Lubricating the steering cable??

[spinxt]

On all the winterizing threads I've seen, greasing the steering cable shows up at some point. How is this done? I've attempted to follow the cable in my RLX. It appears that right after the rack and pinion assembly unter the dash, the cable is sheathed in some type of housing. It drops down to the bilge and I don't see it pop back up until i lift the cover for the drive shaft, and it's sheathed there too.........

[SunriseH2OSkier]

Having just had to replace my steering cable, I can say with reasonable certainty there is no way to lube the cable itself. There are grease fittings for the rudder (from inside hull), and you could disconnect the rack from the steering hub and grease there, but you can't do anything for the cable.

[Sunset_Bob]

Same as he said, I just replaced my cable also. there's no where to grease the cable. You can grease the end or the rack, but not the inside of the cable itself.

If it's tight just replace it. You can get a cable from iboats.com, westwarine.com, or just about any other online marine parts house. Your old cable will have a part number on the black casing about 12"s from the crimped end.

Takes about a hour or so along with a 6th grade education to change it. It also helps to be a contortionist to fit under the dash.

[Trentster]

It's lubed from the back by the rudder itself. Turn your wheel all the way in the direction that the cable is all the way out. One way it will be all the way in, and the other way about 12" or so of the shinning cable will be sticking out. Use a spray lube on the shinng cable that is sticking out. Then work the wheel back and forth. That's the only place the cable is ever exposed and likely would ever bind up from corrosion, spurs, etc. FYI- That's also how you lube the shift cable and the throttle cable. Set the throttle so it's shinning cables are at maximum exposure and spary it back where it connects to the engine throttle body and tranny. Then work the throttle. Note: On 06 and newer boats there is no throttle cable- only a shift cable.

Trentster

[Sunset_Bob]

[quote name= Use a spray lube on the shinng cable that is sticking out. Then work the wheel back and forth. That's the only place the cable is ever exposed and likely would ever bind up from corrosion, spurs, etc.

Oh, that's not the only place it can bind up from corrosion. Mine practically froze solid internally. Once moisture finds it's way into the cable casing, it will be only a matter of time.

Last year when I hit a submerged log, I took on alot of water from the shaft box leaking. That water found it's way into my steering cable. A year later, I had to replace it.

Basically just grease you rudder box, wipe some lighty onto the end of the cable and forget it until time to replace.

[rushman]

[quote name= Use a spray lube on the shinng cable that is sticking out. Then work the wheel back and forth. That's the only place the cable is ever exposed and likely would ever bind up from corrosion, spurs, etc.

Oh, that's not the only place it can bind up from corrosion. Mine practically froze solid internally. Once moisture finds it's way into the cable casing, it will be only a matter of time.

Last year when I hit a submerged log, I took on alot of water from the shaft box leaking. That water found it's way into my steering cable. A year later, I had to replace it.

Basically just grease you rudder box, wipe some lighty onto the end of the cable and forget it until time to replace.

That brings a question for me. I went to lube my rudder box a week ago when winterizing the boat. This is the first time I have done it because I didn't even know they were there. Regardless, my fault, but I went to grease the two fittings and the top one took grease and the bottom one didn't. It's like the bottom one is seized or something and won't take grease. When I put pressure on it (when squeezing the grease gun) I can barely get it back off. It's a PITA to get to it too. Is there an easier way to reach it. I have no problem with putting in a new grease fitting, it's just going to be hard to do based on the location of it. Sure I could take out the gas tank, etc.,etc. but who wants to do that. Any suggestions or similar complaints?

[99response]

Don't bother, on alot of boats its a miracle if you can actually get to the fitting, if you ever have the gas tank out do it then. The cable is what will cause steering problems.

