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Indmar Monsoon 335 idle surging when warm?


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Hey guys, 

 

Fairly new Malibu owner and couldn't be more excited! But noticed something odd the past couple times I have taken it out. When the engine is cold it runs and idles perfect...when it is warmed up it will surge the rpms in idle...then eventually stall. I know there are countless threads about this but I feel inclined to post and maybe get some more ideas. I have replaced the IAC, TPS, cleaned out entire throttle body. Any ideas what it could be? 

Boat is a 2003 wakesetter with 335 indmar monsoon. 

Other than the idle surging it runs perfectly, 

 

I have also been told to run my blower constantly when the boat is on, something I never did with my old bayliner and have yet to do with the malibu. 

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23 minutes ago, MadMan said:

Just a guess, maybe a vacuum leak.

Going to give that a shot, I do hear almost like a hissing/air loss right after i kill the engine

 

 

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  • 1 year later...

Hi

I am having the same issues with my 04' wakesetter. i can run the boat all day with no issues however if the boat is stopped and engine turned off this is when the issue arrises. Just wondering if anybody had an idea of the problem. Seems to be getting worse as the temperature rises. Currently 40 degrees c in north QLD Australia. A thought is maybe an air lock in the fuel system, lines expanding??. Once the boat cools down it runs perfect

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I haven't updated the other thread on this, but my buddy recently told me that he changed the module under the distributor cap and it completely cured the problem. 

He had changed the module about two years ago, so he hesitated to change it again.  He's glad he did it.

Be sure to use the proper heat transfer paste. 

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On 12/4/2019 at 12:09 AM, justgary said:

Be sure to use the proper heat transfer paste. 

Quoted only because nobody seems to read it.  If you don't use the paste, you'll end up buying another one.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Are you talking about the ICM?

On 12/4/2019 at 2:09 AM, justgary said:

I haven't updated the other thread on this, but my buddy recently told me that he changed the module under the distributor cap and it completely cured the problem. 

He had changed the module about two years ago, so he hesitated to change it again.  He's glad he did it.

Be sure to use the proper heat transfer paste. 

 

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2 hours ago, iliketoski said:

Are you talking about the ICM?

 

Whatever you want to call it, but yes, the ignition module inside the base of the distributor, under the cap.

We are still puzzled by the fact that he could start his engine cold and it would run perfectly all day as long as he didn't turn it off and restart it warm.  I can't think of a reasonable failure mode in this module that would do that, but he can now restart his engine and it works fine.

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On 12/16/2019 at 9:06 AM, justgary said:

We are still puzzled by the fact that he could start his engine cold and it would run perfectly all day as long as he didn't turn it off and restart it warm.  I can't think of a reasonable failure mode in this module that would do that, but he can now restart his engine and it works fine.

This is exactly how my 2003 was acting in the summer.

 

24 minutes ago, powbmps said:

I was having an issue with idle surging, but not actually stalling on my 2003.  Replacing that same piece seemed to fix mine as well.

Do you happen to have a part number for the replacement?

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On 12/16/2019 at 11:06 AM, justgary said:

Whatever you want to call it, but yes, the ignition module inside the base of the distributor, under the cap.

We are still puzzled by the fact that he could start his engine cold and it would run perfectly all day as long as he didn't turn it off and restart it warm.  I can't think of a reasonable failure mode in this module that would do that, but he can now restart his engine and it works fine.

Solid state (no moving parts) electronics initially act up once they get warm or hot.  This is usually a precept to eventual total failure.  Also your ECM will change cranking engine timing via that module from input from your engine's coolant temperature sensor.

Edited by electricjohn
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On 12/26/2019 at 2:11 PM, electricjohn said:

Solid state (no moving parts) electronics initially act up once they get warm or hot.  This is usually a precept to eventual total failure.  Also your ECM will change cranking engine timing via that module from input from your engine's coolant temperature sensor.

Of course, but it would get warm and run fine all day.  Shut it off and crank it again immediately and it would start surging.  That's not a heat failure. 

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