports are located, makes the 3 pumps run out of water at different times. I still end up opening the hatch cover to keep an eye on things. (I need to get my bag fittings altered so they are all in the same place.) I have 6 pumps all set up to drain and vent over the side, all on 1" stuff. This needs a bunch of extra hoses that crowd the engine bay. I'd say the cost and complexity of side draining is not worth the few benefits. I used the clear hose from Wakemakers, and that is worth the extra cost over their black stuff.

[05hammerhead]

Also, for you back bags, make sure to vent on the opposite side of the boat.

Why would one have to do this?

[Murphy8166]

Ndawg - what size bags are you going to run?

I'd be very hesitant to let 1100's fill with out keeping an eye on them esp with reversible pumps.

We did not use vent's on ours...just watched them (and we were effective every single time even with the distraction of young kids on the boat.)

[shawndoggy]

Why would one have to do this?

You don't. With reversibles with check valves in the vent lines siphoning shouldn't be a concern.

Edited October 22, 2015 by shawndoggy

[MLA]

Why would one have to do this?

With tall ballast sacs, the height of the filled sac can be above the level of the vent thru-hull. This can allow the sac to passively drain out of the vent when full. Crossing the vent line to opposite side of the boat can prevent this IF you are ballast listed over for surfing. If you are weighted "evenly" as its called, you still may have some passive draining even with crossed lines. In this case, the right check valve can be the solution, if its a ballast system with existing thru-hull. If its a system thats being built from scratch, then using a thru-hull other then a straight one, usually solves this.

[Brodie]

You don't. With reversibles with check valves in the vent lines siphoning shouldn't be a concern.

Not true. I have check valves in all of my lines, and I was still getting siphoning on the surf side and my bow sac when surfing. I crossed the surf side line and it fixed the problem. I had to put in a ball valve on the bow sac vent line. One-way check valves by their nature don't help eliminate siphoning, as they still allow water flow out.

Edited October 22, 2015 by Brodie

[shawndoggy]

hmm interesting. I've only ever done it with through hulls that were mounted significantly forward of or above the bags, so that probably helps. Definitely had passive draining issues with aerators in my 06 vride.