[Sunset_Bob]

That brings a question for me. I went to lube my rudder box a week ago when winterizing the boat. This is the first time I have done it because I didn't even know they were there. Regardless, my fault, but I went to grease the two fittings and the top one took grease and the bottom one didn't. It's like the bottom one is seized or something and won't take grease. When I put pressure on it (when squeezing the grease gun) I can barely get it back off. It's a PITA to get to it too. Is there an easier way to reach it. I have no problem with putting in a new grease fitting, it's just going to be hard to do based on the location of it. Sure I could take out the gas tank, etc.,etc. but who wants to do that. Any suggestions or similar complaints?

Yep. Heres what I have done too mine. Go to the local auto parts store like Napa or Orielly's. Get a couple of grease gun hoses about 12" long, and a couple of 1/8 pipe unions. Screw one end of the hose's into the rudder box where your zerk fittings are now and use the union's to attach your zerk fittings you took out the rudder box onto the other end of your hose's. Now you can wire tie the hoses together and just lay them in the bilge beside the mufflers. Next time you need to grease it you do it without having to reach back there under the fuel tank. They don't hurt anything just laying there. I didn't put a piece of rubber hose around the fittings so the metal wouldn't be rubbing the floor.

[uk_exile]

Hopefully someone can learn from this.

The steering on our 02 RLX was tight, almost needing two hands so I replaced the cable. What a right b@5t@rd of a job.

I took out drivers seat and foot well side panel to make somewhere to lie and to make things visible. Making sure I had the cable end retracted as far as possible, it was easy to disconnect front and rear and to tie on a rope. It was even easy to get it 95% of the way out but what a job to get the final section out of the floor. The small slot where it came out of is so jammed full of battery cables, throttle and gearbox cables, wiring looms and heater pipes theres barely any manuvering room. The slot is at least 75% full.

Trying to bring the solid rear section of the cable and fixing nut through all that was a nightmare added to by cable end needing to change angle from horizontal to near vertical. After 90mins of struggle I gave up and pushed it back out & cut off the big fixing nut. Tried again & another 30mins later eventually got it out. New cable went in fine as was able to push the pipes and cables aside ok and used the rope to pull it through. Steering is now possible with 1 finger so well worth the cable cost but what a frustrating job to do.

Looking back at this my advise to anyone considering doing a cable replacement is get someone else to do it !!

Or disconnect the rear end and hacksaw off the final two feet (the solid part and the nut) and tie / tape rope to the remaining part. I think doing that the replacement job could be completed in under 45mins, rather than the almost 3hrs it took me.

[SunriseH2OSkier]

Looking back at this my advise to anyone considering doing a cable replacement is get someone else to do it !!

Or disconnect the rear end and hacksaw off the final two feet (the solid part and the nut) and tie / tape rope to the remaining part. I think doing that the replacement job could be completed in under 45mins, rather than the almost 3hrs it took me.

I wouldn't advise anybody this based on my experience. Took me under an hour last summer doing my RLXi, didn't have to pull the driver seat or hack off the end of the cable. Indeed the most difficult part was getting that last section of the cable out of the floor under the helm, but a little patience goes a long way. If you are at all mechanically inclined, I say tackle it yourself. If not, then find a friend who is to help you, if you don't have any friends, then go to the dealer.

Edited April 5, 2007 by SunriseH2OSkier

[electricjohn]

Why did you have to replace your cable on an '03?

[SunriseH2OSkier]

Why did you have to replace your cable on an '03?

Still don't understand why it happens, but mine tightened up so much that it had to be done. I had a '78 Ski Supreme that still hadn't had a steering cable problem when I sold it in 2000. Just luck of the draw, I guess.

[SacRiverRat]

Replaced my 02 steering cable last year.. it happens - around here, seems to be a common replacement item, and no way to lube the thing.

Sure is nice once you replace it

[Pistol Pete]

FWIW,

If you have a decent grease gun, you can get right angle adapters for the end of the hose on the grease gun to accomodate tight areas. Third product down here: (available at good auto parts stores)

http://plews-edelmann.com/brochure.cfm?bro...rchplewsPopular