VDrive Packing Nut Shaft Nut Dripping - Packing Seal

[DylanR]

I wouldn’t think this is rocket science... the intake hoses are def in the way.. but there still should be enough room to break them loose. 

[formulaben]

I removed the hose from the v-drive on the port side so that I would have better access.  Luckily my ballast pump was out since I'm also upgrading the ballast system so I feel like I had much better access than normal, but even then it was tight.  My purpose-build wrenches from @Modsled1 definitely helped! 

[DylanR]

3 hours ago, formulaben said:

I removed the hose from the v-drive on the port side so that I would have better access.  Luckily my ballast pump was out since I'm also upgrading the ballast system so I feel like I had much better access than normal, but even then it was tight.  My purpose-build wrenches from @Modsled1 definitely helped! 

Can you share a pic of those 

[Bill_AirJunky]

In case anyone is looking for packing wrenches, one of our members makes them. Curt's shop FB profile is here:  https://m.facebook.com/OBrepair/

[formulaben]

7 hours ago, DylanR said:

Can you share a pic of those 

I will...tomorrow for sure.

[DylanR]

Here is the vid... 

View My Video

let me know if you can’t see it. I’m not sure how to post the actual video to the forum. 

Edited May 6, 2018 by DylanR

[saxton15]

On 4/30/2018 at 7:21 PM, wdr said:

I had some 3/8 threaded rod from another project I used. That way I didn’t have to worry about running out of thread. Make sure you bring along some fairly substantial washers so it will be easier to turn the nuts on instead of the faces of the flanges. The Allen set screw for the shaft flange nut was 1/8 IIRC, bring the set JIC. The shaft flange nut was somewhere between 7/8 and 1 1/8, bring your whole socket set JIC. The shaft is 1 1/8, but the actual OD of the shaft where the shaft nut screws on is like 3/4. I used as much of the shaft thread as I could to pull the flange off. 1- I didn’t want to mess up the $450 shaft threads, 2- that thing is going to come screaming off and I didn’t want my $600 prop to smack the rudder. 😡 Hind sight being 20/20 it was harder for me than it had to be to separate the VD output flange from the shaft flange. I pried with a putty knife when I should of just wrapped the prop with a rag and given it a quick twist to separate it. My pain someone else’s gain. You will have to draw the prop shaft back to slide on the dripless housing. Be careful with the seal. I installed the housing first and then the seal. You will need snap ring pliers for the seal clip. The install guide is good, except it doesn’t talk about all of the cussing, bruising, blood, sweat and tears involved when working on a VD instead of a DD. 

Productive weekend getting things done.  Got the shaft disconnected and backed off the transmission.  I ran into the same issue with the VD and Shaft Coupler.  I was pulling on the prop just to get it to back off.  Ended up using a putty knife and pried it back.  Top tip would be to spray down the strut to help move things along.  Anyways I am not ready to install my dripless Glide Seal coming in this week.  Might even change the strut bushings while I'm at it.  I noticed the inside looks slightly cracked.  Might as well be fresh through and through.

Also, for those with the MTC screen issue.  I installed the retro-fit back up key kit this weekend.  Had I had someone to pass me tools instead of getting in and out of the boat etc, I would have been done in an hour or so. Took me 2.5 hours but she works and it is great insurance.  I have the install manual if someone needs it.  

[formulaben]

On 5/5/2018 at 6:22 PM, DylanR said:

Can you share a pic of those 

[wienrdog]

On 5/5/2018 at 2:16 PM, formulaben said:

I've seen this verbiage before and no offense to @wienrdog but it's a bad way to explain it because no matter if you are loosening or tightening, this would apply.  Imagine a wrench at the 9 o'clock position on the large nut; if you put a 2nd wrench onto the smaller nut at the 12 o'clock position and "move the handles toward each other" something happens...now do do the same with the 2nd wrench at the 6 o'clock position and the opposite will happen, but in both cases the wrenches are moving towards each other.  Might be what's happening with @DylanR.  It can be confusing given that you're above and behind the nut and almost doing it blind.

That's why I included the next sentence - Put them on so the thin nut's wrench will turn it clockwise towards the hull.  Only one of the scenarios you listed will do that...

[DylanR]

Any ideas to help apply more pressure to turn them? 

[lonestar]

I use a short (~24") 2X4 on one wrench. The 2X4 is vertical and barely has contact with the wrench. The second wrench is oriented such that it is jammed against hull or other parts and it does not spin. Then I apply downward pressure to the board. I think I had to hit it with rubber mallet. This entire exercise is not easy, as the wrenches constantly move and fall off nuts. It is way easier with a helper to apply pressure while you are holding both nuts in place.

PS - I don't have room for any other style of wrenches other than two of the custom listed above.

Edited May 7, 2018 by lonestar

[saxton15]

The first time I removed the packing nut, I held down the locking nut with one wrench, applying downward pressure on it.  Then took the other wrench and went on a 45 degree to the packing gland.  After much effort it finally broke its seal.  It wasn't easy and took me a good half hour or so, but I learned that I wouldn't tighten it like that ever again.  Kind of like the oil filter.  Do not over tighten. 

[DylanR]

Ok I had time to deal with this and with my bro in laws help... after removing the ballast pump... was able to get it loose. 

Bad thing it was pretty tight already so I turned it as far as I could which only moved it maybe 1/16” of an inch if that. 

Backed it into the water and without even turning it on it is pouring out like a school water fountain from the bottom... Literally.

So I am thinking I need to replace the wax rope. Where and what is the quickest way to buy this and get this done. At least now I have the nut loose. 

[saxton15]

Replace it with GFO Marine Packing.  https://www.amazon.com/Gore-GFO-Marine-Shaft-Packing/dp/B015HU7F1Y

You'll want to get yourself a pick set to remove the old layers of packing.  Follow this guide:

I'd also consider upgrading to a dripless system and be done with it.  No more sticking your head down there for adjustments and water in the bilge.  

[DylanR]

Can we concur the GFO 1/4” x 2ft is the right size for my 2010 ????

[DylanR]

Called Paul at Bakes they recommend 3/16” for my boat. They recommend the impregnated wax... not the Gore Tex. Call them with any questions they are always so helpful. 

 

https://www.bakesonline.com/boat/parts/shaft-packing-impregnated-wax-cord-3-16.html