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Bad design - prop shaft removal


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I have to say... why is there so little space between the prop coupling to the transmission and the egress from the hull on my sportster? Simply poor design in my opinion. Took quite some time to fashion a tool to get that damn shaft nut out. It’s not pretty but I thought I’d share for giggles... and yes, it worked!

 3SuJInJ.jpg

  • Like 3
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Push the coupler as far back as possible and sneak in a socket.  Just did this on mine.  Came with a lot of yelling, but surprisingly no blood.  

But yes, what a PAIN!

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8 hours ago, Dampsquid said:

I have to say... why is there so little space between the prop coupling to the transmission and the egress from the hull on my sportster? Simply poor design in my opinion. Took quite some time to fashion a tool to get that damn shaft nut out. It’s not pretty but I thought I’d share for giggles... and yes, it worked!

Manufacturers have to work with the power package they are provided from the engine manufacturer.

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1 hour ago, saxton15 said:

Push the coupler as far back as possible and sneak in a socket.  Just did this on mine.  Came with a lot of yelling, but surprisingly no blood.  

But yes, what a PAIN!

I got a regular socket in there with the factory dripless shaft seal. The Glide unit was slightly larger and it wouldn't fit.

I regret not getting the SkiDim tool, but I had no idea that it existed.

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Oh I see.  I was actually putting a glide system in this weekend, so I had the old packing gland.  I tell ya, that nut was in bad shape when I finally got it out.  Had to do a good clean up on it.  The hardest part is getting the shaft to stop turning as you get the nut to break loose.

Edited by saxton15
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@saxton15:  to stop the shaft from rotating, use a couple of 2x4's to limit prop itself from spinning.  The wood is soft enough to avoid any prop damage.

@Dampsquid:  nice work on your home made tool, make sure you hang it on the wall for all your friends to see.  The other aspect due to prop angle required is overall engine height so the engine can't go too far forward.  It does certainly create a bit of a nuisance for shaft removal.  Not quite as annoying as the need to lift the engine in a late '60's Shelby Mustang KR500 equipped with a 428, the test drive afterwards is well worth it though. 

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To hang on the wall, I’d have to grind my crappy welds off, and do it again!

I picked up my prop yesterday, and a new strut. Reassembly starts this evening. Woo hoo!

Edited by Dampsquid
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  • 4 years later...
On 5/20/2018 at 11:03 PM, Dampsquid said:

I have to say... why is there so little space between the prop coupling to the transmission and the egress from the hull on my sportster? Simply poor design in my opinion. Took quite some time to fashion a tool to get that damn shaft nut out. It’s not pretty but I thought I’d share for giggles... and yes, it worked!

 3SuJInJ.jpg

Do you know the size of the socket that you used?

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2 hours ago, RebesMalibu said:

Do you know the size of the socket that you used?

Just needs to be bigger than the shaft. Pretty sure I used an 1 1/8 socket. Got the bolts snug, and used a heat gun to heat up the coupler a little. Popped right off.

673797F5-9B42-4F0C-A847-20D085620D79

 

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11 minutes ago, BlindSquirrel said:

Just needs to be bigger than the shaft. Pretty sure I used an 1 1/8 socket. Got the bolts snug, and used a heat gun to heat up the coupler a little. Popped right off.

673797F5-9B42-4F0C-A847-20D085620D79

 

I think I found on another thread that it is 27mm. You have tons of room. I only have about an inch between the flanges with the prop shaft pushed out against the packing seal nut. 
 

I think I will have to make a special tool as well unless somebody has one that they would be willing to loan me. I would of course pay shipping. 

  • Like 1
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Is a drip less shaft seal shorter in this dimension? I’m looking at cutting the hose and then replacing it with a shorter hose. If the drip less  is shorter, I’ll probably go that route. 
 

Edit: Mine is 6.25 inches for the dimension shown. 
370A0970-E570-4701-9976-C05CDB97CF6E.thumb.jpeg.a072577dfdd4744f83ad4d9b664bc222.jpeg

Edited by RebesMalibu
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2 hours ago, BlindSquirrel said:

The OJ dripless one I put on mine is 5 5/8 inches end to end. 

https://skidim.com/flex-gland-system-1-1-8.html

 

Thanks, I ordered it and the special socket from skidim. 

https://skidim.com/system-socket-1-06.html

The dripless seal alone won’t get me enough room to get a standard half inch drive socket and ratchet in there. I will be able to get the special socket with an open end wrench with the dripless seal.

Do you like your dripless seal?

 

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45 minutes ago, RebesMalibu said:

Thanks, I ordered it and the special socket from skidim. 

https://skidim.com/system-socket-1-06.html

The dripless seal alone won’t get me enough room to get a standard half inch drive socket and ratchet in there. I will be able to get the special socket with an open end wrench with the dripless seal.

Do you like your dripless seal?

 

Yep, the dripless seal works well. Really easy install. 

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